2002 trailblazer, alarm/remote start

We do not sell DEI products, nor am I even the least bit familiar with them.  Ignition wires on some newer vehicles are negative instead of the old traditional positive polarity.  I am only guessing that this wire will provide the ignition circuit with the proper polarity.  If your vehicle needs a negative ignition wire, ground this wire.  this will provide ground to the ignition wire.  If your vehicle requires a positive ignition wire, connect this wire to constant positive 12 volts.  This will provide your ignition wire with the required positive voltage.

This eliminates the need for a relay to convert the polarity if your vehicle needs negative ignition feed.

Above info is only an assumption.  Research it before you take my word for it.

howie ll wrote: From your questions you either aren't reading the manual properly or you shouldn't be doing this yourself. H3/1 is BOTH the ignition "sense" and the R/S power output to the ignition. H3/6 Red is the 12v+ CONSTANT input. So one input.

then clearly you agree that dei does not write their manuals clearly (because i know your not implying that im clueless). page 89 lists H3/ pink ignition1 (+)output (also ignition sense input) that's why i was saying it was weird that they list 2 ignition one inputs.

so if om reading this correctly now, 6 and 9 of H3 go to 12v ignition switched? i'm pretty sure i was not reading that correctly before. thanks leon

The red, RED / black and RED / white should all go to a constant 12V+, either at the ignition feed, fusebox supply or battery pos. They write their manuals clearly enough for professionals.

howie ll wrote: The red, RED / black and RED / white should all go to a constant 12V+, either at the ignition feed, fusebox supply or battery pos. They write their manuals clearly enough for professionals.

thank you, and im glad to see you agree about how they write their manuals. i went to college for 3 yrs for my hvac degree. and the stuff i can read for that would probably make alot of people's head spin. but because i went to school just to do that, its a no brainer. and while i was MECP certified years ago the equipment has become more complex every year and for the diy-er like myself it gets harder every year. so thanks for the help guys. going back out side to finish. no if i can just get the dang door locks to work.

I'm not even going to try to explain the locks to you, you have to look at DEI tech document 1053, see if it's here in the downloads section.

howie ll wrote: I'm not even going to try to explain the locks to you, you have to look at DEI tech document 1053, see if it's here in the downloads section.

no, i know how to do them the old fashioned way.i just never used one of these idatalink units before. so that part is gonna take a little while because if something doesnt work right im going to have to figure out were to start looking for a mistake. also now that i have a handle on this unit. it makes ense basically all the pink wires send voltage out and the red ones are voltage in. it makes sense now. maybe it was just the way they worded it. one thing i noticed i did wrong was i hooked the RED / white to the igniton 2 wire (white) and now i realize that dont go there. it should be pink ign 1        RED / white 12 v batt pink/white ign 2   red       12 v batt pink/blk dont need RED / blk   12 v batt again thanks

02 trailblazer. i finished my alarm/remote start install. its getting all the signals and it doesnt work. (viper 5701) i got one of those idatalink units, and this is my first time with one. i tried resetting it several times and the vehicle wont start and the door locks wont work. everything appears to be working. in getting 12 volts at the starter wire form the 5701, so that leaves me to believe everything is trying to work. but i get no cranking. since the locks AND no start, that is what leads me to believe its the idatalink not doing its thing. any thoughts? im thinking about getting an xko1 instead. but then i will have to wait till next weekend to finish her up. thanks leon

Which iDatalink bypass module? 

If it is a Multi unit ( ADS DL, ADS AL CA ) did you flash it with the  correct firmware?

Did you connect it tn the W2W mode and set the iDatalink module to Standard Mode ( 2 blinks )?

Did the module program to the Trailblazer as per the install guide?

Soldering is fun!

leonpiper69, your three topics regarding this installation have been merged into your original topic. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~1725 the12volt • Support the12volt.com