remote start, 2010 toyota matrix

HI I will follow the wiring for relay #1 and #2 in your previous post, as you mentioned: (The two relays will only energize and supply an output during a remote start, controlled by the CT-3310). Thanking you so much, no doubt your suggested wiring diagram for two relays is the only solution to my problem. I will rewire the system and update will be posted tomorrow. Mike

HI I rewired two relays but still problem exist but something new and that is the ASD-AL CA can not be programmed since ignition wire is not connected to matrix wiring but to relays therefor during programming it does not see +12v at the pink wire while the key is turned to run. Mike.

Easy enough. Just move the ADS AL CA Pink Ignition input wire to Pin 30 wire of Relay1 that goes to the Matrix Ignition1 wire. However, just thought of another new problem. Most R/S systems rely on seeing an actual vehicle Ignition wire. Sometimes it's for the alarm, virtual tach, programming or tach learn reasons. If you run into problems, you might have to go with your single relay diagram and live with the fact that the Ignition2 relay will be on while driving. As a point of interest, most R/S systems have extra (-)200mA outputs for Igntion2, Starter2 and Accessory2, making adding relays for this type of install so much easier.Soldering is fun!

How about to go back to one relay for ignition #2,add a second relay to be energized by starter wire# 1 : 85 starter wire #1 86 chassis ground 87 chassis ground 30 blue/white wire of ASD-AL CA. This way true ground signal supplied to ASD while cranking, once car started then starter is disengaged and second relay is dropped out. Do you think this might work. Mike

I'm getting confused. Does the CT-3310 have a problem with it's White G.W.R. output wire? That wire, if working properly should be all that is needed to signal the ADS AL CA. You should be able to test this wire with a DMM during a remote start attempt.Soldering is fun!

I will test it .Thank you

Should I  check for continuity between GWR wire of the R/S and ground using DMM set to ohms while remote start is running , if it is the case then no continuity . The meter reading is about 0.399 kilo ohms .Does  this  indicates that my R/S is gone bad or there is another kind of test. Mike

No, use the 20V DC range. Connect the Red test lead to +12V constant and the Black Test lead to the CT-3310 White G.W.R. output. When the G.W.R. signal goes active, you will see +12V on the DMM. ( The G.W.R. signal going to (-), or chassis ground, will complete the circuit and the meter will read +12V.)Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the info. I checked the output voltage of GWR wire and I do no get 12v dc while remote starting. I bought Prostart CT-3371 (on sale)which is slightly different than CT-3310. hopefully I will use it tomorrow (Sunday)after minor wiring change (-ve parking output wire ) plus programming change (mode 3 to change option 2 to option 1 for ADS and function 3 to change option 2 to option 1 for one way com). I think the rest of the default option are fine for auto transmission. Just to remind you that I will use only one relay for second ignition wire and sharing GWR wire with this relay as well as ASD. Since I am using fifth relay for second starter wire do I need to connect it to a relay or direct connection from fifth relay output to second starter wire. MIKE

The fifth relay output can be directly connected to the vehicles Starter2 wire. Good luck with the new unit.Soldering is fun!