2013-2014 Accord Remote Starter Install Pictorial

Is there a big difference in doing this install on a PTS 13 accord? Ill be using the idatalink AL-CA

Major differences. Disassembly is the same and the Parking Light wire is the same. Other than that, not much. The regular ignition key Accord has a standard ignition cylinder with the normal ignition wires. The PTS Accord does not have an ignition cylinder nor these common ignition wires. Instead, the PTS Accord has a Smart PCU module that controls things. All of the wires found at and used by the R/S & ADS AL-CA are thin gauge. You will want to cut those thick R/S ignition wires and add similar color ~20 gauge wires to make the run and connections at the Smart PCU. This will make soldering easier and everything neater and more compact. Other differences is that the car must shutdown the remote started engine as soon a door is opened. That's just the way it must be on these cars to reset the computer, etc. Most customers get used to it and don't mind re-starting the engine once inside the car. Your best bet is to follow the bypass module install guide to the letter, verifying all vehicle wires for color and pin location ( and DMM test for non-Data wires ).Soldering is fun!

Appreciate the good info Kreg. I was reading over the AL-CA manual and there was the note there also about the required shut down. Guess that's something they will have to live with if they want a remote start.

One more thing. How accessible is the smart module that all my wires have to go to?

Whats your preferred method with these idatalink bypasses? Hardwired or data? Ive always used the hardwired install method, but the data seems like it could save alot of time.

The Smart PCU is fairly accessible to the left of the steering column, much better than the CR-V's that is behind the glove box. As for W2W or D2D, it usually depends on the R/S unit and how much 2 way traffic is going on between them. I still prefer W2W for most of my installs but D2D is becoming a viable option due to the improvements over the years. The best route is a Compustar R/S and a Blade cartridge. Quick, easy, neat and compact.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the information!!! If you have a minute... I'm installing a 7000AS w/Blade AL(DL) HA6 into a 2015 Honda Accord Sport, 4 cyl., auto trans, std key The Blade connections are straight forward, thanks to the pictorial! The 7000AS unit wiring has left me with a few questions... Here is the high current ignition harness schematic I have from the RS to the Auto: red to the white 50 Amp GREEN / WHITE to ??? RED / white to white 50 amp white to orange? blue to red? (change jumper to create ACC#2) yellow to blue green to green Black to chassis ground The GREEN / WHITE is for: "Pin 2 GREEN / WHITE - Programmable Output: This positive (+) parking light wire triggers when you lock, unlock, remote start, or during troubleshooting diagnostics. Note: This output is programmable and can provide a 2nd starter or (+) trunk release output. This is achieved using Jumpers located under the access door on top of the control module." What should I wire this GREEN / WHITE wire to? I'm sure I'll need diagnostics at some point or another, so parking light connection is desirable ... The Blade has an auto light control, but from what I've read it's nothing to do with the parking light wire...Bulldog security lists a red wire at the Dash Fuse Box green 44 pin plug at pin 31 as being the parking light (+). is that correct and is that where you'd "tap" into it? I noticed Bulldog Security lists the ACC wires opposite of what you've listed: orange as 1 and red as 2...does it matter as long as both are connected? Many thanks for your time!!!

Seems that they have made some updates to the firmware. The locks are handled a bit differently. Follow the Blade w/ HA6 Type 1 install diagram. Compustar       description              Accord red          +12V power in             to the white 50 Amp GREEN / WHITE (+) Parking Light        not used. Use the Accords (-) Parking Light wire. Info below. RED / white    +12V power in             to white 50 amp white        ACC1       to orange blue        ACC2       to red (change jumper to create ACC#2) yellow       Starter    to blue green        IGN1       to green Black        Chassis Ground            to chassis ground ACC1 and ACC2 ( Red and Orange ) don't matter which R/S wire powers them, as long as both get power. Use CN5 Pin 17 GREEN / WHITE (-) Parking Light output and connect to the (-) Parking Light wire shown in Pictorial.Soldering is fun!

THANKS! If you're ever around the Jersey shore I owe you a few beers. I'll do as suggested. I'd like to use the defrost/auto temp defrost as one of the POC's. Can I use the ADS-USB to designate the wires I use, and then change the defrost and duration in the options menu, or do I require the use of an OP500? "3-13 Defrost output Temperature Control: This feature will determine the temperature at which the CM7 will provide an output on any POC programmed with setting 17 or 21 (defrost and defrost 2)". I'll be using POC 1 (pin 1 blue/white wire) for the anti-grind/start kill relay I'll be using POC 2 (pin 3 white wire) for the horn How do I designate POC 3 (pin 5 blue/light green wire) as setting 17? Last thing I'm having trouble with...I'd like to control the windows (Up/Down/vent) with the R/S FOB. Is it best to integrate a module like a T535, or can it be done through the R/S? (I do not have control of my windows with the OEM key or its buttons like previous accord models) Again, thank you for your time and expertise!

Do you have the Thermistor temp probe? It connects to the CM7000 at CN8. You will need the probe if you wish to control the Defrost output at certain temps. They usually come in the 2-way RF remote kits. I believe that you can set those Special Option Group settings when you flash the Blade cartridge. Click on the "Configure My Starter" tab and scroll down to those groups. Remember to click on "Save Now" in each area that you change before un- plugging and exiting the program. There are 2 AUX outputs that you can configure for a specific output time ( 1-99 seconds ) that might be used for window roll up and down.Soldering is fun!