Toyota Supra Remote Start Viper 5706v

smokeman1 wrote: So that it can supply a 12 volts through the Viper to the Pink/White wire.

Lol I guess what confused me is ign 1 is not a constant 12v but ign 2 is?

Any help on the other issues?

I found the disarm wire. Can anyone help with the other issues?

What other issues are you asking about?When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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The wire that us supposed to be the horn, isn't. I check it and several 9ther wires running under the steering column and no luck. Also I cannot even find the theft ecu on pass kick, let along the hood trigger wire.

Here is a wire listing from a different source than your listing. 1. Horn(-) is listed as white (-) 2. Maybe your Supra does not have a Theft Module. Run the Hood wire out to the engine compartment with the supplied hood pin. 1997 Toyota Supra Last Update: 2/12/2009    Circuit Wire Color Location    Constant 12 volts WHITE & WHITE/ RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Ignition 12 volts BLACK/ WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Starter BLACK/ RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Dome Light RED / WHITE (-) 15 PIN CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL Driver's Front Door Pin    Pass Front Door Pin    Driver's Rear Door Pin    Pass Rear Door Pin    Trunk Pin L GREEN (-) 13 PIN CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL OEM Hood Pin    Parking Lamp (+) GREEN (+) 16 PIN CONNECTOR AT FUSE BLOCK Parking Lamp (-)    Lock RED / WHITE 16 PIN BLUE CONNECTOR Unlock GREEN/ RED IN DRIVER KICK PANEL * #209    * Child Safety Locks - BLUE/WHITE (-) In Same Connector As Door Lock Wires Above. #209- See Child Safety Locks Diagram.    Tach Signal BLACK/ WHITE AT IGNITER OR ENGINE CONTROL MODULE *    Ignition Coil (-)    Injector (-)    Ignition #2 BLACK / YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Ignition #3 N/A Accessory GREEN IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Accessory #2    Accessory #3    Starter #2    Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT Brake Light GREEN / WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL Parking Brake    Clutch Pedal    Reverse Light RED / BLACK (+) 13 PIN ORANGE CONN. IN DR. KICK PANEL Rear Defrost N/A Immobilizer Type    * Turbo Models - Tach Wire Is BLACK/ WHITE At Engine Control Module Located Below Passenger Dash. Non Turbo Models - Tach Wire IS BLACK/ WHITE At Igniter On Driver Strut Tower. On Both Models Tach Wire Can Also Be Found In 38 Pin Orange Connector Below Passenger Dash.    Window Up   D\ RED / WHITE P\ RED / BLUE @ MAIN #211    Window Down R/ GREEN/ YELLOW S/ GREEN / WHITE SWITCH Trunk Release N/A    Keysense YELLOW (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS OEM Horn WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS Headlights RED OR YELLOW/RED (-) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH OEM Alarm Arm WHITE (-) 16 PIN BLUE CONNECTOR * OEM Alarm Disarm GREEN/ YELLOW (-) IN DRIVER KICK PANEL Vehicle Speed Sense    OEM Keyless Module - NO OEM KEYLESS PRESENT IN SCHEMATICS    Motor Lock N/A Motor All Unlock N/A Motor Driver Unlock (disarm defeat) BLUE/RED 16 PIN CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL * Trunk Release Disarm    OEM Lock Relays - DOOR LOCK CONTROL UNIT LOCATED IN PASSENGER KICK PANEL Add On Security Type N/A    * Circuit Type - Reversal Rest At Ground. When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thank you I will try another horn wire. And while I'd like to avoid hood pin, it's starting to look like my only option. How bad is it to keep that ign to something other than constant? The car remote starts fine as it is now. Thanks again.

I don't understand your question. (How bad is it to keep that ign to something other than constant?)When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Currently I have my pink/white hooked up to BLACK/ orange (ign 2) not a 12v constant. It works but is this something I need to change to 12v constant?

The pink/white IS NOT suppose to be connected to a 12volt constant source. It is a output to your ignition 2 wire.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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