2001 infiniti qx4 remote starter

I do apologize!  I in fact took a document from MS Word.  (Rich Text Document). 

I'll start with the Ignition 1 on the Vehicle: will this be connected to the

h3/1 pink (+) ignition 1 input/output

or

h2/14 pink (-) 200mA ignition 1 output

The ACCESSORY /HEATER blower 1 and accessory heater blower 2 from the vehicle: which one should i connect these to?

h3/3 orange (+) accessory output

or

h2/12 orange (-) 200mA accessory output

Thanks in advance.

Some of the wires on the H3 connector will supply the standard (+) ignition wires on your car.  Some of the H2 outputs are (-) 200mA and are there to control relays for addition circuits as needed.  H3/2, H3/6 and H3/9 all go to a suitable +12v constant source.

Basically, compare the wire guide list with what you actually find in the car and verify with a Digital Multi Meter.  The cars Ignition 1 circuit is listed as BLACK/ White (+) and would be connected to the Vipers' H3/1 Pink wire after you verify it with the DMM.  Bulldog suggests that your car has two Starter wires and two Accessory wires.  The Flex relay can be programmed for Starter 2 and H3/7 would be connected to the cars Starter2 wire.  The second accessory would be created using the H2/12  (-) 200mA Accessory Output and a fused relay.

There are a lot of wires to connect for a successfull install..........      

kreg357, thank-you very much for your reply and input.  I have some more questions.....

It Bulldog states that I must connect BOTH Starter1 & Starter2 wires to get enough cranking power.  Would I connect both to the h3/7 (+) ignition2 / Flex Relay Output?  Also, how do I program the flex relay?  With there being 2 Accessory Wires would the accessory 1 from the vehicle be connected to the h3/3 (+) accessory output?  Should I use a 12vdc single pole double throw relay for both accessory connections?

With the parking light red (-) & parking light blue/black (+) on the vehicle; would they be connected to the h1/4 parking light isolation wire (pin 87a of onboard relay) and the h1/11 parking light output of the alarm harness? 

I know that with the Power Lock yellow (TypeB) and the Power Unlock light green (TypeB) from the vehicle, it goes to Door Lock 3-Pin connector.  My question is: what does (Type B) mean?  and with the unlock it states that it requires a Double Pulse.....How would I achieve this?

With Door Trigger from the vehicle: Driver Door GREEN/ red (-), Front Passenger Door yellow (-), Rear Door RED / blue (-), it says to use all three.  Would I connect all three wires to the h1/6 Door Trigger Input (+) on the Main harness with one diode?

With the Domelight Supervision, it states to connect it to the Door Trigger with a #775 Relay??  is this correct?  would it be connected to the the driver door wires mentioned above along with the diode then to the relay?

I really appreciate your time, consideration and patience with this!

If you are serious in doing this install yourself, you should download the install guide from this site for your remote starter system.  Become very familiar with it.  The Viper 5902 is a sophisticated system and there is a lot to know, understand and do.  The Flex relay programming is shown in the Install Guide.

Next go to the AudioVox site and get their wiring guide.  http://techservices.audiovox.com/Login.aspx  Sign-up is free,  Compare that to Bulldogs' and then to the actual vehicle.  These are only guides and all wires should be verified with a Digital Multi Meter.  A wiring mistake can have major consequences.  ( Smoking a computer is expensive. )

This site has info on Door Locks, Relays and Diodes ( more reading and learning ).  Type B door locks are basic (-) locks that can be directly connected to the Viper.  The Viper has a programming option for Double Unlock Pulse.

Chose only one wire to activate the Parking Lights.  The Viper can do either (-) or (+) so pick the cars wire that is easier to locate and connect to.

Domelight supervision is probably not necessary if your dome light comes on with an UnLock from the factory remote.  Bulldog Part #775 is just a 30/40A SPDT relay.  They suggest it because their units output is the wrong polarity or can't supply the current draw.

The cars (-) door triggers would be connected to the Vipers' (-) Door Trigger Input.  All 3 or 4 door triggers would be connected to this wire, and each door trigger connection would need a diode (3 or 4 diodes - 1N4001 ).

H3/3 can go to ACC1.  The ACC2 wire would need a 30/40A SPDT relay to supply it.  Relay control would come from H2/12.

You will need a Digital Multi Meter, soldering gun, solder, electric tape, heat shrink tube, relay(s), fuse holder(s), automotive hand tools, diodes, etc to accomplish the install.  Also, your vehicle should have a transponder type ignition immobilizer.  Have you purchased a bypass module?  Something like the DEI PKALL should work.  http://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2001&make=Infiniti&model=QX4&ps=1&s=0

kreg357, again I must thank-you for all your input thus far....I have done all the reading as you stated and more.  I am feeling confident and positive so far with the instalation information.  (Thanks to you!)

I do have an PKALL from Xpresskit.  I also have some additional features which I have purchased.  I have an 530T Window Automation System.  I plan to connect this H2/3 (-) Auxillary Input to the H2/6 (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output of the Viper Alarm.  Do you think that I would need to connect the "(-) Output During Activation" ?  If it is required it says to use a P/N 610T Relay. 

520T Backup Battery.  Hookup blue (-) trigger output to the H1/7 (-) Trunk pin/Instant Trigger Input of the Viper harness

507M Tilt Sensor.  Orange (-) Turn-on Input to the H1/12 (-) 500mA Ground when armed output of the Viper harness.  Blue (-) Trigger Output to the H1/7 (-) Trunk pin/Instant Trigger Input of the Viper harness.

Viper SmartStart Module VSM100.  Hook-up to the Bitwriter Port of the Viper unit.

Sounds like the Deluxe system.      Research and knowledge is the key.  A lot of the information can be found in prior posts if you search on the right key words.

Good luck!

kreg357, thank-you once again for your support!  I will keep you posted as to my work-in-progress.  I am sure that I will have some more questions for you. 

Actually, one more......In your opinion, would you cut the wires than solder, or just splice them and solder?  (I was thinking of cutting them then soldering to make all connections have heat shrink tubing)....

IMHO...

Heat shrink tubing makes for a nice neat insulation job but a quality electric tape, like Scotch Super 33+,  properly applied works well.   You can even go so far as adding a tie wrap to secure the end of the tape and the 2 wires together.  While it is sometimes difficult, I don' t cut the wires.   ( Any junction is a possible problem.  Additionally, you lose some flexibility. )  Practice carefully removing a section of the insulation without cutting any strands.  Then, depending on the wire gagues being connected, you can "thread the needle" or tightly wrap and then solder and insulate.

There have been a few debates on this subject already.  For high currect draw and delicate data type circuits, you can't beat a good solder connection.