4206p 00 malibu guide?

Correct, RED / Black. Cool. Thanks a bunch. Looks like this weekend is the moment of truth. We'll see how it goes. Thanks, ROB

Well I have everything hooked up except the H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT To Pin 85 of relay ** H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Light Blue @ Brake Pedal Switch (C1/C2/C3 Circuit 1134) H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)   to supplied hood pin ????????????? (PURPOSE?) This is what I did. Got all wires hooked up... except the ones listed above and the H2/9 blue to PLJX brown... I programmed the PLJX via the instructions THEN I plugged in the 4206P and then connected the h2/9 to pljx.. Went through and learned the tach. I believe that went as it was supposed to. Then remote pairing, followed to a "T" and all went as instructed. Car wont remote start. I tried to run the diagnostic... and it blinked "7 times"... Timer mode/Turbo mode/ Manual mode error. I'm not sure what's up. Thanks, ROB

New problem. So I went through the menu and enabled auto trans as I was getting 7 blinks from the marker lights. Now, this time around... The car tries to start for a second... Does it a few times... Like on the 3rd or 4th try it pops the trunk (how the trunk pops I dont know, as it is not wired up)... Antitheft light is blinking... (insert shaking head in anger here). Not sure what to do next.

Previous new problem, not a problem. Sorry about all the posts. Update. Went ahead and disconnected the brown wire from bypass/blue wire from 4206p. Did a reprogram on the PLJX. Not sure if I just didnt program the PLJX properly the first time or if I was supposed to to have the 4206p hooked up as well minus the H2/9 blue to PLJX brown (4206p not hooked up first time/only had PLJX hooked up) but all seems to work for now. Not sure why before the trunk was popping after trying to start multiple times with no success. Maybe someone can explain what was happening. I feel I might need to get a battery or maybe this one just needs to recharge a bit since I did use the mirror lights on and off during the install. Either way. Car starts and runs fine. Still have to wire up the H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Light Blue @ Brake Pedal Switch (C1/C2/C3 Circuit 1134) and H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT But I cant seem to find the LT BLUE wire at the brake pedal.

So here's where I'm at. Everything is wired up minus the hood pin and the 451M. Trunk release is wired up but I have yet to program it. Purchased a new battery as I figured the old battery would attribute to the remote start not wanting to start ever so often. So 1 of 3 things happens.. 1) Remote starts car fine and all is good (obviously not a problem here) 2) Tries to start 1 time and doesn't start... Lights/dash stay on... (i'll usually initiate shutdown on the remote control after about 5-6 seconds if it doesn't try to start again) 3) Tries to start and fails. Attempts to start again, fails... Like 3rd or 4th time it pops the trunk. Why would 2 or 3 be happening? More importantly why does it only try once and not again and why #3 does it try a few times then pops the trunk? I started multiple times with the old battery earlier in the day no problem... Though just like last night once it gets dark and REAL COLD it acts stupid.

A few thoughts :

1.  Ensure that all connections are well soldered and properly insulated.

2. As mentioned previously, the R/S's chassis ground wire should have a soldered on terminal ring and be bolted to a

good chassis ground point.

3. Were you having start-up problems before ( due to the Passlock2 ) ?  The PLJX "learns" the Passlock2 value during

programming, so if that is off and / or the wire connections aren't perfect, it could account for your engine start-up problems.  Are you getting any "Security" type dash lights during the failed start attempts?

4. As you found out, programming the R/S with the remotes is tricky.  Due to the failed start-ups and re-tries, I would

verify that the R/S is in Tach Mode and re-learn the Tach signal.  Another thought, does the Malibu have "one-touch"starting?  That is where the car will continue to crank the starter motor and get the engine running with just a quick turn and release of the key to the START position.  If it does, you could program the R/S for a fixed crank time and letthe car do the rest.  Also, check the R/S's shutdown diagnostic for a reason / code  for the failed remote start attempt.

Soldering is fun!

1. Ensure that all connections are well soldered and properly insulated. I am certain all connections are solid as I made sure to check each one after I wired them up one by one. I will check again though. Insulation wise, I probably used more insulation then I should, but I wanted to be certain there was no shorts anywhere. 2. As mentioned previously, the R/S's chassis ground wire should have a soldered on terminal ring and be bolted to a good chassis ground point. Terminal ring was used. I verified chassis ground in multiple places on the chassis to make certain I had a good connection. All seems golden. Will check again. 3. Were you having start-up problems before ( due to the Passlock2 ) ? The PLJX "learns" the Passlock2 value during programming, so if that is off and / or the wire connections aren't perfect, it could account for your engine start-up problems. Are you getting any "Security" type dash lights during the failed start attempts? As stated previously, what happened yesterday was.... I initially programed the PLJX without having the 4206p installed. (I had all wiring run for the 4206p just didn't plug it in yet) After I attempted to program the PLJX I plugged in the 4206p and then also connected the 4206 blue/PLJX brown as I believe I had programed the Passlock correctly. Then I proceeded to learn the tach. Then programed the remotes/fabs. Once I believed I had everything programmed I went ahead and attempted to remote start the car. All that happened was I encountered "7 Blinks" from the marker lights. From the diagnostic that had something to do with "manual mode enabled". So I went through the menus and changed from manual trans to auto. Once I fixed that I again attempted to remote start. It tried to start but did not. A couple seconds go by and it tries to start again. Typically when I initiated remote start it would try to start like 3 or 4 times. If it did not start by the 3rd or 4th try in the sequence it would pop the trunk... Then I believe it stops trying to start. I tried a few more times and then eventually I encountered the THEFT light... So I attempted to start the car via the regular key. No dice. Wouldn't start that way either So I went ahead and disconnected the battery. Waited a bit then plugged back in. Once theft light was gone I started the car via the regular key. Once that worked I reprogrammed the PLJX. This time around I had the 4206p fully connected, just unplugged the blue 4206/brown PLJX wire. After it was programmed this time I connected the blue/brown wire again. At this point the battery seemed a bit low so I threw a battery charger on it and waited. Once the battery charged a bit I went ahead and remote started the car. All seems fine. It starts no problem a few times. Plus its also 15 degrees outside so its kinda starting slow. So I called it a night. So I go back today and remote start. Starts up multiple times no problem. I finished wiring up the brake switch and trunk release. By this time its about 4pm and temps are at 20ish degrees. Battery seems weak as I try to start via the key. Slow start. So I went to get a new battery as the old one is 3 years old already. Plug in the new battery and start the car with key. Then I attempt to start once (starter cranks a few times then stops) Does not continue. I shut down remote start. I try again. Now it starts. Since the new battery was installed I tried starting a few times and no problem. I just started it 2 times from inside the house and no problem. So, I'm not sure. Maybe its fine now. Guess I'll watch it and see if it happens again. If it encounter the no start/ trunk pop or no start (cranks once then stops) I'll let you know. 4. As you found out, programming the R/S with the remotes is tricky. Due to the failed start-ups and re-tries, I would verify that the R/S is in Tach Mode and re-learn the Tach signal. Another thought, does the Malibu have "one-touch" starting? That is where the car will continue to crank the starter motor and get the engine running with just a quick turn and release of the key to the START position. If it does, you could program the R/S for a fixed crank time and let the car do the rest. Also, check the R/S's shutdown diagnostic for a reason / code for the failed remote start attempt. I believe its in tach mode as it starts and runs for now. I will check again though. If it wasn't in tach mode wouldn't it not start and stay running like it is now? Malibu does not have one touch. I can check the shutdown diagnostic. Is the code stored for a while or no? I mean, if I try to start and it doesn't then it eventually starts is the code still stored or is it cleared.

So hopefully you dont get a headache reading my previous post but here is my current attempt. I just remote started the car 3 times. 1st attempt - Start no problem. Wait about 30 seconds. 2nd attempt - remote start initiates and cranks once. Then stops. Lights stay on. No more crank. I initiate shut down. Wait 30 seconds. 3rd attempt - Cars start no problem. Now I don't know how much weather is a factor.... Plus one other thing I'm thinking... Maybe I'm just crazy but it seems like with the times that there's a no start I cant hear the fuel pump... Maybe its just in my head.

I tried a few more times and then eventually I encountered the THEFT light... So I attempted to start the car via the regular key. No dice. Wouldn't start that way either

This is indicative of "Passlock2 short tamper mode".  This is what happens if the bypass is not programmed properly and you try several remote start attempts. 

Now I don't know how much weather is a factor.... Plus one other thing I'm thinking... Maybe I'm just crazy but it seems like with the times that there's a no start I cant hear the fuel pump... Maybe its just in my head.

Passlock2 actually controls the vehicles fuel pump.  When the Passlock2 is not bypassed, the engine will crank and even fire / stumble briefly when it uses up any  fuel remaining in the rail ( plus the dash Theft light will be on ).

Yes, the shutdown diagnostics code will be stored from the last remote start failure and can be checked at any time.

Soldering is fun!

The theft light was an issue when I initially programed it... I think I got it right the second time. But if there was a passlock issue why does is start and run no problem certain times?