dball2, viper 2010 nissan maxima

Check H3/9 and make sure it has +12VNo question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I may have missed something here but two thoughts: Did you learn tach? Also sometimes the DB-ALL doesn't do what it says on the label! I've often had to hard wire stuff as an after thought. I would separately ground the BLACK/ white at H2/13. Does it start if you leave the key in the ignition? Dome light supervision isn't required on current Toyotas. The vehicle as most Hondas and BMWs has it built in.Test before boxing up.

harryharris wrote: I may have missed something here but two thoughts: Did you learn tach? Also sometimes the DB-ALL doesn't do what it says on the label! I've often had to hard wire stuff as an after thought. I would separately ground the BLACK/ white at H2/13. Does it start if you leave the key in the ignition? Dome light supervision isn't required on current Toyotas. The vehicle as most Hondas and BMWs has it built in.

I don't mean any disrespect, but do you actually read the posts before replying? He has a Nissan Maxima, and the feedback from the question I had about the bypass module are off topic.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Sorry but I skimmed through and saw nothing to do with tach learning, I lost it completely thinking it was a Toyota..oops. But still begging the question at this stage how many clicks/LED flashes are we getting on the failure diagnostics?Test before boxing up.

magnamagus wrote: I do hear a Clicking sound and then car turns ON then Off.

The starter isn't engaging, no error code.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

"I do hear a clicking sound" Please count the number of clicks and let us know. Out of interest I never use that override switch I either join the wires together or solder across the port. Also I would solder all of the joints, then heat shrink the butt joints or use Scotch 33+ or similar over Y joints after testing.Test before boxing up.

This is a overall picture of 2010 Nissan Maxima dash. The side panel pops off with no bolts. The bottom panel has one screw holding it behind the fuse cover. Remove the screw and it pops off as well. [ All connections were military spliced with no solder, blue 3M Tape, just in case I need to remove this alarm later] BCM SOLUTION (Alternative to removing BCM)- I did not remove the BCM due to factory tamper proof security screws, very tight space, and fear of damaging the BCM. The BCM is extremely difficult to remove. I followed the wires from the BCM instead     12v constant - I tapped into the 12v constant (WHITE/ Black wire) at harness coming from the BCM module to the fuse box, rather than at the BCM itself. (isolated with multimeter - military spliced)    Door Input - The green wire below coming out of the kick panel, is connected to the door pin underneath the kick panel, rather than at the BCM itself. I isolated this by testing for continuity from the door pin switch to the wire also military spliced. Ground - Connected at the bracket under the steering column. Tested with a multimeter and connected with yellow screw type connector. Siren - Mounted in front of battery at the front end. Wire was run through the rubber seal at the steering column. The wire harness was extremely difficult to get to.    Python Remote START - First start, I received errors and clicking sounds only. All 12v Constant fused wires needed to be connected, Accessory, ignition Inputs, etc. Second Start attempt, I got a "Manual transmission Error" and then a "Hood Open error". This was resolved by programming the python using the Python Remote, switching factory default from "Manual Trans" to "Automatic Transmission". I got a "hood open error" after a few starts. The factory default for the Hood Pin is 'normally open'. I kept getting an "hood open error" until reset it to "normally close" and then back to "normally open" again using the remote for programming.    REMOTE START NOW WORKS FINE.... vrooom... *LOL* Erick

PROBLEM -- The SHOCK SENSOR is set to a very Low level and it will not let me adjust the sensitivity.   I turned the shock sensor screw to its highest level and still do not have sensitive alarm trigger. I tried setting the shock sensor using the Python Remote but the remote won't allow me to adjust it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this shock sensor problem?Erick

Use the loop on the ribbon to dangle it from a wire with a zip tie. Make sure it has enough room to sway back and forth so the wind doesn't set it off. Turn the potentiometer all the way clockwise. This is going to let the vibrations travel through the wires to the shock sensor without picking up rocking from wind.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)