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pg octane 900.5 repair


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tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
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Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 7:37 AM / IP Logged  
That looks almost identical to the Planet Audio i am working on...! Where did you get the z44's from...? Best i found was 20 of them for $20 before shipping...?! I know you told me mouser,digikey idiot...Was just curious...!
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ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
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Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 7:55 AM / IP Logged  
Looks like there's four of them, 2 are labeled F1B2CCI-641 and the other 2 are F1B2CAI-639.
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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  
Those would be them.  I have never seen those numbers, but I can assume that the CC is for common cathode and the CA is for common anode.  Remove only the 2 on the power supply of the one that is blowing the fuse.  And make a note so they go back in the same location.  That part is critical.  Since you can not cut these legs off, it is safer to apply as much solder as you can to each of the 3 joints on the component.  Then lay your iron across all 3 connections and heat them all up at the same time.  The tab of the transistor will get too hot to hold, use some small pliers only to keep from burning your fingers.  Do not apply much pressure with the pliers, when the joints get hot enough, the part will easily come out of the board.
Once you get the diodes out, clean up the solder joints and make sure none are touching.  Power it up with the single 5 amp fuse, check the voltage across power and ground.   If the fuse does not blow, there is a problem with the output section.  If the fuse still blows, you need to follow the trace from the left ldg of the 44s to the resistor, then out of the resistor to a transistor, what is the number on that transistor.  The same trace may go to a second transistor what is the number on that transistor also?
ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 12:34 PM / IP Logged  
Allied? I think, they are in Washington, oh got receipt here, alliedelec.com   I think it was $12 with shipping. For everything. Took forever to get here Fed-Ex ground.
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ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 1:41 PM / IP Logged  
fuse held, 10.41v (which is equal to the battery voltage) and the transistors are A1266, K-620\
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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 3:14 PM / IP Logged  

Read the second paragraph before you take the amp apart to check for bridged solder joints on the bottom of the board.

We seem to still have a problem at the output transistors.  Check and make sure you do not have a bridged solder joint on one of the outputs you replaced.  Check the top and the bottom of the board.  Also check to see that you did put them back in the right spot.  In order to check this, the middle leg of one of the rectifier diodes will show a dead short between the middle or the right leg of the outputs.  The CA diode will be connected to one and the CC will be connected to the other.  You may have to pull the clamps off of the 4 channel part and verify which output is connected to which diode.  They will be the same on the part of the amp we are working on. 

Before you do anything else,  run the amp for a few minutes to see if the heat sink is heating up on the supply you worked on.  Make sure you mount it back into the sink.  If there is a problem with the drivers, the 44s will heat up on that side before they heat up on the other side.  After you leave it on for a bit and determine that it is not heating up, check for shorted solder joints on the outputs.  Also check the resistance of the rectangular concrete looking resistors near the outputs.  Now set your meter to the diode test function and check for shorted driver transistors near the outputs you changed.  Check all possible combinations of those legs.  If you get any readings below .300, check the same transistor on one of the other channels of the amp.

ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
I wanted to run by ya, we still have the tip36 transistors, I am not sure if we need em. They sit next to the heatsink we presumed to be the power supply transistors for the sub(page1). If they're irrelevant then I'll proceed.
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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 20, 2009 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  

After you test for heat with the diodes still removed, at least remove the 36s, they may be leaking, Since you have them I would replace them.  They are rated at the same current as the 35s, they went through the same abuse as the 35s, they may have survived but could be weak. 

ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 19, 2009 at 10:11 PM / IP Logged  
OK, I just got it all put back together, tip36's changed, and powered it up with all 5a fuses and they all held. So now, I got the proper size fuses in and I'm wondering if that means it's ok to give it a run.
This is what I do for FUN!
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Platinum - Posts: 13,667
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: November 20, 2009 at 12:21 AM / IP Logged  

We are getting close.  But just to be safe, power it back up and leave it on for about 5 minutes.  You need to monitor the heat sink the entire time to see if it is getting warm.  No Speaker wires and no RCA jacks.  After 5 mnutes you should begin to feel it warming slightly.  If it is getting hot you may want to stop.  If it is only getting a few degrees above ambient, connect speaker wires and RCA cables and try playing it.  With the 5 amp fuses, it will only play at a very low volume, turn it up until you can barely hear any audio.  Walk areound the vehicle listening carefully to each speaker.  If they all sound free of distortion,  gradually turn the volume up until you blow the fuses.  If all sounded good until the fuse blew, Cross your fingers and insert the proper size fuses.  Play it again and see what happens.

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