trunk actuator operated by alarm

On the Honda civic 2006, the trunk release wire is a green wire and the polarity is not negative but positive so you'll need a relay to release the trunk before your actuator pushes it up. The 528T is a pulse timer, meaning that when it receives the pulse from the r/s, it will sent the contact for a certain amount of time depending on how many seconds you have adjusted it. The other thing that I'm concerned about, is that actuator strong enough to re-latch the trunk lid closed and lock. If you really want to create that, we could exchange emails and I could draw you some diagrams for you to try. Sylvain Rochon

MECP security specialist

Tech support for remote starters

26 Years of experience counts

I'm here to help.

Just a thought to throw a spanner in the works, use a 529t instead of the 528ts. It will shut down automatically at end of play.

syl20rochon wrote: On the Honda civic 2006, the trunk release wire is a green wire and the polarity is not negative but positive so you'll need a relay to release the trunk before your actuator pushes it up. The 528T is a pulse timer, meaning that when it receives the pulse from the r/s, it will sent the contact for a certain amount of time depending on how many seconds you have adjusted it. The other thing that I'm concerned about, is that actuator strong enough to re-latch the trunk lid closed and lock. If you really want to create that, we could exchange emails and I could draw you some diagrams for you to try.

You're right. I looked at the trunk trigger/pin color. My mistake. I'll email you today. I'd love to get this figured out, and understand it. Thanks!

howie ll wrote: Just a thought to throw a spanner in the works, use a 529t instead of the 528ts. It will shut down automatically at end of play.

Either way. However it can be done I'm fine with as long as I have the channels to do it with. I was looking at this before actually and I got stumped with it. I'll look at it again, I saw a link on here or something that referred to it, and see if I can figure it out. My brain was fried yesterday.

The point was a 529 operates both windows up and has a load or end of travel thermal limit, thus no 528s or relays required, just wire to the motor wires as a window closer but play with the orange, ORANGE / black grey and grey/black wires to give you your up-down combination. I'm also worried about the latching part at end of play.

I'm a little concerned about that myself. I'm just trying to figure out if I'm more concerned with the thought, security wise, of the actuator only holding the trunk closed. I'm gonna have thousands of dollars of equipment back there and I want it as secure as possible. Yes there's a way on the 529T to do one window open and closed. That's why I got one for my sun roof. So I just need to check it out and see how to wire it. The actuator I'm looking at has a stop switch (I'm sure that's not what it's called) at both ends. Maybe it's called a limit switch?

Limit switch is the correct term.

Thanks! Ok so I've done what I need to do for work now. I'm going to get some info together and start drawing out this bad boy and I'll post it up. Thanks!

Ok so I've run across a diagram that I tried to download to here but can't seem to do it. Actually let me see if I can do it via picture. on the bottom left it says "alarm output - " and then has diodes coming off those to the 85 pin of one relay and the 86 pin of the other. Both of which are switch wires. Wouldn't this allow me to use the trunk pop button on the remote to open and close the actuator/trunk? This would then also allow me to use the aux 1 for my windows as well as aux 2 for my sunroof module. Can someone please confirm this?

No the dioded wires are from 2 separate aux outputs, not one. The diodes are correctly put there two protect the alarm-R/S.