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Avital 4113 Install on 2013 Highlander G Key


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esaah6 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: December 17, 2016
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 17, 2016 at 11:37 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote esaah6
Hello everyone. I'm attempting this Avital 4113 remote start install on a 2013 Toyota Highlander G key (not smart key) with a seperate OEM fob that controls locks, trunk, and alarm. I would like to use the rear defogger with the remote start, but I don't know where the wire is in the car. Also, not sure if it's worth it to connect to tach wire or just use Virtual Tach and save myself 20 minutes work. Please give me some advise and review my diagrams if you get a chance. I would really appreciate it. Thank you all!
Main Harness, 9-pin connector
1 LIGHT GREEN BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM      to Keysense (-) via relay
2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM      to Keysense (-) via relay
3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)      to Heavy Gauge Relay (H2/1) Output to primary ignition
4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT      Not Used
5 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN LOCKED/ANTI-GRIND OUTPUT      Not Used
6 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUT      to GRAY (-) @ Dash Fuse Box
7 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT      Not Used
8 BLACK GROUND      to chassis ground
9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT      set jumper/fuse to (-) and connect to BLUE (-) @ HEAD LIGHT SWITCH
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) LOCK      Not Used
2 EMPTY      Not Used
3 GREEN (-) UNLOCK      to GREEN (-) Type B IN KICK PANEL
High Gauge, 6-pin connector
1 PINK(+) Output to primary ignition      to BLACK Ignition 1 (+)
2 PURPLE **(+) OUTPUT TO Starter      to YELLOW (+) Starter 1 and RED (+) starter 2 via relay
3 ORANGE(+) output to Acc.      to GRAY (+) Acc.
4 RED (+) 12V input      to constant 12V
5 PINK/WHITE (+) output      to BLUE(+) Ignition 2 (using program Feature6 w/Option2)
6 RED (+) 12V input      to constant 12V
Satellite harness, 4-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT      to BLUE (-) status PKALL
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT      not used
3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT      not used
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT      not used
Remote Start harness, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT      to Chassis Ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE      Not sure if I want to use it
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE      to BLUE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL       
4 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE      to supplied hood pin
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER      to...wish I knew
Avital 4113 Install on 2013 Highlander G Key -- posted image.
Let's do this!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 18, 2016 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Here is some info on the Rear Defrost wire. Test with DMM to verify.
Rear Defrost WHITE (- LATCHED) PASSENGER KICK GRAY 20 PIN CONN, PIN 20 & 16
Does your Highlander have the Factory Alarm? If yes, use (-) Status Output to Keysense to turn off during remote start. The
4113 will only output an Unlock while the engine is running under a remote start, so the alarm is already disarmed.
Main Harness, 9-pin connector
1 LIGHT GREEN BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM        not used
2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM not used
3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)        not used
4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT  Not Used
5 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN LOCKED/ANTI-GRIND OUTPUT    Not Used
6 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUTto GRAY (-) @ Dash Fuse Box
7 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Not Used
8 BLACK GROUNDto chassis ground
9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT set jumper/fuse to (-)   to BLUE (-) @ HEAD LIGHT SWITCH
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) LOCK  Not Used
2 EMPTY      Not Used
3 GREEN (-) UNLOCK  to GREEN (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL BLACK 18 PIN CONN, PIN 9 ( set 4113 to Double Unlock Pulse )
High Gauge, 6-pin connector
1 PINK(+) Output to primary ignition       to BLACK Ignition 1 (+)
2 PURPLE **(+) OUTPUT TO Starter  to YELLOW (+) Starter 1
3 ORANGE(+) output to Acc. to GRAY (+) Acc.
4 RED (+) 12V input        to constant 12V
5 PINK/WHITE (+) output     to Light BLUE(+) Ignition 2 (using program Feature6 with default Option 1)
6 RED (+) 12V input        to constant 12V
Satellite harness, 4-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT to BLUE (-) status PKALL and Keysense LT BLUE (-) IGNITION SWITCH WHITE 2 PIN CONN, PIN 1
thru 1N4001 diode, bands towards the 4113.
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT     not used
3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT       To Starter2 relay, Pin 85
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT        not used
Remote Start harness, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT      to Chassis Ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRELT BLUE OBDII WHITE 16 PIN CONN, PIN 9
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE  to BLUE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL       
4 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE  to supplied hood pin
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER   WHITE (- LATCHED) PASSENGER KICK GRAY 20 PIN CONN, PIN 20 or 16 *
* Program to Latched Defrost
Starter2 Relay wiring :
Relay Pin 85 to 4113 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Starter2 Red @ Ign Switch Harness
Soldering is fun!
esaah6 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: December 17, 2016
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 20, 2016 at 8:19 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote esaah6
Wow. Thanks a ton Kreg. This will definitely help. I owe you big time!Avital 4113 Install on 2013 Highlander G Key -- posted image.
Let's do this!
esaah6 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2016
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 22, 2016 at 9:23 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote esaah6
Hi again, Kreg. I have updated my schematic for the wiring. I hope someone else will be able to use it someday. Please let me know if it looks good. I'm not 100% sure if I got the diode in the correct position.
Avital 4113 Install on 2013 Highlander G Key -- posted image.
Let's do this!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 22, 2016 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Nice diagram! Looks good and the diode is oriented correctly ( cathode ( or band ) towards the Avital ). This will block Keysense from a regular key insertion from turning on the PKALL bypass function but allow the Avital to turn on Keysense during a remote start.
Soldering is fun!
esaah6 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: December 17, 2016
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Posted: December 23, 2016 at 8:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote esaah6
Thanks again Kreg! I just donated $10 to you guys. Sites like this are what make the internet invaluable. I'll let you know how the install goes. Merry Christmas!
Let's do this!
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 1:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
esaah6 wrote:
Thanks again Kreg! I just donated $10 to you guys. Sites like this are what make the internet invaluable. I'll let you know how the install goes. Merry Christmas!
kreg357 wrote:
Nice diagram! Looks good and the diode is oriented correctly ( cathode ( or band ) towards the Avital ). This will block Keysense from a regular key insertion from turning on the PKALL bypass function but allow the Avital to turn on Keysense during a remote start.
Out of curiosity, why not go to the arm/disarm wires on the Highlander instead of the Keysense wire?
Also, if a remote start module has Arm/Disarm wires, would the lock/unlock wires still need to be connected? Or can you use the arm/disarm wires for the power door lock/unlock function as well to enter and exit the vehicle?
Bulldog Security wiring said the Tach is "not required for remote starting." What does that mean?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 1:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
I believe that the Arm and Disarm wires are the actual input wires from the drivers side key lock cylinder. Using them will
actually unlock the car. Using Keysense will only turn off the factory alarm. Remember that the 4113 is a one button R/S
system. It will start the engine so using Keysense is the most direct way to disarm the alarm. Additionally, as a one button
system, it does not handle Lock at all and will only do an Unlock while the engine is running under remote start. When the 4113
can do an Unlock, the alarm is already off.
You are correct in using the Arm and Disarm wires instead of the Lock and Unlock wires with a normal 4 button R/S install.
I would still use the Lock and Unlock wires because the Arm and Disarm wires have slightly different functions ( there will be
an Arm output after a R/S shutdown, there is a Disarm before a trunk release, etc. )
Soldering is fun!
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 4:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
kreg357 wrote:
I believe that the Arm and Disarm wires are the actual input wires from the drivers side key lock cylinder. Using them will
actually unlock the car. Using Keysense will only turn off the factory alarm. Remember that the 4113 is a one button R/S
system. It will start the engine so using Keysense is the most direct way to disarm the alarm. Additionally, as a one button
system, it does not handle Lock at all and will only do an Unlock while the engine is running under remote start. When the 4113
can do an Unlock, the alarm is already off.
You are correct in using the Arm and Disarm wires instead of the Lock and Unlock wires with a normal 4 button R/S install.
I would still use the Lock and Unlock wires because the Arm and Disarm wires have slightly different functions ( there will be
an Arm output after a R/S shutdown, there is a Disarm before a trunk release, etc. )
Got it. Thanks for the clarification.
I noticed on some R/S modules, there is an Arm after Start/Lock wire and a separate Arm after Shutdown wire. Must vary from alarm to alarm.
esaah6 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2016
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 03, 2017 at 7:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote esaah6
Hi Folks. Happy New Year! Well, I finally completed the wiring and everything works beautifully. Kreg, you da man! My fingers, back, and neck are killing me, but you know what they say: No Pain, No Gain.
Just two minor things:
1) When I shutdown the remote-start, the headlights stay on until someone physically opens then closes the door.
2) I couldn't find the horn wire. According to bulldog, it should be a gray wire at pin 11 on a white 16-pin plug in the dash fuse box.
Let's do this!
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