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alarm, 2006 honda civic


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged  
Er can't have the Terrible Twins arguing, Ted you did write 86 to constant, apologise to Darren, please, Scooter, diode bands towards alarm, I don't think you'd need a relay here. I'm doing a project car for someone at the moment, 4 x electroluminescent panels, + 2 small relays all running off the GWA line. So far haven't needed a relay.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 3:57 PM / IP Logged  

On the iDatalink module...  I am assuming that your module will be loaded with ADS-DLSL-HA firmware.  You will follow the Type 6 install guide.

You will connect the R/S's Lock/UnLock output wires to the iDatalink Lock/UnLock inputs.  The iDatalink module has outputs that are then connected to the cars Lock/UnLock wires at the back of the fuse box. 

Also note that the R/S's trunk output goes to the iDatalink module and the iDatalink controls the trunk thru data.  There is no trunk pop output from the iDatalink module.  However, that also means that the trunk pop will only work when the car is not running.

Soldering is fun!
scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  

Ok so here it is.  I got my answer from the above question, I think, according to the IDataLink website.  So based on that I've made my diagram and what appears to be the connections I need to make.  Now I know I'm probably wrong on some stuf and I need to make some changes but that's why I'm posting it here so I can get assistance from you guys before I do anything.  I do have some questions, however.

Q1:  There is a little confusion on the installation instrucitons for the alarm.  When it talks about the ignition harness and starter kill, the instructions say it's a blue wire that goes to Connector 7 (CON 7).  The only thing that looks like it goes into CON 7 is the Z pass touch.  Looking a little further into it, I see that it has a red wire on CON 8 labeled RED (-) Starter Kill Output.  So on the diagram that's what I did was put the RED (-) Starter Kill Output to the 85 terminal on the Starter Kill Relay.  They both state it goes on #85 so that's why I made the change.  My question is, can someone please verify that this is correct? 

Q2:  Also on CON 8 there is a "YELLOW: (-) Rearm Output wire.  I have no clue as to where this would go to.  The description under it says "This wire provides a 0.7 seconde pulse when the system is armed.  Also, once the vehicle has successfully started after remote start, this wire will proved a 0.7 second pulse."  So again I can't figure out where this one goes.  Can someone shed some light to this one please?

Q3: Also on CON 8 there is a "GREEN: (-) Parking Light/ Aux 2 Output" wire.  Should I run the 2 530T modules off this one, and then run the 529T module off the Aux 1 output or does it matter? 

Q4:  This one has to do with the 530T's and the 529T's "Gray (-) Output During Activation" wire.  Do I need this?  Should I just ground it with the other wires?  Does it need a relay, and if so what wire am I using to run the relay?  If  I'm looking at it correctly, is this the way the relay should run?

85 - (-) Disarm Output wire from the alarm

86 - (+) 12V Constant (Fused)

30 - (-) Chassis Ground

87A - (-) Output During Activation wire from 530/529 modules

I think that was all I had for questions for the most part.  I'm axious to have you guys look at this so I can make my changes. 

Thanks for everyone's help. 

https://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/FINAL%20INSTALL/AlarmRemoteStartDiagram1.jpg

scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged  

kreg357 wrote:
Also note that the R/S's trunk output goes to the iDatalink module and the iDatalink controls the trunk thru data.  There is no trunk pop output from the iDatalink module.  However, that also means that the trunk pop will only work when the car is not running.

So should I not use the idatalink for the trunk and just use the wire out of the alarm.  Really it's not that big a deal to open it when the car's off.  If I'm in the car I use the handle inside anyway. 

scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 4:35 PM / IP Logged  
BTW, I've got all my equipment now!  I need to get diodes still and a couple relays, but other than that I've now got the alarm, both 530T's, the 529T, the idatalink ADS-DLSL CA2 module, and the idatalink usb cable.  So I'll go get my diodes and relays sometime this weekend, then when we get this diagram all worked out, I'll be ready to start. 
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 6:00 PM / IP Logged  

Just to clarify about the trunk release.   Do you have factory remote keyless entry?  If yes, does the factory FOB have a trunk release button?  The Civic LX does not.  The EX and SI does.  The R/S and iDatalink module will only pop the trunk if you can do it with the factory remote.  ( There is a solenoid in the trunk lid on those models.  The LX uses a mechanical cable/latch to release the trunk. ) 

If your car has the remote trunk release feature, if you hook the R/S to the iDatalink as per the instructions, the R/S FOB will pop the trunk when the car is not running.  If the car is running or remote started, it will not pop the trunk.  The factory FOBs work the same way as a safety precaution.  Some installers run the R/S's trunk release output directly to the cars trunk release wire to allow the trunk to open whenever the R/S's trunk button is pressed.

Soldering is fun!
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged  

howie ll wrote:
Er can't have the Terrible Twins arguing, Ted you did write 86 to constant, apologise to Darren, please, Scooter, diode bands towards alarm, I don't think you'd need a relay here. I'm doing a project car for someone at the moment, 4 x electroluminescent panels, + 2 small relays all running off the GWA line. So far haven't needed a relay.

No need for apologies! It's all kool! Personally i also have run quite a number of lights and relays from that same GWA wire! Never had any issues!

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 25, 2010 at 11:44 PM / IP Logged  

Ok so I will use the trunk pop wire from the alarm and not use it from the idatalink.  No problem.  I'll utilize the diodes for the modules. 

So does everything else look kosher on the diagram or has anyone been able to look at that yet?  What about the questions I've asked?  Anyone have any input on that stuff?  Again I thank you guys for your information and help with this.  I'm trying to do as much as I can with research and common sense, but some things I'm just not sure about, even after researching it! 

scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 26, 2010 at 10:36 AM / IP Logged  
So I went online and looked around and I managed to get a copy of the installation manual for my alarm that I have now in the car.  I'm going to go and confirm wire colors that everything is hooked up to now, and then do a cross reference and compare that to the ZN502 installation manual.  That should get me real close to where I need to be. 
scooter99 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 26, 2010 at 2:41 PM / IP Logged  

On the 529T sunroof module, can someone please varify my wireing.  I have the (-) Activation In Side 1 going to the Ground When Armed.  Then I have the (-) Activation Input Side 2 and the (-) Out Activation Side 2 going to the (-) Disarm Output of the Alarm.  Then I have the (-) Out Activation Side 1 not going anywhere.  Is that all correct or can someone please direct me on this one?

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