2010 ford fusion, viper 5901

there is no advantage of using the 2 12 volt wires at the SJB,  go to the battery if you want, the SJB 12 volt wires can handle what you are connecting to them

Well I finally got around to wiring up the ignition wires. Four connections at the ignition switch: Ignition wire(Viper and Fortin), Accessory wire & Starter wire. On the starter wire I only went with the Violet (starter side) wire. Cons: I lose the starter kill and anti-grind by wiring this way. Pros: Don't have to sever the cars starter wire and a splice repair would not be needed if ever wanted to remove system and although unlikely, a malfunction in Viper unit can't leave my wife stranded. I know its kinda silly to not want to sever the wires but I'd rather not compromise the vehicles wiring harness. I also connected the two Fortin bypass wires RX and TX to the transponder connection.All connections were soldered, used heat shrink to seal and were loomed.  I need to hook up three 12 volt constants to battery or SJB, hood pin, brake pedal input and the blue wire from the Fortin to the correct neg. output from the 5901 and I should be able to fire this puppy up.     Like I said before, I'm doing this to hopefully help others with a Fusion/Milan install. I know I'm going to need more help myself before its over. If you guys see any mistakes please let me know and I'll make corrections. Thanks, and I'll update as progress occurs.

Two shots of the SJB feed.

Thanks for the clarification.. I fabricated a bracket for the siren tonight, so that I could put it where it needed to go. I had to take the battery out to get a good look at the firewall for the siren & hood pin feed. Now that its out, I think I've talked myself into the battery feed again. I've never had a car with the engine bay as packed as this one. Got the 3.5 V6 and it is shoe horned in there. Surprisingly, there is a lot of room under the instrument panel. I appreciate your quick reply. Happy New Year!

I finally have everything wrapped up under the hood. Fabricated mounting brackets for the siren and hood pin and got them installed. 8 gauge wire fused at 60 amps from + battery cable and 12 gauge wire from - battery cable pigtail/body mount. All wiring soldered, loomed and ran into cabin through grommet in plastic firewall plug. I am about to start on the H1 harness from the Viper 5901. I have a  question I could use some help with. I know that I won't be using the H1-9 BLACK/ white Dome light supervision wire. I also won't be using the H1-10 WHITE/ blue Turbo Timer wire. My question is in regards to the H1-4 WHITE/ brown Light Flash Isolation wire.  Does my vehicle have this multiplex circuit? It doesn't seem to state it anywhere I can see on the install sheet.  The sheet has parking lights listed twice. Once as - and again at +. Under the negative listing the sheet does state "may need to interrupt the headlight switch ground wire when triggering this wire. It is BLACK/ purple at the headlight switch. 10 pin plug, pin 3. See tech doc 1096 for wiring information'. Anyone know what tech doc 1096 states? Thanks for your replies.

if your install lists this for the negative trigger wire, if you will be using this wire, chances are you will need to isolate from the stalk, just cut the wire in half, the side from the stalk to the WHITE/ brown and the other side to the white  parking flash wire,commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

Finished up the remote start portion of my install tonight. Fired right up. This may be the longest install in history, but I'm in no hurry, as this is a car we only drive on the weekend. I'll post more install pictures soon. Quick question for you pros. I ran a feed from the battery to a terminal post under the dashboard. All my 12v connections are powered from this post. Two from the H3 heavy ignition harness (actually three, went ahead and wired up the flex relay lead even though it wasn't needed at this time. I just left the fuse out of it.) One from the H1 Viper control unit and One from the bypass module (W2W). My question is; what amp fuse would you go with on the 8 gauge wire from the battery? The wire came with an inline fuse holder and a 60 amp fuse. I don't think it would pull anywhere near that much amperage. My cars ignition wires are very small compared to the Viper's harness wires and I'm sure they must use relays for all of them. I'm thinking a 40 amp fuse would be better. Any opinions? Thanks

Here is another question. (Still haven't heard any opinions on the fuse yet.)           Trunk pop..........I unplugged the connector on the rear of the trunk release switch. Testing was done with connector unplugged. It has three wires. Yellow/Brown shows +12volts. Purple shows no reading. Black shows ground. My install sheet states BROWN / Yellow (-). The RED / White trunk pop wire from the Viper H1/1  is a negative. Little confused here as how to procede. Do I need a relay to convert the negative output of the Viper to (+) and then wire that to purple?

monty862 wrote: Do I need a relay to convert the negative output of the Viper to (+) and then wire that to purple?

Nope. Meter that yellow/brown wire again (do so @ the SJB in the drivers kick). Only this time, while you have it metered, hold the trunk release button. Does it go to ground? If so just hook up your RED / white trunk pop directly to the wire and call it a day. As far as the fusing of your 8 gauge go's, it's really up to you. The viper has all of it's own fusing so you really are just protecting the 8 gauge from burning up. The 60 amp that it came with is fine, or you can use 40 if it makes you feel better lol