trying to find reason for small fire

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Security and Convenience / trying to find reason for small fire (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Page Next Page > < Prev Topic Next Topic >

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 18, 2010 at 10:35 AM / IP Logged

Sorry, mistake, 5.1 is the US version, 5.5 is the UK version, overall the same product, my other comments about relay failure still stand.

r1_pilot

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: April 15, 2010

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 18, 2010 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged

The harness is $350 from Honda, the whole dash has to be removed. Right now I am on the fence as to whether I reinstall the alarm or just swap the harness for a brand new one. If you look at the last picture, everything is removed from the car in order to remove the dashboard.

i am an idiot wrote:

I guess that the next time I hear of a dealership wanting to charge someone 1200 dollars to replace a wiring harness, i should point out the factory approved repair method.

r1_pilot

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: April 15, 2010

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 18, 2010 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged

howie ll wrote:

Sorry, mistake, 5.1 is the US version, 5.5 is the UK version, overall the same product, my other comments about relay failure still stand.

Howie II,

The alarm was installed by a DEI dealer/approved installer. He was highly reccomended, even though now I doubt he did much of a good job.

If you can send those instruction to me via email, I would really appreciate it. r1pilot@gmail.com is my email.

Do you think swapping the wire to a thicker gauge would help? I too think there was excessive current going through there. The funny thing is that the connector melted before the wire. I guess the connector's insulation melts at a lower temperature than the wire insulation ...

I have to drive this car 6000 miles to California and back and would hate for this problem to crop up in the middle of the trip. Thats why I really want to get to the bottom of it, or else swap the harness and just get rid of the alarm altogether.

Thanks,

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,667

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: April 18, 2010 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged

There is no way that harness needs to be replaced. That comment was directed at the factory approved method of repairing the harness. Trust me, if you solder it in the method I suggested, and use proper size wire, there is no way you will have any trouble with it. The small wire was your problem.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 19, 2010 at 2:43 AM / IP Logged

All you need to do is to remove those butt connectors, solder and sleeve those wires together. The black wires on the on the UK version are 2mm+ = 10-12 gauge, more than adequate. Remember on the UK Cat 1 versions I'm doing starter and ignition virtually every time* and as I showed Mr I. in an email, I always use that method and never had any problems. Those wires are rated at a constant 30 amps EACH, your ignition switch gets a 50amp fuse to handle EVERYTHING. If those butts weren't crimped with a proper crimp tool i.e. ratchet action in excess of about $70 to buy, the movement and vibration would cause arcing etc. Strip the looms and look for any shorting across the cables. A loose sliver of wire can do the damage.

* On UK Focus BMW and some others cutting the ignition also kills the starter so I only cut the ignition. As I said before I've had problems with the internal relays also causing the arcing effects but that shows up at the AG's white plastic junction box, not the ignition lead joins if done correctly.

Velocity Motors

Moderator - Posts: 12,488

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

This member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.

This member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.

This member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.

This member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.

Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: April 19, 2010 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged

My suggestion would be to remove the system completely, re-install another system, solder your conncections and if your wanting to reinstall the ignition kill, install it in a location that is easily accessible by you but still having it very well hidden.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Search for other posts by Velocity Motors

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 19, 2010 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged

The fact that you can be driving down the road and suddenly lose ignition power points to a loose connection (poor crimp). Loose connections create resistance, resistance creates heat.

If you are connecting large high current wires in a vehicle environment the splice should be properly soldered. Crimp connections have two weaknesses - vibration and corrosion.

As Howie said as well if the installer wasn't using the right crimp tool there is a good chance of a failure.

I would simply cut out the crimps, solder them, then keep an eye on the wiring and monitor it to see if it gets warm at all. If it does, the wire size is too small.

Kevin Pierson

r1_pilot

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: April 15, 2010

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: May 19, 2010 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged

After a whole month, I finally finished the installation. I do not have much time to spend on the car and I wanted to do this right. I wish you guys would have seen this installation ... I am amazed at how some people go through life having such low standards regarding their work ethic.

Anyways, everything but the siren works. I checked the connections and they are all fine. My only concern is that in order to feed the wire through the firewall grommet, I cut it and then soldered back together inside of the car. Did I screw up when I cut the wires? I know the connections are fine, but I am not sure whether by cutting the wires I somehow rendered the siren useless. Maybe the added resistance due to solder?

This is an avantguard 5.1 G5 installed in an S2000.

Thanks for the input.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: May 19, 2010 at 11:54 AM / IP Logged

Not that, if it has the back up battery Siren 4 wire lead like the UK 5.5, I cut the lead all the time to shorten it!

r1_pilot

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: April 15, 2010

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: May 19, 2010 at 12:09 PM / IP Logged

Yes, it has the 4 wire siren with the battery backup.

I will check continuity again. Thanks,

< Prev Page Next Page >

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.