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2012 silverado, viper 5204


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hzhardy 
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Posted: February 06, 2014 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged  
I am installing a viper 5204 and db-all using the rf loop. I understand the wiring for the most part with exception of the ignition output and diode. it is throwing through a loop as it show the ignition output from the remote start module to the ignition through a diode. the way dei's diagram shows the diode it would prevent the current from the module to go to the ignition line. I know I may be over thinking this, but i want to be sure. there is also two ign out puts are on the heavy connector, which leads me to believe the input would also have to be connected, then there is a flex relay out put on the h2 connector that is a negative trigger. I will stop rambling and I appreciate your help.
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 06, 2014 at 1:22 PM / IP Logged  
also i am doing wire to wire
smokeman1 
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Posted: February 06, 2014 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
I believe the ignition output will come from the DB-ALL Blue connector (14 pin), pin 8, yellow to truck ignition. I does look a bit confusing.
You would be connecting the Pin 9, Pink (10 pin connector) to the Viper H3/1 Pink Ignition 1 Output.
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hzhardy 
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Posted: February 07, 2014 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged  
i guess were i am confused is if i do decide to go d2d would the diode even since necessary since the diode would block any output voltage from the 5204 so it would not do anything.
other than the wiring aspect what is the advantage of d2d or w2w?
smokeman1 
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Posted: February 07, 2014 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged  
Going D2D, you would still need all of the solid line connections, including the diode. D2D does all of the dashed lines, except the TACH sometimes. I have had some DB-ALL pick up the TACH and some did not.
Some people report having issues with D2D. I have only done one in D2D mode as an experiment so to speak. Not sure if it has an issue or not. The DB-ALL lost it's programming after the Jeep battery went dead in this very cold winter. A three minuet reprogram. D2D problem? Not sure yet.
All of my other installs have been W2W. Have had no issues with any of those installs.
So in short it's a your preference.
It does not take much more to do W2W.
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pentavolvo 
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Posted: February 07, 2014 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged  
Tach from dball does work on silverado as info
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged  
[QUOTE=smokeman1] Going D2D, you would still need all of the solid line connections, including the diode. D2D does all of the dashed lines, except the TACH sometimes. I have had some DB-ALL pick up the TACH and some did not.
Some people report having issues with D2D. I have only done one in D2D mode as an experiment so to speak. Not sure if it has an issue or not. The DB-ALL lost it's programming after the Jeep battery went dead in this very cold winter. A three minuet reprogram. D2D problem? Not sure yet.
All of my other installs have been W2W. Have had no issues with any of those installs.
So in short it's a your preference.
It does not take much more to do W2W.[/QUOTE
it is just weird how the have the diode set. the diode would not let current flow from the alarm to the ignition lines the way the diode is depicted. I am just confused as it is a dead end since it goes dotted from there to the dball
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  
it just looks like its whole purpose was to be able to send the dball a ignition source from the remote start or ignition switch but not back feed the ignition lines from the remote start during it's start up sequnece
flobee4 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 1:35 PM / IP Logged  
yes the diode is necessary on the heavy gauge pink ignition 1 output. That pink wire is not only an output, but an input as well. When you goto program the tach or extra remotes the Pink wire needs to "see" the ignition is on. The bypass manufacturer doesn't want the heavy gauge Pink wire to be involved in starting the car, therefore they don't want the pink wire outputting anything. But the remote starter manufacture needs it to be powered up to sense when the ignition is turned on. That's why the diode is there, to block the output to the car, but allow the input from the car to the remote starter for programming purposes on the remote starter. Long story short, Pink Wire needs to be hooked up through diode. Make sure diode is facing correct way.
hzhardy 
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Joined: February 01, 2011
Posted: February 08, 2014 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
flobee4 wrote:
yes the diode is necessary on the heavy gauge pink ignition 1 output. That pink wire is not only an output, but an input as well. When you goto program the tach or extra remotes the Pink wire needs to "see" the ignition is on. The bypass manufacturer doesn't want the heavy gauge Pink wire to be involved in starting the car, therefore they don't want the pink wire outputting anything. But the remote starter manufacture needs it to be powered up to sense when the ignition is turned on. That's why the diode is there, to block the output to the car, but allow the input from the car to the remote starter for programming purposes on the remote starter. Long story short, Pink Wire needs to be hooked up through diode. Make sure diode is facing correct way.
do i need to take the input to power?
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