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2007 toyota highlander, remote start


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shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged  
Lock wire - Green
Unlock wire - Yellow
Lock Detection - Brown
These are located inside the door
2007 toyota highlander, remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.
aztec06 
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks awhole lot.. ok so i went installed it exactly the way it is displayed on the diagram... so The Unlock works great but the LOCK does Not work... it does not lock the doors.... does it matter if its all done right next to the door lock module or does it need to be done right next the lock cylinder?     
What can cause it not to Lock.. but it does unlock the door if i lock them with either the wireless remote or @ the door panel.   
anyone?!
toyo07 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 7:34 AM / IP Logged  
Hey guys, I have been installing my viper 5704 viper in my highlander and I did the directfax 1070, and the unlock works but the lock doesn't. Can anyone tell me or know why it doesn't lock.... I was messing with it and some how made it work to lock but then it wouldn't unlock.    Can anyone help out or know what the problem is.?   Thanks in advance.
metz35 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  
It will only lock if all the the doors are closed. If you are confident you did the relay lock detection diagram right.
aztec06 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged  
Yes ...I made sure all the doors were closed before tried it.. since it didnt lock im lost of why it doesnt.... do anyone know what the issue is?
metz35 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 10:40 AM / IP Logged  
04-up Highlander Brown Green Yellow **2Brown Purple Blue
**2. The passenger side wires are at the BECU behind the glove box, 2nd plug down from the top. They are:
lock - PURPLE in pin 8, unlock - LIGHT BLUE in pin 13, and lock detection - BROWN in pin 11.
NOTE: If you experience a no lock or unlock condition, check the resistance to ground on the keyless/alarm
module. The door lock outputs on all Directed systems are only 200 milliamps and any resistance may cause
the door locks not to work. If you meter less than .001 resistance and the door locks still do not work, use a
relay to increase the ground amperage or contact *******’s technical department for assistance.NOTE
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 10:40 AM / IP Logged  
Things to check-
-Are you using the GREEN/ blue lock/unlock harness for this?
-Make sure you have no diodes on the lock wire (not needed for this setup)
-test the blue lock wire to make sure you are getting a negative pulse when you hit lock on the viper remote
-double check you are using the correct wires in the door. Test them while turning the key in the door to the lock position
-Make sure you have constant 12v going to pin 85 of the relay
-Check the connections on the relay. Pin 87 should have no connection.
-Do you hear the relay engage or click when you press lock on the remote?
-Ensure you have a good solid chassis ground going to the viper system. You can't imagine the issues you get with a bad ground.
To lock, the relay has to engage to "break" the connection of the Brown lock detection wire AT THE SAME TIME as the Green lock wire gets the ground pulse from the alarm.
Something I would personally try also, (if i felt i had everything wired correctly), is to take a different wire and connect that directly to a good chassis ground and touch the other end to the blue wire from the viper harness. If the doors lock, then it may be a bad ground or a weak ground going through the blue lock wire.
aztec06 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 11:12 AM / IP Logged  
Yes im using the blue/green viper harness... made sure there is no diodes on the lock output.. actually green is the LOCK wire.. so im guessing thats the one I test for a negative pulse when the lock it pressed on the viper alarm? correct?
Ill test for a negative from the lock in a few with the key turned and 12v constant ill also check.. there was a ground wire connected to the 87 but took it off.. and I'll retrace the ground for the viper main unit system.
when you said take a different wire and connect that directly to a good chassis ground and touch the other end to the blue wire from the viper harness.. do you mean blue as in (LOCK wire)?? or unlock wire..? the viper harness color code is Green= LOCK OUTPUT   Blue=UNLOCK output.
I hope I didnt fry the lock on the viper module.
aztec06 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 11:27 AM / IP Logged  
Okay just was out there... heres what I've found... tested the Lock and when the doors are unlocked... the locked tested at 7volts... and when locked it also tested at 7 volts from the relay. I Locked with key and unlocked as well. I did try using a grounded wire and nothing happened to the relay...   DO you guys think its a BAD Relay? didnt engage how its suppose to.
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 11:57 AM / IP Logged  
I'm sorry for the wrong color on the Viper system. Yes I meant the green lock wire from the Viper. Do you have a 12v constant wire going to Pin 85 of the relay?
What I meant about a different wire was an unrelated spare wire just for testing. About 2 feet long or so, connecting one side to a ground connection (bare chassis metal under the dash) either on a screw or with a test clip to hold it in place. The other bare end of the test wire I would touch to where the green lock wire connects to inside the door. Either to Pin 86 at the relay or to the lock wire. Since the green Viper lock wire is already connected, using this "test" wire should automatically provide a ground connection to both the relay and the lock wires.
If your relay isn't clicking or engaging, first check all the connections are wired correctly.
Pin 85 - 12v Constant (test with meter)
Pin 86 - First half of green lock wire from Viper (other half goes to the lock wire)
Pin 87 - no connection
Pin 87a (center) - one half of the lock detection wire
Pin 30 - other half of the lock detection wire
2007 toyota highlander, remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.
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