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ignition kill relay on alarm not working


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af12 
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Joined: September 21, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 24, 2012 at 3:52 AM / IP Logged  
@howie - I will upload a picture of the wiring instructions for you tonight.
I understand what you are saying about cheap alarms, but i really don't have the money for a clifford alarm. I was going to buy a Toad Ai606, which I think would have been the better option. But for £60 working shock, ultrasonics and remote locking is great.
af12 
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Joined: September 21, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 24, 2012 at 7:17 AM / IP Logged  
I've spoken to the company I bought the alarm from, and explained what's wrong and what i've tried.
I have to send the brain and the fobs back for testing as the alarm isn't sending a negative trigger to the relay when armed.
And like i've mentioned before, the alarm is triggered in arm when the key is turned to accessory but then turns off in ignition!
I'll still upload the installation instructions for you to look at.
offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
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Posted: September 24, 2012 at 9:00 AM / IP Logged  
What wire did you connect the alarm constant and ignition input to? Does the alarm constant show 12v regardless of key position? And does the ignition input show 12v when the key is turned to 'on' and then maintain that 12v throughout the starting process?
Finally, where do you have the unit grounded? It sounds like you may have grounded it to a live circuit and the unit is losing it's ground signal when the ignition is turned on. Or the brain is no good and hopefully hasn't already caused extensive damage.
I completely understand what you are saying about not being able to afford the Clifford, but you really need to look at it this way (using random numbers just as an example). Would you rather spend $50 on the alarm now then end up spending possibly $1000+ down the road when that unit fails (again not if... when). Or would you rather just hold off on buying anything until you can afford the Clifford, Compustar, DEI, etc. and end up only spending say $200 total. I speak completely out of experience. I couldn't tell you how many times I had someone come in with some ebay special that was having problems. And every single time it ended up being the unit fried and took out some other piece of electronics in the car. Including one that completely fried the entire ECU at the cost of well over $1000. I would return the one you have and wait til you can afford a better quality unit. Save yourself a MAJOR headache down the road.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: September 24, 2012 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
Compustar in the UK Kenny? Lord I wish.
offroadzj 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: September 24, 2012 at 10:41 AM / IP Logged  
True. Well maybe someday.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
af12 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 3:01 AM / IP Logged  
https://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt271/grishenko45/alarm/a2.jpg
https://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt271/grishenko45/alarm/a3.jpg
https://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt271/grishenko45/alarm/a4.jpg
here are the diagrams....
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 3:52 AM / IP Logged  
Lousy photos, could you list wires?
From the first photo use type A NEG locking, top left.
Second photo didn't come out.
Third, the white shouldn't go to the ACC, only your black ignition wire because the yellow Fiesta ACC wire DUMPS on crank.
Also the fact that they are telling you to cut the ignition is a no-no!!!
Try and print the list, I'll give you the corresponding car wires.
Except at this stage I would throw the whole thing away, contact Armour Autos, find a dealer list and buy one of the new Code 1051 alarms for about £70, just released in the UK and does what it says on the box.
af12 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 4:43 AM / IP Logged  
I've wired it up as positive locking, and it works perfectly. I looked up which model fiestas use what locking, and MK4s were negative and mk5s were positive.. I have no issues with the remote central locking.
this is a slightly better image - you can read the wire colours..
https://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt271/grishenko45/alarm/a5.jpg
What do you mean about the ACC "dumps" on crank?
Should I try to connect the white wire to the ignition wire instead of the ACC and try the starter kill again?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 5:28 AM / IP Logged  
Never mind I've just looked properly at the picture, this effort was better, just cut the starter instead of the ignition coil or even the fuse I mentioned in an earlier post.
Also refer to my original starter cut diagram.
af12 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 5:37 AM / IP Logged  
The starter is cut and currently wired exactly as your cut diagram.
Other 4 pin relay diagrams for starter kill, say to loop 86 to 30, would this work?
Also there is no ground for the alarm, except the siren ground.
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