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2006 Acura tl dball2/clifford 4706x problems (resolved)


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 24, 2016 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged  
No, ACC1 and ACC2 should have no effect on that issue. Typically it's Tach or Transponder, assuming the Ignition wiring is OK. I would get a diode and connect the thick Pink wire up to the Pink/White. That could be the issue.
You might try a R/S with the keyhead held next to the ignition switch to see if it is a transponder issue. I don't use DB-ALL2's so I'm not familiar with them.
Soldering is fun!
bdubwiley 
Member - Posts: 32
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Joined: December 19, 2016
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 24, 2016 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged  
aight thanks, i'll have to try that as well then. i was wondering if it could be a key/transponder issue but when i purchased the car i was only giving one key. but it is supposed to be the master key because it has the V in it. the d-ball2 lights up correctly when i try to program it for the key. but i'm starting to wonder if maybe the dball2 isn't a pert of my problem. which bypass module do you usually use for your installs?
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 5:48 AM / IP Logged  
For that application, I use an iDatalink ADS DL flashed with the ADS DL-HA1 firmware.
You could try switching to Tach Mode = Fixed and give it a 1 second crank time. See if that works.
Soldering is fun!
bdubwiley 
Member - Posts: 32
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Joined: December 19, 2016
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 1:01 PM / IP Logged  
was checking out the idatalink module, and the wiring on it. seems like the only difference in wiring on them is that that Pink Ignition input wire from the idatalink wires into the 6th pin on the 7pin immobilizer harness, where on the dball2 it's telling you to wire the Pink Ignition input wire into the remote starts Pink Ignition 1 output
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 3:57 PM / IP Logged  
Possibly a dumb question, but the DB-ALL2 Pink wire at Pin 9 of the Black 10 Pin connector, did you connect that to the thick Pink/White Avital wire?
Soldering is fun!
bdubwiley 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2016
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 4:34 PM / IP Logged  
yeah i sure did, originally had it wired to the thick Pink viper wire, but when i did your work around i hooked it to the pink/white. from looking at the wiring on the idatalink and fortin modules, both of those use the Ignition Input wire from the bypass modules to Pin 6 of the immobilizer harness. but the dball2 doesn't have it written that way in their installation sheet.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged  
In the case of the iDatalink, I believe that the connection is used mostly for module programming.
I'm wondering if the Viper brain is cooked and our work around in vain...
Does the Viper provide any type of R/S ShutDown code / info that might provide a direction to go in?
Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 4:53 PM / IP Logged  
Remote Start Shutdown/Startup Diagnostics
To perform shutdown diagnostics:
1. With the ignition Off, press and hold the Control button.
2. Turn the ignition On and then back Off while holding the Control button.
3. Release the Control button.
4. Press and release the Control button. The status LED flashes to report the last
   shutdown for one minute or until the ignition is turned on, as shown in the
   following table:
Status LED Flashes Shutdown Mode
1 flash Runtime expired
2 flashes Over-rev shutdown
3 flashes Low or no RPM
4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown
6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown
7 flashes Timer mode/Turbo mode/Manual mode error *
8 flashes Neutral safety shutdown
9 flashes Low battery (voltage mode)
11 flashes Wait-to-start input timed out
Soldering is fun!
bdubwiley 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2016
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged  
would you like me to test that with the original wiring or wired with the work around?
bdubwiley 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2016
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  
i know the last time i tried it wired in the work around method, it would just try to start 3 times, then after not staying running on the 3 it just switched on the remote to "remote start off". i don't recall any flashes on the control after that. but i can wire it back up that way and try again just to check if need be.
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