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viper 350hv, 516t, 508d


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chardc 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2010
Location: Saint Lucia
Posted: August 21, 2010 at 10:42 AM / IP Logged  

Sorry about the previous post, I did not read the instructions regarding image size. However, you can view the image via http://yfrog.com/f/n1alarmdiagramchardcj/

No diodes are in user currently, however two will be required for connections on the accesories going to the brain blue wire and another two will be required for accessories going to the brain on the orange wire.
I am having the issue with no voice being generated, no motion sensing and also, there is a soft chirp coming out of the siren when the car is disarmed (weird)

ChardC
chardc 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2010
Location: Saint Lucia
Posted: August 22, 2010 at 7:30 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, so far no one has responded. Desipte such, the connections above are accurate. I had to place a diode on the H1/1 orange wire with the anode side on my accessories. I didnt have a 1n4004 diode, so a 1n4006 diode sufficed. It seems during all my frustration, I connected the 516U main connecter badly, luckily I was not playing around and jsut tracing my steps because I may have damaged the circuitry and so forth. I also managed to get the white wire at the hazards switch. It only seems now that my 508D is the oonly outstanding issue, but as suggested from a previous post, it may just be faulty.

Quetions to wrap thing up.

Do I need a relay on the H1/2 white wire (-) for parking lights since I change the connection over to the hazards switch white wire (-)? My reason for asking is because it seems to keep the hazards on when armed.

ChardC
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: August 22, 2010 at 10:57 AM / IP Logged  
No you don't need a relay if you're using the negative trigger at the hazard switch. It's never happened to me before, have you tried a diode inline band facing towards the alarm side?
commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 23, 2010 at 2:58 AM / IP Logged  
I understand your frustration and have been there and done that..with trial and error. Time to refresh and start over here. I would like to help. Let's start with the original problem.. the mux port the 508d plugged into.. check the plug from the 508d and make sure the pins are in secure and not broke. check the prongs in the mux port of the 350hv and insure they are not bent or broke off.  have you adjusted both sensitivity dials on the 508d? doesn't the 516 come with a separate voice module speaker separate from the siren? what kind of vehicle is this..are you gonna use the starter kill relay ?
jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 23, 2010 at 3:01 AM / IP Logged  
One more thing....are your windows tinted with metallic tint.. and were the windows up when you originally tried testing the zones of the 508d?
chardc 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2010
Location: Saint Lucia
Posted: August 23, 2010 at 5:11 AM / IP Logged  

@t&t tech

I wil be isloating the indicators today with the diodes, but once more I will have to use the 1n4006 diodes as they're the only ones I have.

@jcs091570

The mux port on the 350HV worked fine when I connected an external Shock sensor, but it will not work right with the 508D. I had to wire the 508D to the H1 wiring harness as shown in the diagram on pg. 2 of this post. I've made up my mine that the 508D is faulty and needs replacing - the alarms triggers for no apparent reason to me - when there is actual movement around the vehicle it does not trigger  (weird). I do have the starter kill relay on and wired it up with the diode on the orange wire connecting it to the 350HV and 516U. You are also correct in regards to the 516U, but the brown wire is used to determine chirps when connected to the 350HV, The dipswitch of the 516U is set to 1,2 (off) and 3,4 (on). I currently have the green wire of the 516U going to the green wire of the 508D for warning triggers - but nothing happens when you bridge the out perimeter.

What about the factory adj. option on the 508D, can this be adjusted in anyway to help in troubleshooting?

Vehicle: Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 Sedan (Fully Loaded)

ChardC
jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 23, 2010 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  
Ok another Lancer..that will help since I own one myself and did extensive alarm work on it.  Do you plan to keep the 508d or scrap it and get another one? Don't mess the with the factory adjust. Was this item new in box when you got it?
chardc 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2010
Location: Saint Lucia
Posted: August 23, 2010 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged  

I will be ordering a new one soon, it was not new when I purchased it and paid a good 25US or more for it and when I received it, one end of the cable was cut (no mux port insert). I didnt get a chance to do anything today due to the weather, but wil try tomorrow.

ChardC
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 24, 2010 at 7:42 AM / IP Logged  
If your last post had been your first we'd have all saved time and trouble when I told you to bin it.
jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 25, 2010 at 1:16 AM / IP Logged  

Have you thought about parting with the 516 talking module? Honestly I think it is overkill..especially since you will have a 508d that gives warn away. It does the job for me. Personally I think people would laugh or even get annoyed by a talking alarm.  My 508d has discouraged more attempts and people than any device I know of...plus I get paged on my remote when the warn away is tripped.

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