type r central door lock system

If the unit is operating properly, than connecting it to the battery would not be a problem. The brown and white wires are used to manually trigger the central locking, so it is unlikely to cause any battery drain issues. To determine if the unit is causing a drain, you need to check the current draw with an ammeter. At rest it should only draw several milliamps. Any more and you have a faulty unit. If you still have a battery drain problem, you will need to conduct a quiescent current test to see if you have an excessive current draw. Typically, it should not exceed 500 mA.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

wait, so im supposed to connect the brown and white wires too? because when i tried to connect them the system wouldnt work. when i left them alone the system worked fine

The brown and white in turn trigger either the lock or unlock, they are on the same circuit as the brown and white going to the door actuators. The would be connected to a keyless entry system or alarm if you installed one.

After rereading my response, I realize that I did not make myself clear. The brown and white wires that are not connected to the doorlock solenoids are used to trigger lock and unlock operation when they are grounded separately either by a switch or keyless entry system. The particular operation of each wire will depend how the solenoids are installed. In some cases, the ground outputs from a keyless / security system does not provide enough grounding to trigger an event. In which case you will need to install relays. Often times one of those wires will show ground depending on the position of the solenoids. When the solenoid is moved to the other position the other wire will show ground. You will only get ground on these wires if you have connected the black, white and brown wires at the solenoid.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

91stt..500ma from a 91 Corolla, I'd guess nearer 40ma! But then from the various questions asked I don't think our poster understood about draw tests anyway.

thanks for the replies. well i do understand testing with an ammeter, but at the moment i dont have one with me so i cant test it. my question is, do i need to connect those brown and white wires(which says its supposed to be connected the vehicle hull on the diagram i guess?) to anything or would they not make a difference? i will try to get an ammeter to test the voltage but i just want to make sure im connecting everything the right way in the first place

NO!!! Unless as previously stated by 91stt and myself, you either have an alarm or a keyless entry. If not tape them up, do NOT connect them to the vehicle ground. Hull? or is that from the Chinglish instructions.

howie good catch, I must have fat fingered it, it should have been 50ma. Thanks for keeping me honest :) The brown and white wires shown in the diagram are connected to a set of switches that go to ground (hull). Unless you want to operate the locks with an external switch or a keyless entry system, those wires should be insulated and carefully tucked away. If you connected the black, brown, and white wires at the solenoids than you do not need an external switch. The solenoids have built in switches to operate the central locking feature.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

With my fat fingers all I can say is thank the gods for spell-check! I don't think our poster is either understanding or listening, if you constantly grounded either brown or white you would simply activate the lock/unlock. The relay (although I prefer the MES blue relay, much better quality) SHOULD time out after three seconds, also if it didn't it would burn out the actuator before it flattened the battery.

sorry if i dont seem to be listening, but i dont fully understand all this so bear with me @.@ so are you saying the actuator wouldve been dead before the battery? does that mean the battery mightve coincidentally just died, or maybe the locks are defective and drawing too much power? should i just get another relay?