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viper 5701 door lock and unlock only


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smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 12:51 PM / IP Logged  

I am a DIY installer not a Professional, and not wanting to offend you, but, Do you have the Installation Guide for this remote starter?  If not, it is available in the download section of this web site.

If you look at a posting to you from chev104275 on May 16th, the wires you need to check, verify, (with a DMM) and use for the heavy gauge harness were in that posting.

viper 5701 door lock and unlock only - Page 4 -- posted image. Battery YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
viper 5701 door lock and unlock only - Page 4 -- posted image. Ignition 1 RED / LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
viper 5701 door lock and unlock only - Page 4 -- posted image. Accessory 1 GRAY / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
viper 5701 door lock and unlock only - Page 4 -- posted image. Starter 1 RED / LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

 On your Heavy Gauge Harness, 

H3/1 should go to the RED / LIGHT GREEN

H3/2 not used---H3/7 Not Used-----H3/8  Not Used

H3/3 should go to the GRAY / YELLOW

H3/4 and H3/5,  you seem to have those figured out  ( to the RED / LIGHT BLUE)

H3/6 and H3/9 should go to YELLOW (Constant 12 volt source)

AND SOLDER THOSE CONNECTIONS!!   Good Luck.  Hope this guides you to a finished install.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 16, 2010 at 1:35 PM / IP Logged  
Damn, I wish I had looked back through the post. That's what happens when you try and do a project and can only work on it once a week. No constant flow of brain power. I'm sure that's what I need to verify. It looks like one trip under the steering column and I should be there.
Thanks for pointing out the error of my ways. Everyone has stress, but mine has been extremely high in the last couple of weeks. I won't bore anyone with the details of that. This is not a "counseling" forum. :)
Thanks again for the redirect. Hopefully, I'll get it going this evening. Have a blessed day.
Hunt4Fun
hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 6:11 PM / IP Logged  
I wanted to post a thank you to everyone. I appreciate both your wisdom and patience. The alarm and power door locks work great. When programming for Automatic mode, I get all of the response chirps as expected, but press Remote start and "BUZZ" and then the 7 light flash (still in Manual Mode). I went back and checked my connections and soldered everything together. What I have works great. I'm not sure that there is anything I can do besides take it to a professional and have him look it over.
Thanks again,
Hunt4Fun
bsbdoa 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 4:14 PM / IP Logged  
hunt4fun wrote:
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT not connected
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT Connected to 12v in steering column
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT connected to siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH -ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay not connected
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND connected to ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT connected to door "open" wire
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT not connected
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT connected to ground [u][i[] remove this, if you are using a positive trigger you do not need this wire at all.[/u][/i]
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT not connected
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT not connected
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT connected to parking lights at the headlamp switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT not connected
Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector not connected
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 LIGHT GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H3 Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT connected to power door locks relay and working
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT connected to power door locks relay and working
There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
Heavy gauge remote start, (H3)

10-pin connector

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT connected to 12v when key is in the RUN position.
2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 not connected
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT not connected                            [u][i]this needs to be connected if you want your fan/ climate controls to function during remote start. it is grey / YELLOW at the ignition switch[/i][/u]
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) connected to starter side of the start wire
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) connected to the key side of the start wire.
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT not connected                            [u][i]this needs to be connected to 12v constant yellow at ign switch[/i][/u]
7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT not connected
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY not connected
9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT not connected                           [u][i]this needs to be connected to 12v constant[/i][/u]
10 N/C N/C
Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT connected to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE connected to BLACK / YELLOW wire going to the tachometer. Verified by running and revving the engine while connected to a voltmeter.
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE connected to brake switch from the pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 connected to ground for now.                             [u][i]while this is grounded the starter will not function as it defaults to n/o and by grounding it your starter thinks the hood is open[/i][/u]
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER not connected
Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin not connected
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT planning to connect to LOCK relay                            [u][i]do not do this, in essance it would be the same as holding the lock button any time the car is running. if you want to have the car relock after starting use the (-) starter output otherwise turn on ignition controlled locks in the feature menu which depending on programing will lock the door when the car is started and unlock when you turn it off with the key[/i][/u]
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT

btw I am a professional installer and have done thousands of remote starters, someone like myself should be able to do this job in about an hour or two; making it a great truck to learn on. but just think logically about it. the starter is basically a bunch of relays with a controller.  the red on the heavy gauge harness are the input for a relay and the purple, orange and pink are outputs. and please solder and securely tape your connections no butt connectors or t-taps they are crap.

bsbdoa 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged  
i forgot to mention but if you do use the (-) start to trigger the locks on remote start be sure to diode issolate it otherwise your truck will crank every time you lock the doors
hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 7:44 PM / IP Logged  
bsbdoa, thanks for the info. I have not hooked up anything to automatically lock the doors since I found that it is a programming option. I disconnected the hood input that was grounded. Current status is as follows:
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT not connected
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT Connected to 12v in steering column
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT connected to siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH -ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay not connected
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND connected to ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT connected to door "open" wire
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT not connected
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT connected to ground Have not removed this yet. Next step.
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT not connected
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT not connected
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT connected to parking lights at the headlamp switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT not connected
Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector not connected AND not plugged into brain
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 LIGHT GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H3 Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT connected to power door locks relay and working
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT connected to power door locks relay and working
There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
Heavy gauge remote start, (H3)
10-pin connector
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT connected to 12v when key is in the RUN position.
2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 not connected
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Connected to 12Volt accessory
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) connected to starter side of the start wire
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) connected to the key side of the start wire.
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUTconnected to 12Volt constant
7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT not connected
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY not connected
9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT connected to 12v constant
10 N/C N/C
Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT connected to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE connected to BLACK / YELLOW wire going to the tachometer. Verified by running and revving the engine while connected to a voltmeter.
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE connected to brake switch from the pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 disconnected from ground
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER not connected
Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin not connected AND not plugged into brain
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT planning to connect to LOCK relay
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 8:17 PM / IP Logged  
Forgot to mention that the system will not accept any programming. I've tried to set it to Automatic mode, Manual and then Automatic Mode, automatic door lock with ignition. No luck. I'll check who are the pros in the area tomorrow.
hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 21, 2010 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged  
Here is the rest of the story. The issue with the remote start was a Ford issue, not a Viper one. There are two wires in the service manual that are HOT when the key is in the RUN position. Only 1 of them is also HOT in the START position. I switched over the PINK wire to the wire that is HOT in both positions and it works.
I stopped on my way home before this at a professional shop. The guy was able to program the unit for Automatic transmission and also programmed it for LOCK ONLY when the ignition is turned to RUN. My truck unlocks the door when you open it from the inside so I wanted the locks to LOCK ONLY. That is not happening yet, but I'll research that with a few searches. Regardless of what happens with that, I'm very happy that the unit is fully functional.
Thanks to all who contributed.
hunt4fun 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2010
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: June 22, 2010 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Ground the green wire then try. If found that when the purple (violet) door trigger wire wads connected on Vipers they wouldn't programme.
Just as a follow-up, grounding the green wire did prevent being able to program the unit except with a Bitwriter. Once we clipped that wire out of the ground, the system accepted the commands to LOCK ONLY on ignition.
So, it has taken 3-4 weeks off and on, $65 at the professional installation center, and more hours of work than I ever dreamed. But, the benefits outweigh the negatives. I understand everything about how my system works and if there is ever a problem, I'll have some idea how to correct it. I've "met" some nice folks who tried hard to help me here on 12volt. And I met a professional installer that is both knowledgeable and friendly.
So all in all, this job is about 50% knowledge and 50% pure determination.
Hunt4Fun
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