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2005 corolla, parking lights


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corear 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2013
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 25, 2013 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged  

I am installing an Omega AL-100F car alarm into my 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS.  The car has existing factory keyless entry (no factory alarm).

My question is about the Parking Lights.  I see the Omega AL-100F has a "+ Parking Light Output" and I have found in my car where it can take a + or - (two different locations).  I hooked up to the - input by mistake, and I could have sworn that it worked, but when I permanently connected the wires, it no longer works.  I cannot hook up to the + input either.

Do you think I damaged my Omega AL-100F?  I'm thinking I did, and I can live with that.  I took a + output and pluged into a - input.  Is that escentially a short circuit like connecting the + and - of the battery terminals?

If I did damage my Omega AL-100F, I'm thinking I can take the optional Siren output + constant and try to find something that will turn that into a + pulse for the lights.  However, the wire for the lights had a 10 amp fuse on it.  Should I NOT use the Siren wire and some sort of adapter that will turn the + constant into a + pulse for the lights for when the alarm is going off?  If I can use it, should I also use a 10 amp fuse there?

Please let me know if I am not clear enough about something, and THANKS!!!

offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 25, 2013 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged  
Here is the info on that car:
Parking Lights+      green      +      driver kick, harness to rear
Parking Lights-      GREEN / WHITE      -      headlight switch
Notes: CAUTION: If the Parking Lights (-) circuit is interfaced with incorrectly, it will damage the vehicle DRL module. Use of the Parking Lights (+) circuit is recommended.
DO NOT USE THE (-) CONNECTION unless you plan on isolating it with a relay. The + connection is your better choice. If you connected it to the + output of the Omega than you most likely either killed the Omega output or possibly damaged your factory switch / DRL module. The only way to know for sure is to test it with a meter and see if you are getting 12volts out of the Omega. But before you do that, test all aspects of your factory switch and make sure you did not already damage it. It is a VERY bad practice to connect anything without testing first... and you may have just learned that the hard way.
So in short, test your switch first (all aspects of it). If it is working properly then test the output from the Omega and see if you are getting any voltage from it when you should (temporary when locking / unlocking, and either on constant or flashing when remote started depending on programming). If you by chance still have an output (you got extremely lucky) then test for the + light connection in the vehicle and connect it to that wire.
If you did damage the Omega, then you are pretty much SOL for parking lights. By connecting it to the siren, the lights will just come on and stay on ONLY when the alarm is going off. To wire it up any other way will require additional relays and other components that, quite frankly (not trying to be mean here, just speaking the truth) you probably should not mess around with in fear of causing further damage.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
offroadzj 
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Posted: March 25, 2013 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged  
And to add to that, PLEASE tell me you tested every one of the other factory wires before making any connections. If not you may be in for many other issues. If you did not test anything, then immediately stop, go back, and test everything before using the alarm. One incorrect connection can cause thousands of dollars in damage to the vehicle.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
corear 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2013
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 25, 2013 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged  
offroadzj,
 
Thanks for the detailed information and quick reply!!!
 
So, to answer your question, Yes.  I am testing everything...except for the Parking Lights!!!  I was 100% on testing everything else and I just overlooked the one (1).
 
I believe I have damaged my alarm unit (which I'm okay with for this issue).  My parking lights still behave normally in all other instances.  They flash when my factory keyless entry locks or unlocks and they also turn on when turning on my parking lights and/or my headlights.  They also still work when I use my turn signals.
 
My understanding is that electricity atually flows backwards from - to + (from an electron perspective) even though they teach that it goes the other way.  When connecting my + output to a - input, the first thing the electrons hit would be the + output of the alarm unit.  I believe my lights did flash because of the voltage going on and off, but it burned out pretty quickly.  I flashed a few times as a test, and then the permanent connection never worked--no smell or anything.  The green wire now doesn't work even though I get a +12V when testing it when I turn the lights on and off with the headlight switch.
 
Anyway, I think I'm good now.  I just wanted to see what people out there thought.
 
Thanks!!!
offroadzj 
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Posted: March 25, 2013 at 1:08 PM / IP Logged  
It only takes a minute to test the output of the alarm and know right away if it is bad or not. I would think it would have blown the fuse before damaging anything internal. Do you have factory daytime running lights? If so you may want to make sure they are working correctly since that is the module that would have been damaged.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
corear 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2013
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 26, 2013 at 3:51 PM / IP Logged  

Kenny,

I have my Lock and Unlock Sense wires plugged in (as well as the Starter Interupt wires, ground, etc...).  However, I do NOT have my Lock and Unlock Triggers plugged in where the Omega AL-100F would trigger the doors to Lock when I start the car (I believe 0.5 seconds after it starts) and to Unlock when I turn off the car.  Those are my last wires to hook up...then my Window Roll-Up wires which I'm good on.  I found the 3 other windows in the kick panel and I guess I'll have to go to the door switch for the driver window.

Where should I hook the Trigger wires up?

Also, as a sanity check, where should I have hooked up for the Lock and Unlock Sense wires?  I certainly tested those, and the alarm works for every feature so far (except my Parking Lights LOL).

Again, THANKS!!!

offroadzj 
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Posted: March 26, 2013 at 5:29 PM / IP Logged  
Here is the information for the factory lock and unlock wires:
Power Lock      green      -      driver kick, 10 pin plug
Notes: Meter these wires while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock      blue / YELLOW (double pulse)      -      driver kick, 10 pin plug
Notes: Meter these wires while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Can also use the passenger door key cylinder wire for unlock, which only requires a single pulse. It is blue/black (-) in the passenger kick in a 10 pin plug.
I am not familiar with that unit at all so I have no idea how it is supposed to connect. With a normal alarm / remote start system you would just connect the (-) lock and unlock outputs directly to the factory wires... not sure how that model works though...
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
smokeman1 
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Posted: March 26, 2013 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  

According to the manual on this unit, it has a red connector that is used for door lock/unlock.  Green (-) to Green (-) on car for lock, and Blue (-) to Blue / YELLOW (-) on car for unlock.

DO TEST, before connect as posted by offroadzj.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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91stt 
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Silver spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 24, 2006
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 27, 2013 at 1:30 AM / IP Logged  
they alarm module should have been protected by the 10A fuse if you connected it to the negative wire. Have you checked the fuse?
When hooking up the lock sense wire, use the Type #5 diagram for your vehicle.
AL100F.......Function..........Vehicle Wire.......Location
Pink.........All Lock..........Blue...............Either kick panel
Brown........All Unlock........Red................Passenger kick panel
Gray.........Driver Unlock.....Red................Driver kick panel
White........Lock Override.....Ground
Brown........Unlock Override...No connection
Blue.........Arm Pass-Thru.....No connection
Green........Disarm Pass-Thru..No connection
This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.
corear 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2013
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 27, 2013 at 8:43 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks to everyone for the tips.  I am using Type 5 for my alarm, so I'm glad to see that matches.

I looked at the fuse and it looked good visually.  I will take the fuse out and look for a +12V where the fuse plugs into the wire coming off my alarm + output for the Parking Lights.

I will not be able to do this until this weekend, so I'll report back as soon as I try those things.

THANKS!!!

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