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2013-2014 Accord Remote Starter Install Pictorial


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crazyboom 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2017
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 05, 2017 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged  
I have the DAS, siren, and thermister...I plan on installing all of these but I'm not sure where/how to mount the thermister, any experience or ideas?
I'll look at programming when I get back home (Thursday)...I'll make sure I check that specific area and report back...
I'll also look into the aux as a window control...I assume they are (-) and latched...and will need to be connected near either the switches or kick panels...
crazyboom 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2017
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 10, 2017 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged  
Everything is going smoothly with the install. So crazy that I even gave a lot of thought to the thermister...it doesn't mount anywhere! Is sorta hangs from the control unit. I will ensure it isn't exposed to any excessive heat when I final mount the unit.
I have the defrost set to the "auto" mode, but have decided against a window module. I have the AUX 1 programmed to be controlled by one of the POC wires and would like to use that to vent the windows. It's set at 0.5 second pulse, and can be programmed for anywhere from 1-99 seconds. The wire provides a 250 mA (-) negative output. Is there a window module I could tap into, and would this require a relay? If not, would I need to run the wire to all four windows, and or relay for each one???
Thanks for any ideas...
crazyboom 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2017
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: April 16, 2017 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged  
Got a bit turned around on a friends similar install....
We are using the secondary ignition harness location in the DKP for "high power". When installing the anti-grind relay what end of the wire is the starter side and which is the key side. I don't have my multi-meter to check it ...I believe if I were to cut the wire that the wire that would still be attached to the harness is toward the starter and the "free standing" wire toward the key side, but can't afford to guess....
THANKS for the help!!!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,470
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 16, 2017 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  
If you are making the main ignition wire connections at the connector above the fuse box shown in the Pictorial,
you are correct. The Blue Starter wire would be cut. Connect the R/S "Key side" on the end on the Blue wire no
longer connected to that White plug and the "Car/Starter side" of the R/S wires to the end of the Blue wire
still going into that White connector at the fuse box.
Soldering is fun!
crazyboom 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2017
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: April 20, 2017 at 9:07 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks again for the conformation on the wiring...
Just spoke to my buddy and he is very satisfied with his compustar install. The only concern he has is that the interior dashboard lights have gone to full bright and the "stem" that controls the intensity isn't functioning... He has limited trouble shooting capability and aside from checking the fuses hasn't accomplished much...Has anyone experienced this? My first thoughts are to recheck the fuses and then look into the light wiring. The only light wire that was used was wire "17" and the wire from the control module in the steering column. I'm not sure if it's the wire or something else, but everything else is working as advertised...I'll also take the OP-500 and see if there isn't some type of setting manipulation that will rectify the situation.... All thoughts/ideas are appreciated!!!
mhunguyen 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: February 27, 2016
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: August 11, 2017 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged  
I finally put the starter on the Honda 2016 (Standard Key) using ADS ALCA(version HA6) and Viper 4806V. Having one slight problem and was hoping someone could help out. The R/S would start the car find, but the remote starter automatically shuts off after around 60 seconds. After it shuts off, it attempted to start up the engine again, however, the engine only cranks and do not start. Just wondering if anyone know what could be wrong? I do not have the hood pin connected yet, so i'm not sure if this is the main cause?
Thanks in advance
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,470
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 12, 2017 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  
The Hood Pin is not the issue. It would prevent the Viper from attempting to crank the engine first time.
A few questions and suggestions...
1. Are you going W2W or D2D between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA?
     With D2D, you must flash the ADS AL-CA with the DBI HA6 firmware and set the ADS AL-CA to Data Mode.
     If you are going W2W, then either DBI HA6 or ADS HA6 is OK but all connections between the Viper and the
     ADS AL-CA would have to be hard wired and the bypass module set to Standard Mode.
2. As for the Hood Pin, the ADS AL-CA will provide that signal from the data it picks up on the Accords CAN Bus.
     You should be using this signal as your Vipers Hood Pin input. It is a safety type signal to prevent the Viper
     from remote starting the engine while the hood is open.
3. Are you running the Viper in Tach Mode?   The ADS AL-CA does supply a nice Tach signal and you should be
     using this input and Viper Tach Mode to remote start the car. There might be some Viper programming changes
     required along with performing the Tach Learn process.
Soldering is fun!
mhunguyen 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: February 27, 2016
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: August 20, 2017 at 7:41 PM / IP Logged  
Hi Kreg,
1 - I am using D2D onthe Viper and ADS AL-CA using firmware HA6 and Diagram 1 based on iDatalink link guide.
2 - Yes, I agree hood pin isn't the issue.
3. Originally, I had the Viper in Virtual Tach mode, but switched it to Voltage mode. How would I be able to connect the tach between the Viper and ADS ALCA? I would need to connect the Viper Tach Input (VIOLET/WHITE) to ADS ALCA purple/white wire?
I soddered all the wires and right now have a problem with the starter. When I start the car using the Remote Starter, it starts. However, when I start using the Key, it does not start. What could cause this issue? I'm think it could be an issue with the ignition wires. Right now I have the vehicle's ignition wire (Green) cut and the connector side is connected to ADS ALCA WHITE/RED and PINK. The Vehicle's Connector side is connected to ADS ALCA WHITE/BLACK and to Viper's Ignition wire (Pink)
Thanks in advance for the hep
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,470
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 21, 2017 at 9:04 PM / IP Logged  
Well, lets go slow so we don't overlook anything.
First the ADS AL-CA should be flashed with the DBI AL(DL)-HA6 firmware. The ADS AL(DL)-HA6 firmware
is not compatable with your Viper 4806 in D2D mode.
Next, the ADS AL-CA must be set to Data Mode as shown at the top of Page 27 of the Install Guide ( #4543 ).
After that the actual bypass to vehicle programming can be done.
As you mentioned, you will be following the Type 1 Install diagram. Of major importance is the fact the the D2D
harness connection will handle all of the dashed Red lines shown.    Only the necessaary solid Black lines are
hardwired.
This means that the Tach signal created by the bypass module will be passed to the Viper 4806 via the D2D harness.
Once the bypass module is programmed to the car, this Tach signal can be used by the Viper to properly control its'
Starter output signal length to start the engine. Of course the Viper should have the Tach Learn process completed
successfully before attempting a remote start. Here is the process :
Learning the Tach (not needed with Virtual Tach)
To learn the tach signal:
1. Start the vehicle with the key.
2. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Control button.
3. After 3 seconds the status LED on your Control Center lights constant when the tach signal is learned.
4. Release the Control button.
Important: This unit can learn the tachometer with the analog input or through D2D
using an interface module. The unit confirms which source is used by flashing the
parking lights.
When programming tach learning with:
• Analog, the parking lights flash one time.
• D2D interface module, the parking lights flash twice.
If the tachometer input on the system is connected to the vehicle, the D2D tachometer input is ignored
Notice that the ADS AL-CA has a Hood Status output wire shown in dashed Red. This means that this signal
is passed to the Viper via the D2D harness. It's there and the Viper should see and use it. If the hood is open,
the Viper will not attempt a remote start up.
The same thing holds true for the bypass modules EBrake status output. It is automatically supplied to the
Viper. The Viper uses this signal as it's Neutral Safety input and will not attempt a remote start unless the
EBrake is engaged.
You have me a bit confused by this statement : " Right now I have the vehicle's ignition wire (Green) cut and
the connector side is connected to ADS ALCA WHITE/RED and PINK."
I have the feeling that you have
made a big mistake here. Please remember that there are two connectors at the ignition switch. The main
ignition wires are in one 6 Pin connector and are all thick ( 12 gauge wires ). These wires get the thick ignition
wires from the Vipers Remote Start, 8-pin connector. The other connector at the ignition switch, has 7 pins and
is the one that has thin gauge wires ( includes the CAN High and Low wires ) and is used by the ADS AL-CA. This
thin Ignition wire gets cut and has the wires you mentioned above connected. This thin Ignition wire is Brown, not
Green.
So, here are the highlights.
1. The ADS AL-CA must be flashed with the DBI firmware and you will use the corresponding DBI install guide.
2. The ADS AL-CA must be set to Data Mode after the firmware flash and prior to vehicle programming.
3. The Tach, Hood and EBrake signals are automatically supplied to the Viper.
4. The Viper should be programmed to Tach Mode ( Menu 3, Feature 2, Option 4 ) and the Tach Learn process
      must be run.
5. There is no need to cut any of the vehicles thick ignition wires ( unless you wanted Starter Kill /Anti-Grind ).
6. Ensure you are making the ADS AL-CA connections on the correct 7 Pin ignition switch connector.
Soldering is fun!
maikoatx 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: August 24, 2017
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 24, 2017 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged  
pts accord, there a way to bypass the honda setup n remote start your car, get in n drive. 2013 to 2015.
maiko
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