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2012 silverado, viper 5204


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hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged  
hzhardy wrote:
flobee4 wrote:
yes the diode is necessary on the heavy gauge pink ignition 1 output. That pink wire is not only an output, but an input as well. When you goto program the tach or extra remotes the Pink wire needs to "see" the ignition is on. The bypass manufacturer doesn't want the heavy gauge Pink wire to be involved in starting the car, therefore they don't want the pink wire outputting anything. But the remote starter manufacture needs it to be powered up to sense when the ignition is turned on. That's why the diode is there, to block the output to the car, but allow the input from the car to the remote starter for programming purposes on the remote starter. Long story short, Pink Wire needs to be hooked up through diode. Make sure diode is facing correct way.
do i need to take the input to power?
or does it only need to see the back feed from the ignition
flobee4 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  
Ok I would put the diode inline with the thicker pink ignition 1 wire coming off the remote starter brain closer to the remote starter brain but still a few inches away. Then I would take your thin pink ignition input from the DB-all and tap it into the the diode side of the thicker pink wire that is closer to the brain. Then take the yellow ignition output from the dball and connect to the thicker pink wire on the diode side going away from the brain.
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.       
Hopefully my diagram helps you better understand...
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:41 PM / IP Logged  
ok it is all wired w2w, two questions. Are the heavy gauge inputs needed for my install? and since my truck does not have a factory hood pin do i need to take that wire to ground even through the schematic does not show it? I crimped on delphi gt series pins so most of my connections to my truck will plug into my junction block except my accessory and parking lights. I was going to take my accessory to the jb but in the wiring diagram for the truck is shows the ignition supply voltage teeing off to the theft module then through the bcm unless you guys have had success tying into the accessory else were. I guess it turned out to be three questions
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:46 PM / IP Logged  
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:47 PM / IP Logged  
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:50 PM / IP Logged  
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
hzhardy 
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Posted: February 08, 2014 at 11:52 PM / IP Logged  
i de pinned all the extra wires
flobee4 
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Posted: February 09, 2014 at 3:27 AM / IP Logged  
Yes you'll need the de-pinned heavy gauge power supply wires h3/6 & h3/9. You need the H1/1 wire connected as well.
It really doesn't matter where you get Constant power from as long as ot can supply the amperage needed. I usually get it from the BCM, there are a few RED / whites fused at 15 amps there. I know the junction box against the firewall inside the Cab has some constant 12volt supply as well as accessory, ground, and whatnot.
As for the accessory wire, I would just get it where they recommend. Why try to reinvent the wheel? The Truck is a very easy install with the bypass module, try not to over think it, just follow the diagram.
The pictures of your diode with the pinks and yellow wire soldered was exactly how I would do it. The downgrade to the thinner yellow wire was perfect since the wires at the ignition switch are thin as well.
Do not ground the hood pin input, the viper will think the hood is open if you ground it and will not start. Run the wire out under the hood and install the hoodpin. I install it on the drivers side of the engine compartment down near where the air cartridge for the hood is. There is a U shaped bracket that goes from the fender to the firewall. I borrowed this picture from the internet:
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
hzhardy 
Member - Posts: 24
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Joined: February 01, 2011
Posted: February 09, 2014 at 7:49 AM / IP Logged  
flobee4 wrote:
Yes you'll need the de-pinned heavy gauge power supply wires h3/6 & h3/9. You need the H1/1 wire connected as well.
It really doesn't matter where you get Constant power from as long as ot can supply the amperage needed. I usually get it from the BCM, there are a few RED / whites fused at 15 amps there. I know the junction box against the firewall inside the Cab has some constant 12volt supply as well as accessory, ground, and whatnot.
As for the accessory wire, I would just get it where they recommend. Why try to reinvent the wheel? The Truck is a very easy install with the bypass module, try not to over think it, just follow the diagram.
The pictures of your diode with the pinks and yellow wire soldered was exactly how I would do it. The downgrade to the thinner yellow wire was perfect since the wires at the ignition switch are thin as well.
Do not ground the hood pin input, the viper will think the hood is open if you ground it and will not start. Run the wire out under the hood and install the hoodpin. I install it on the drivers side of the engine compartment down near where the air cartridge for the hood is. There is a U shaped bracket that goes from the fender to the firewall. I borrowed this picture from the internet:
2012 silverado, viper 5204 - Page 2 -- posted image.
thanks a lot for the help, i have been trying to follow the diagram from xpress kit to a t but there seems to be a bit of missing information as it did not show anything about the red and RED / black heavy inputs which did not make sense as see that connector like a relay bank. Hell it didn't even show the hood pin unless you looked at a standalone install. That must be good ole DEI with the secrets to try and keep people with their dealers lol
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