5704 issues with remote start f350 diesel

DenKat, as per your last question, look up Xpresskit and go to your vehicle.

I am not a big Viper person.  The 570x series has had some connector changes over the years.  Here is a link to the full 5704

install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1204     Compare it to your unit.  Basically the wire name,function and color remain the same, even if they changed the pin location.

While the transponder wire info isn't a secret, they just don't try to make it easy for people to find.  Your best bet is

becoming familiar with the three major companies ( Fortin, iDatalink and Directed XpressKit ) and their bypass offerings.Each has a WEB site where anyone can look up your vehicle and then download the specific recommended bypass module's install guide.  It is amazing all the info you can get that way.  I have found that the guides from iDatalink arethe most accurate / helpful.  While the wiring diagrams contained are specific to their bypass module, the vehicle wireinfo / diagrams ( and sometimes photo's ) can be used with any bypass module needing the same vehicle connections.

Here is a link to XpressKit :  http://www.xpresskit.com/

Here is a link to Fortin : https://ifar.ca/en/Here is a link to ADS iDatalink : http://www.idatalink.com/support

While it is a big learning curve at first, if you want to gain knowledge and be prepared, the time spent researching

your vehicle will pay big dividends.  Nothing like a smooth, no surprises, clean install that works right the first time.

Soldering is fun!

Here is the transponder info from iDatalink :F-Series Super Duty 2008-10         TX  Pin 3 Yellow/Orange          RX Pin 4 Violet/Gray Should be a Black 4 Pin Plug found at the ignition switch.Soldering is fun!

Thanks howie II and Kreg it worked. Damn vehicle wiring. And ford double wires. What I mean is in the same area putting two different wires same colour different purpose. Now once again obviously my fault, I should have seen where where wire was going and determined. But all in all it works. Actually PKALL works farely well with 5704 and Ford F350 for that matter. Just need to know the truck wire situation I wish i had spoken to you guys before purchasing. In your opinion guys which are your favourite or what you think are your favourite combinations for ALARM Security Remote Manufactures with features ofcourse? Also favourite Bypass module brand DenKat

Looking at some modules apparently Evo-ALL from Fortin looks good. What do you thinkDenKat

All the above modules are good, I stick with DB-ALL 'cause it's all we have in the UK. "And ford double wires." Try a UK model early Transit Connect (you got the Mk ll) driver side floor loom all door triggers blue/black, there are 4 and one of them is the one you want.

I like Compustar and iDatalink.  In bypass modules, Fortin is a very close second, almost neck and neck with iDatalink. Soldering is fun!

Hi guys sorry to bother you again. So I was half way there Everything with the alarm works but the remote start is still weird. So now when I click remote start it goes to ignition and doesn't start. I wired it as we spoke about in the previous posts. Secondly I tried even with the key in and it indicates that it goes to ignition but it doesn't crank Kreg here is our previous post Here is your listing : h3/1 pink ign in/out - DB/LG ignition harness h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay in - not used h3/3 orange accessory out - BK/LG - ignition harness h3/4 violet start out Rd/LB Engine side of starter wire ignition harness h3/5 green starter in -- key side of cut starter wire h3/6 red ign in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM h3/7 pink/white ign2 out - not used h3/8 pink/black flex relay in - not used h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - tap to const 12v lt grn / YELLOW BCM I think we are talking about a 2008 Ford F350. Here is how it should go according to ReadyRemote : ( http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Ford&model=F350 ) h3/1 pink ign in/out -    WHITE/ Orange @ ignition harness h3/2 RED / white fused ign2/flex relay       Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1 h3/3 orange accessory out -    BROWN / Yellow or Yellow/Orange + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7 ignition harness h3/4 violet start out   Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    Engine side of cut starter wire h3/5 green starter in -- Blue/White + ignition switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10    key side of cut starter wire h3/6 red ign in -        Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1 h3/7 pink/white ign2 - set to ACC2        PURPLE / Green @ ignition harness h3/8 pink/black flex relay in -   not used h3/9 RED / black acc/starter in - Red (fusible links C and D) +    SJB, black 1 pin plug (H), pin 1 Definitely want to test / verify these wires. Additionally, I would strongly recommend using the H2/17 grey hood pin wire with the hood pin supplied in the Viper kit. It is a very good safety measure. Can't help with the Viper programming via the remotes. I took the easy way out and purchased a BitWriter. Think that truck has Ford's infamous N.C. Door Triggers... Like I said even with key in it doesn't crank. I do know I got the right blue/white wire in the ignition and I tested it cause when I disconnect the alarm the car doesn't start. What is stopping it from not cranking Please helpDenKat

Also I did change remote to work on automatic transmission and not manualDenKat

Does the Viper give any type of error code?  ( See Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics in the install guide.)Soldering is fun!