2006 Acura tl dball2/clifford 4706x problems (resolved)

For testing the Viper problem, you must have a computer safe test light or Digital Multi Meter and a basic understanding of what is supposed to happen during a remote start. Basically it's the same as a regular key start up. There is a set sequence of power that happens at the ignition switch. 1. Key inserted, Keysense comes ON 2. Key is turned to ACC - Both ACC circuits come ON 3. Key is turned to ON or RUN - both ACC circuits stay ON and IGN comes ON 4. Key is turned to START - both ACC circuits drop out, IGN stays ON and Starter comes ON. 5. Engine starts, key is returned to ON or RUN - Starter drops, ACC's go back to ON, IGN stays ON The checks would be to see if the Viper is doing this. The guess is that the Pink IGN output is dead and does nothing, hence the car cranks but does not stay running. OK. Here we go. I am making assumptions based on your info. The remote starts works if the key is in and turned to on. That usually indicates that an Ignition type wire is not getting powered properly. Because of the original mis-wiring, connecting a Viper (+) output to a Viper (-) output, it is possible that damaged the Viper and it will no longer output any Ignition signals. You aren't a professional installer with a spare unit on the shelf. Viper will never warrant a unit that was DIY installed. So we will try to salvge your current system. The work around. Lucky for you, your vehicle only needs one Ignition type connection. The primary Viper output, Pink IGN1, is dead. So instead of using the Viper Flex output, Pink/White, for ACC2 we will use it for the TL's very necessary IGN1 circuit. Again, the Pink is dead so disconnect it and don't use it. Disconnect the Pink/White from the ACC2 wire and connect that Pink/White to the IGN1 circuit wire. Re-program the Viper so that the Flex output is back to IGN and give it a try. If that works you can get a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay with harness and in-line fuse to power the TL's ACC2 circuit. Wire as below : Relay Pin 85 to Viper Orange (-) 200mA Accessory output Relay Pin 86 and Pin 87 to +12V constant Relay Pin 30 to TL ACC2 wire Relay Pin 87a not used - insulateSoldering is fun!

thank you so much, i'm gonna give all this a shot after work today and i will report back with how it turns out. thanks again for taking the time to type everything out, i really appreciate it

just wanted to give a little update. after work today i tried your work around by unhooking the Pink viper wire and swapping it with the pink/white viper wire. i spliced the dball2 pink wire into the pink/white viper wire, went to try and reprogram the viper to menu 3, feature 8 and option 1 and the viper control center led would only rapidly blink and not allow programming until i hooked power back to the pink viper wire. did that and reprogrammed and unhooked the pink wire again. i hit the remote start and the car turned over and cranked, but would only stay running for about 1 second and cuts off. so the work around has actually helped out because before i couldn't get to actually crank at all.

Any Security type lights on the instrument cluster, like a flashing green key symbol, during the remote start? If yes, try a remote start with the key inserted but not turned in the ignition switch. Might be a Tach issue. I like to run in Tach Mode using a proper Tach signal from the car. You could connect the Tach wire, program to Tach Mode, do a Tach Learn and try a remote start. Being as the Viper needs to see an IGN signal from the car for programming purposes, you could get a 1N4004 diode and connect the thick Pink wire, with the diode in-line, band towards the Viper, to the thick Pink/White. That IGN input sense function seems to be still working.Soldering is fun!

i didn't notice any security light on but i will double check to make sure, i know before hand it would start with the key in the ignition switched to the On position. i'll give the tach wire a shot, do you know off the top of your head what color wire the tach wire connects to on the car? yeah i was figuring the pink viper wire must still be good since it was sensing it wasn't hooked up. it just didn't make sense to me why it would only turn over with how it was wired before, but when i did your work around it would actually crank for a second.

just double checked and i receive one quick flash of the green key symbol after the remote start fails

Here is some Tach wire info. If I remember correctly, getting through the firewall is a PITA. TACH Any wire NOT YELLOW/BLACK (AC) @ Any FUEL-INJECTOR Tach Signal    BLUE/RED   AT ECM MODULE * *ECM is Located On Passengers Side Behind Center Console. Tach Is In A WHITE Connector It Is The Wire Closest To The FirewallSoldering is fun!

yeah you definitely remember correctly about getting through the firewall, it's a pain for sure. but luckily enough i should be able to get through it pretty easy because i already have a wire running through from when i wired up my fog lights that are inside the headlight to be able to come on independently of the headlight. i still might try and just hook up to the ecm if it's any easier to get to.

so far today i have wired in the tach wire and programmed it, still the same result. so i figured i'd try going back and wiring it back the original way just got a shot ion the dark. it went right back to only turning over, but i also noticed when wired back the original way the gauge lights never come on when trying to remote start, didn't have that issue when i had it wired up with the work around method.

just received my SPDT relays in the mail. with the work around you described, do you think that by wiring the relay in to the orange (-) acc output that it will have any effect on my cranking but not staying running?