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2001-2003 F-150 Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 08, 2015 at 5:01 AM / IP Logged  

As mentioned, I have never tried a re-furb unit, so I'm not sure if they come locked and if the remotes are pre-paired with the brain.

I sometimes assume that everyone does an install the way I do.  I always bench prep the R/S unit and connect all the necessary wires

to the vehicle during the install.  I never do it in stages.  Then I insert the fuses and start the programming sequences and testing.

Have you been able to change any options on the 5102?  If not, perhaps you didn't connect the door trigger wire or it's not going to

a valid door trigger wire.  Either way you can just disconnect it and use a jumper to ground for that programming step.

If you connected the Parking Light wire to the truck, do they flash when your try a lock or unlock?  The lock wires don't have to be

connected yet.

Soldering is fun!
smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: November 08, 2015 at 6:43 AM / IP Logged  
I have used re-furb units before. All of the ones I have used were not locked and the remotes were paired to the units. I don't recall having a bad re-furb unit either. To date they are all working fine.
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pentavolvo 
Copper - Posts: 241
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Joined: September 30, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 08, 2015 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged  
Used tons of refurbs. None were locked, all came paired and zero issues to date
goldenlock 
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Joined: October 13, 2015
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: December 03, 2015 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  
This seems to be a great help who want a keyless entry system. In this the electronic lock controls access the vehicle without using a traditional mechanical key. It is important to carefully enter the self-programmed numeric code for entry. Nowadays, you will get two types of remote keyless systems, one which unlocks the doors, and the other which locks the engine.
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jared26 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: December 26, 2015 at 10:30 PM / IP Logged  
Hey guys, good topic here with a lot of good info, actually wish I had seen it earlier, I would have been able to get the parking light and brake wires a little easier.
Heres my dilemma:
I got a Command Start CS888LCD2 for Christmas and spent the day trying to install it into my 2000 F150 Supercab.
I've got the unit hooked up for the most part, but I am having issues with the parking lights, door locks and the dome light.
It seems as my truck didn't have factory RKE, I grabbed the power door lock wires from the passenger kick panel, used a test light to see which is - and which is + and hooked them up to the corresponding wires in the harness for my remote start, I tried locking and unlocking the doors from the remote but the locks don't respond, on the door lock harness from my remote start there is a +12v output wire, where on the truck do I splice that in?
I also have the + dome light input going to the BLACK/ blue wire in the drivers kick panel but receive no response from the dome light when locking or unlocking the truck with the remote.
The last is the parking lights I have the brown wire from the headlight switch hooked up to the parking light wire on my remote start and the parking lights don't flash when hitting lock or unlock on the remote either, there is another fused wire coming from the harness on my remote start which is for polarity selection, how does that work? Do I hook it to ground or positive or ?
I got frustrated and called it a day so I haven't hooked up the tach input or hood switch so I haven't tried the remote start yet, I'll do that after I get this sorted out.
I should note that when you hit the unlock or lock button on the transmitter the horn honks once for unlock and twice for lock and you can hear relays clicking so it seems like its trying to do something but I get no response from the locks, dome light or parking lights.
Any help would be very much appreciated, I've done all types of work on vehicles and thought I could handle doing a remote start myself but it seems like it might be just a bit out of my realm of capability.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 8:52 AM / IP Logged  
If your truck did not come from the factory with Remote Keyless Entry, you have Type C locks, This will require a DEI 451M Door Lock Module or two relays and a fuse holder w/ 10 Amp fuse. Read up on the Type C Reverse polarity door locks and see diagrams with the Door Locks tab up above.
Never used the R/S system you have but with the Trucks (+) Parking Light Brown wire, that R/S Parking Light fused input wire should go to +12V constant so the output wire is (+).
Not familiar with your R/S system, but is the Dome Light Supervision out a (-) output? The truck is looking for a (+) on that BLACK/ Light Blue wire. You might need a relay to make the polarity conversion.
Soldering is fun!
jared26 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 8:44 PM / IP Logged  
Hi Kreg,
Thanks for the quick reply. It was snowing today so I didn't play with it. I ended up finding a diagram about the type C locks yesterday, if I can find a pats bypass that does the locks as well I might do that, otherwise I'll go the relay route.
I will try hooking that fused wire up to a 12v constant to see if that gets the parking lights working.
As far as the dome light input it is a + from the unit but I did just realize on the diagram it says dome light input as opposed to output, there is another wire for a - input but I don't see anything o the diagram for a dome light output. Hmmm
jared26 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: December 28, 2015 at 11:31 PM / IP Logged  
Made some progress today, I've now got the keyless entry working as well as the parking lights.
The dome light still isn't working so I'll have to look into that further.
The problem I have now is the remote start isn't starting the truck. I do have PATS but am going to do my own work around on that so for now I just tried starting it with the key in the ignition.
It will crank but not fire, if I move the key into the run position from off while its cranking it will fire and run just fine, I think I have one of the ignition wires run incorrectly as I don't hear it prime the fuel pump when using the remote start.
The way I have it wired is:
R/S      Ignition switch
+12v input        Light GREEN/ violet
2nd aux output Not wired
2nd aux input    Not wired
Starter kill motor side      Not wired
Starter kill key side        Not wired
Ignition output +  Dark blue/Light green
Heater A/C output +        Gray / YELLOW
Starter output +RED / Light blue
+12v input        Light GREEN/ Violet
Tach input        WHITE/ Pink at PCM
The truck had an alarm or keyless module or something in it when I bought it and both +12v inputs were wired to the same light GREEN/ violet ignition switch wire so I just kept it the same way on this installation to cut down on new splices into the harness.
Theres also another 3 wire harness from the alarm that has accessory, ignition and start negative outputs, I'm not too sure where to wire those into.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 29, 2015 at 4:44 AM / IP Logged  
Really need a  Command Start CS888LCD2 Install Manual to help out.  The truck has several Ignition / Accessory wires that should be powered during a remote start.  You will need relays to use the R/S's (-) Accessory and (-) Ignition outputs to create the high current (+) outputs for the RED / Black and BLACK/ Light Green ignition wires.  Additionally, due to the current draw, I would split the R/S's +12V inputs between the available supply wires in the trucks ignition harness.  The added relays for the extra ignition circuits would also go to these ( unused ) +12V constant wires for their input power.
Soldering is fun!
jared26 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: December 29, 2015 at 6:43 AM / IP Logged  
Here's a scan of the install manual. If I don't need to run the - outputs I'd rather not, all I really want the truck to do when remote starting is run the HVAC.
2001-2003 F-150 Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial - Page 3 -- posted image.
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