avital 4103 2006 camry

kreg357 wrote: This is a learning experience.  It can be frustrating but perseverance will win. Here is a little tid-bit of info from the Viper 5501 install manual concerning the 4-pin satellite harness wires: Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote start auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If connecting these wires directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent feedback from the vehicle. Have you tried running Shutdown Diagnostics? There is something else wrong here.  Maybe you are still in MTS mode, haven't learned the Tach signal yet or something...   We need an Avital installer to give us some insight from their experiences.

Think this means that if you apply a ground to any of these wires, you will actuate the associated relay. If the Avital unit you are using has the same design, then you are manually starting the engine during your remote start attempt by grounding that (-) Starter wire and forcing the internal Starter relay to energize. I think kreg is onto something! I highlighted the important part of what he said in bold text for emphasis. The way the Camry is made, if you fail to power up EITHER starter wire, the car will not crank at all. Doesn't matter which one of the two you happen to get wrong. Also, the Avital unit has two fuses. One fuse powers the circuitry for the brain, and the internal relays for the Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 outputs. The second fuse only powers the Starter and Accessory outputs. Accessory isn't needed on most Toyotas, so if you failed to power that up, you wouldn't even notice a problem. I wonder if the OP has one of the two fuses blown? OP: Test both thick red wires where they enter the brain, and make sure both are getting power. Then, just leaving the system set up the way you have it (and with no jumper wires), test BOTH starter wires on the car during remote start.

Once again asking the OP to post/list all of the wire connections from the Avital to what wires on the Camry so we can see the install.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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X 2 with smokeman 1.

Just dug this out from a few months ago, 448_tacoma_wiring.bmp The wire going to the relay terminal 85 is the NEG second starter wire. Here's a simplified version. 4AB_tac_2nd._starter.bmp

Here's a version of the second starter customised for the 4103. F8D_tac_2nd._starter.bmp

Have you actually tested that thinner purple wire to see if it goes to ground a few seconds after remote start activation?

Thank you very much for all the help! Sorry guys I have been busy at work and at home the past couple days. Plus its been 0 deg in Grand Rapids. Primary h1 - h5 nothing connected h6 - GREEN/ black - works h7 - blue white - works via relay h8 - to chassis under dash with self tapping screw- I also clamp my test light to this screw h9 - green - works Satellite 1 - to blue on bypass- BTW do I need a bypass if I stick a key under the dash? 2 -X 3- to relay then black yellow - this black yellow tests positive only while starting 4-X Heavy Gauge 1 - BLACK/ red 2 - black white 3 - blue/red 4&6 both WHITE/ red. Exposed wire jacket, separated wire, and looped both red wires through 5 - BLACK / YELLOW 6 - see 4 above Door Lock 1- Blue 2-X 3 - blue / YELLOW Remote Start Harness h2/1 - grounded same point as h8 h2/2 - X h2/3 - GREEN / WHITE - Works h2/4 - connected to hood pin switch - with hood up remote start does not function at all h2/5 - X All small gauge wire connected with blue or red tap connectors. The heavy gauge wires are spliced and loop and twisted through the center of the wire. All connections are also taped. *Chris yes both heavy gauge red wires have constant power all the time *I will meter the purple second starter output today. I know that the purple starter wire on the Avital does NOT energize unless I ground the second starter output .

Not very helpful, the Avital colours would have been good. REMOVE and THROW AWAY all those T-Taps, that's the main cause of your grief! I'll let some others explain why. You will need to connect the blue (-) key sense to your H3/5 blue/white Use the by-pass, leaving the key is an invitation to steal, also invalidates your insurance here. H1/8 Completely wrong s/taps work loose, an M6 (1/4") ring terminal, either crimped or soldered to a 10mm head bolt in the kickwell. Scrape the paintwork away under the bolt. Grounding via a factory bolt and soldering ALL your connections should end this post to your satisfaction. Your knowledge is fine, your application awful Go to the General section in the Forums and please read the soldering threads.

BTW, using T-Taps in this country is banned, vibration and moisture borne corrosion will f**k them in about a month, also not as good a joint electrically as solder. BTW, the section you listed as H2 is in fact H3.

X 2 with Howard.  T-Taps are not a good choice, ever.

H1/1  LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK  FACTORY ALARM DISARM Not Used

H1/2  GREEN / WHITE  FACTORY REARM              Not UsedH1/3  YELLOW  (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)                Not UsedH1/4  WHITE/ BLUE  (-) ACTIVATION INPUT          Not UsedH1/5  ORANGE  (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED    Not UsedH1/6  BROWN  (-) HORN OUTPUT            GREEN/ black (-)    @ switch H1/7  RED / WHITE  (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT         WHITE/ blue  5wi    @ DKP  w/relayH1/8  BLACK  GROUND                 Chassis GroundH1/9  WHITE  (+/-) LIGHT FLASH               red (-)    @ switch 

Satellite Harness

1  BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT        Universal bypass    GWR Input2  ORANGE  (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not Used3  PURPLE  (-) STARTER OUTPUT        To Pin 85 Starter2 external relay4  PINK  (-) Ignition OUTPUT       Not Used

Main Ignition Harness ( thick wires )

1  PINK  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT           BLACK/ Red @ Ignitnion Switch Harness2  PURPLE  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT               BLACK/ White @ Ignitnion Switch Harness3  ORANGE  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT        Blue/Red @ Ignitnion Switch Harness4  RED  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT   WHITE/ Red @ Ignitnion Switch Harness5  PINK/WHITE  (+) PROGRAMMABLE  FOR ACC2 OR IGN2             BLACK/ .Yellow @ Ignitnion Switch Harness  *** Set for IGN26  RED  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT            WHITE/ Red @ Ignitnion Switch Harness

Door Lock Harness

1  BLUE  (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT blue (double pulse) (-)    @ DKP   2  EMPTY  NOT USED3  GREEN  (-) LOCK OUTPUT                  blue / YELLOW (-)    @ DKP

Remote Start Harness

H2/1  BLACK/ WHITE  (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT    Chassis GroundH2/2  VIOLET/WHITE  TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE    BLACK/ orange (ac)       @ ECM behind glovebox H2/3  BROWN  (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE          GREEN / WHITE (+)     @ Brake switch H2/4  GRAY  (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE          Avital supplied hood pin H2/5  BLUE/WHITE  (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/DEFOG OUTPUT         Not Used

Soldering is fun!