2001-2003 F-150 Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Yes it is hooked up to the light green wire at the brake switch.

kreg357 wrote: OK. To power the extra ignition wires you will need two 30/40 Amp SPDT relays and the 5 pin harness plus an in-line fuse holder with 20 Amp fuses and a couple of 1N4007 diodes.  Wire as follows : Relay 1 for IGN2 : Relay Pin 85 to R/S IGN (-) Output Blue wire Relay pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to F150 RED / Black wire in ignition harness Relay 2 for ACC2 : Relay Pin 85 to R/S ACC (-) Output Brown wire Relay pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to F150 BLACK/ Light Green wire in ignition harness Connect the diodes across each relay, pins 86 and 85, with the diodes band towards pin 86. There are ample +12V constant wires at the main ignition plug to individually power each circuit.

So im going to use the 4th relay in the r/s to do ACC2 do I only need to do a diode on my external relay? Thanks I'm going to hopefully get this tackled tomorrow.

I'm so close but the issue I'm having now is when I hook up the ignition output wire on the r/s to the dark blue light green ignition wire in the truck it completes a circuit and the airbag and battery light stay on in the cluster and the theft light flashes. I would appreciate any input. Thanks

Please list any R/S output or relay circuit that is connected to the F150's ignition wires.  That seems to be where the problem is ( unless the off-brand R/S unit has a major issue ).   It appears that there is an ignition wire problem - an output that is not working or not behaving as programmed.  You might want to put a meter on these wires and verify that they are indeed working correctly.Soldering is fun!

Ok, I've got the 12v constants hooked to the yellow and green violet wires in the ignition harness, acc1 at they grey / YELLOW wire, acc2 to the RED / BLK wire, starter output to red light blue/ and the ignition output wire stays hot all the time, I'm trying to hook it up to blue light green. I do also have a 12constant from the ignition wires to my relays for the power door locks and as the positive switch for my parking lights. If I cut the 12v to the door locks or take out the fuse for the parking light switch wire I still have the same problem so I don't believe that is causing it.

If I unhook one of the 12v wires the ignition wire in question goes dead. Should that 12v be hooked up to a switched 12v wire as opposed to a constant?

No.  The R/S unit should not allow +12 V out on its' thick Blue Ignition output wire unless the R/S is actually trying to R/S the truck.  Something is wrong.  Try removing the fuses for a few minutes to see if that resets it.  

Do you have the thin Blue (-) Ignition Output wire from that 3 pin plug connected to anything?

Well, I've seen you worked on that brand before but here goes :

First, you are NOT set for Starter kill, so those wires are available.

The 2 Red wires go to +12V constantThe Green wire can be set to ACC2 and connected to the F150's RED / Black ACC2 wire.The Yellow is not used. ( input )The Purple wire is not used.The Blue wire goes to the F150's Dark Blue/Light Green IGN1 wire.The Brown wires goes to the F1`50 Grey / YELLOW ACC1 wire.The Orange wire goes to the F150's RED / Light Blue Starter wire.

There will be a Light Blue/Pink IGN2 if equipped with rear ABS.

Extra relay for BLACK/ Light Green ACC3.

Soldering is fun!

No, nothing from the thin blue wore, I set the programmable relay up and set it up as ignition to try and bypass putting any extra relays in. There is a note here on the manual for the programmable relay that the yellow is for the input +(-) so I have it hooked up to a 12v constant. Do I not need that even having the green set up for acc2?

Think you might be correct on the Yellow wire.  If you are using the Flex relay ( instead of as a Starter Kill relay ) then the Yellow is the input for the Green Output, so it goes to +12V constant.  Not sure about the actual programming necessary.

But your problem is that the thick Blue wire is outputting +12V all the time, not just during a remote start.

Soldering is fun!

OK, I will try hooking the yellow wire back up, I've gone into the programming options and set the flex relay as acc. I took the unit out of the truck and opened it up just to see take a look at the board and see if there were any obvious signs of damage but I noticed no burns or anything it all looked fine, plugged it back into the truck and now it won't try to remote start at all and that ignition wire isn't staying hot anymore. The remote start also has an on/off switch that you can use to disable the remote starter, I noticed that if I set it to off it would cut power to the ignition wire, switch it back to on and the ignition wire would stay hot all the time.