2010 ford f150 problems

I tried both connections again with no luck, the "(-) ground when running output wire" doesn't do anything. Could it be programming? It has 2 spots where its talking about bypass: Function 4 - Bypass    Option 1 ADS (1W D2D)    Option 2 Xpresskit (2W D2D)    Option 3 Fortin (1W D2D) Function 5 - Bypass Type    Option 1 One Way Communication    Option 2 Two Way Communication What options should i select? Again, does it matter in a hard wire mode at all, is there any other way to do this? Is there anything I can test or switch for this to work? Thank you.

Those options shouldn't make a difference in hardwire mode. Just to be clear as far as the bypass goes, You are pressing and holding the programming button whilst plugging in the power plug, then when the led starts to go nuts, leave go of the button and wait till it flashes green. It should give you one green blink, then you will press and release the programming button once and it will give you a double green blink. Then you press and hold the programming button to lock in w2w mode, the light turns solid green then goes out. Then you proceed to program the bypass to the vehicle with the keysAdvanced

Some wire charts list the heated seats as WHITE/ blue - left front and gray / YELLOW - right front. They are both negative trigger but doesn't list them as being latched or pulsed. You will want to meter the wire to find out. You can find them at the hvac control moduleAdvanced

Correct, flushes red, then stays red, then green blinker, can switch to single or double blink by pressing the programming button, hold the button, stays green then nothing. When I put the key in, start the truck, leave it in different positions nothing happens, I have 2 keys.

So with the seats i just have to see if that wire stays negative or just a quick read and back to nothing while i press the button? Does it matter that there are 3 different heat intensity settings?

with your meter can you verify you have 12 volts ignition on the pink wire right at the bypass. Even if the rx and tx were wrong, the led on the ads module should blink red rapidly when it sees ignition.Advanced

Just did, and yes when i turned the key got ~12 volts on the pink wire at the bypass.

did you splice into the rx and tx wires right at the connector or further down the harness ? There are some of the same wire color in that main harness that goes up the column. Did you double/triple check you have the right rx and tx vehicle wires and bypass wires connected?Advanced

right at the connector, maybe an 1" from it, I unplugged it and it was ease enough to do. There are not that many wires involved i'll re-check them all again. How do i test "Ground when running"? What i did before, i checked it the same as i would for regular ground, is this the way to go? Because i didn't get any readings when the truck was off or running.

It looks like GWR from the prostart is a white wire which will show a latched ground signal as soon as you press the remote start button on the remote and that should connect to the blue/white GWR input on the bypass. You can check the output from the prostart by taking your positive meter probe and putting it to 12 volts and your ground probe to the white wire, activate the remote start and it should meter 12volts. Kill the remote start and it should go back to 0. If you take the blue/white GWR wire from the bypass and ground it, does the led on the bypass do anything, what color if so?Advanced