the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

do i need relay for door/trunk w/ ns 1074


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
afridihamid 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2009
Location: Canada
Posted: November 15, 2011 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  
I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima (automatic + factory alarm).
I would like to install a Nordic Start NS-1074 remote starter.
The door lock/unlock/trunk wires in the car all are (-) inputs and the remote starter unit outputs (-) so I don't need it for reversing polarity (unlock requires double pulse which can be programmed in the starter unit).
After quite some research I'm still unsure about whether or not I need relays for lock/unlock/trunk release. Does the NS-1074 have onboard relays for these features?
Link for the Remote Starter Install Guide + Wiring Diagram (Nordic doesn't have the guide online but the AS-1455 I've read is the same).
Link for the Remote Starter User Guide
Link for the 96 Maxima Wiring Diagram
Link for the Double Pulse Unlock Relay Diagram
Any help will be appreciated.
performance713 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: November 15, 2011 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged  
you don't need any relay in your door locks,as long as you can program the alarm for double pulse, but you will need it for the trunk release, the wire color its purple / YELLOW - pulse, you'll find it in the low driver kick panel.
hope this helps.
im ( J ) and car audio is my thang.. and if i can help i will.
afridihamid 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2009
Location: Canada
Posted: November 15, 2011 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, it does help.
Just so I know in the future, can you please tell me why I need a relay just for the trunk release in this case.
performance713 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2011
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: November 15, 2011 at 4:11 PM / IP Logged  
sure, its because most of the times the original system comes with a relay itself, so when you send the signal most of the times it will produce a feed back and will leave the trunk release stuck, and with the separate relay you'll prevent that from happening.
im ( J ) and car audio is my thang.. and if i can help i will.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 15, 2011 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  
The reason is that whilst your door locks require low current around 100milliamps to activate or trigger the lock and unlock relays, the trunk release is probably directly grounding a pos fed release motor and thus requires 8-15amps, so the current available has to be amplified or boosted by a relay.
Your trunk release aux won't handle this so wire to a relay thus. There are two ways and this method (to me ) is better.
Cut original release wire.
Switch side to 87a.
Trunk side to 30.
Aux via an inline 1N4004 diode*, band towards the RS to 85.
12v+ constant fused at 3amps to 86.
Very good ground to 87.
*Prevents relay coil feed back which will otherwise damage the RS.
afridihamid 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2009
Location: Canada
Posted: November 16, 2011 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged  
Is it suitable to use a 1N4001 diode instead? I ask because I already have some on hand.
Just to double check, is the 12v wire fused at 30 or 3 amps?
So this is what the relay should look like, correct?
do i need relay for door/trunk w/ ns 1074 -- posted image.
Again, thanks for the help Howie and J.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 16, 2011 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
Yes and your diagram is spot on.
afridihamid 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2009
Location: Canada
Posted: November 16, 2011 at 5:21 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry to bug you once more. You mentioned to fuse the 12v wire at 3amps. Is it 3 or 30amps?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 16, 2011 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
3, you're only powering the coil which is about 1.2 amps, it's the switching side, 87 and 30 which handles the power and they are rated at 30 amps.
Also as you are switching to ground, a fuse is not really necessary since it's on the solenoid's output not input, there's probably already a fuse of 10-20 amps in the fuse box covering the constant power to the solenoid.
jdtipper 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: November 16, 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 18, 2011 at 9:18 PM / IP Logged  
Question folks.
I see you recommend he puts the Diode on the 85 side.
Ive seen some people recommend Soldering it across from 86 to 85.
Will this serve the same function, or it more for suppressing Voltage Spikes and less for blocking 12V (+) going into the brain of the RS?
Or is all the same thing?
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Tuesday, April 16, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer