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First Alarm, 97 Honda Civic


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zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 31, 2011 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks. I'll modify it to match your suggestion. I wonder why the manual specifiy these connections to the said terminals. Or I just may be interpereting them incorrectly. Otherwise, all other connections look fine?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,415
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 31, 2011 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
DEI Viper manuals are written for their trained, authorized techs and are ( IMHO ) deliberately vague.  Most wiring guides are suggesting one IGN and two ACC's.  Did you verify all the ignition wires with a DMM?
Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 31, 2011 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  
Everything kreg said is correct and I don't think you're listening that well especially with ref: to the red, RED / white and RED / black.
I've already said at least twice, that this vehicle has one starter, one ignition and two accessories. it doesn't matter which acc you nominate as the primary, just treat the other (wire it)as per second ignition.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 31, 2011 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry guys. I can't really test anything right now since the car is in pieces. I'll charge the battery and test with a DMM ASAP. Thanks for all of your replies. Together, we'll get my car secure!
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 01, 2011 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  

So here are my test results. They key cylinder actually has these outputs labeled!

Battery -white - no key, 12 volts

ACC - WHITE/ black - 12 volts when key turned to position 1, drops to 0v when starting

IG1 - BLACK / YELLOW - 12 volts when key turned to position 2, Drops to 8v when starting

IG2A - Yellow - 12 volts when key turned to position 2, drops to 0 when starting

Start - BLACK/ white - only 12 volts when starting

So I can see why you all say ACC and IG2A are the same. Maybe the "A" in IG2A is there to suggest it's an accessory also.

zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 01, 2011 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged  

Also, on the key solenoid, they're bare solder pads. Looks like I can just solder a tinned 10 gauge wire to what I need instead of splicing the wires. Are there any objections in doing it this way?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 02, 2011 at 2:21 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, no problem with soldering directly. And yes the yellow wire can be ignition 2 OR ACC 2 it makes no difference as long as you wire it up correctly.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 02, 2011 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged  

So in all of this madness, I wired in a fuel kill switch with the idea of it being triggered by the orange ground when armed output on the H1 harness. But...I'm going to have a problem with remote start if I keep it this way won't I? I'd have to disarm the alarm to remote start but that's pretty dumb. Is there a way around this with keeping a fuel kill relay?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 02, 2011 at 12:22 PM / IP Logged  
Replace your switch with this:
Use a relay thus:
85 = alarm GWA
86 and 87a feed to fuel pump from ignition
30 cut side to fuel pump
now do this with a second relay:
ground whilst armed to 87a
status output (GWR) from alarm to 85
constant live with a 3amp fuse to 86
other side of cut GWA wire to 85 on the original relay.
This will give you a fuel cut whenever the alarm is on except when you do a remote start.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 02, 2011 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, above post should have mentioned:
1N4004 diode in-line on both GWA and GWR wires just before the first relay, cathodes (bands) towards the alarm.
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