2015 Honda Pilot EX L, Viper 4606 Install

Can anyone provide the install diagram for a 2015 Honda Pilot installing a Viper 4606? Im using a Idatalink DBI-ALDL for bypass. Its already programmed to HA3. I can wire it. Its the 4606 im not 100% positive on. Especially the 8 pin Heavy connector. Do i hook yellow to the violet? What others do i need of that connector as well? Also what do i need to wire on other connectors to get it to lock unlock etc and run power liftgate. I cant really find a direct wire diagram for it. I read possibly ill need a couple diodes for unlock function? the DBI ALDL im just going to run D2D and wire it to the green connector. Thank you and greatly appreciate timeEric M

PILOT      2009-2016 KEY      T-HARNESS      IMMOBILIZER N/A      N/A      HONDA'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, VEHICLES 2015 AND UP REQUIRE A DBALL2 INTERFACE FOR REMOTE STARTING. See NOTE #1 PART      COLOR      LOCATION      DIAGRAM 12 VOLT CONSTANT      WHITE (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 2       STARTER      YELLOW (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 1       STARTER 2      N/A            IGNITION 1      PINK (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 5       IGNITION 2      N/A            IGNITION 3      N/A            ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1      ORANGE (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 3       ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2      RED (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4       KEYSENSE      N/A            PARKING LIGHTS ( - )      GRAY (-) (REQUIRES #775 RELAY)      @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11       PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      GRAY (+)      @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT. GREEN, 42-Pin Plug) Pin 19       POWER LOCK      PINK (TYPE B), See NOTE #2      @ POWER WINDOW Master Switch, (GRAY, 37-Pin Plug) Pin 28       POWER UNLOCK      WHITE (-) and RED (-) TYPE B, (DOUBLE PULSE Required), See NOTE #2      @ POWER WINDOW Master Switch, (GRAY, 37-Pin Plug) Pins 29 and 31       LOCK MOTOR WIRE      LIGHT GREEN (5-wire type)            DOOR TRIGGER      YELLOW (-)      @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT. GREEN, 42-Pin Plug) Pin 37       DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION      PINK (-)      Above DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (GRAY, 2-Pin Plug) Pin 1       TRUNK RELEASE      ORANGE (-) (Liftgate) NOTE #3 and #4      @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT. GREEN, 42-Pin Plug) Pin 13       SLIDING POWER DOOR      N/A            HORN      GRAY (-)      @ HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1       TACH      Any wire NOT YELLOW/BLACK (AC)      @ Any FUEL-INJECTOR       WAIT TO START LIGHT      N/A            BRAKE      LIGHT BLUE (+)      @ BRAKE SWITCH or DASH FUSE BOX, (LT. GREEN, 42-Pin Plug) Pin 34       FACTORY ALARM DISARM      DISARMS with UNLOCK            ANTI-THEFT      HONDA'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, See NOTE #1      @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER       NOTES NOTE #1: HONDA'S TRANSPONDER SYSTEM, Requires Bypass Module: (For Remote Starting Only) Part #791 Bypass, (Requires Extra Key) for Operation. (For Remote Starting Only) Part # PK-ALL Bypass. (No Extra Key Required for Operation) 2-KEYS Required to Program Module. (For Remote Starting/Door Locks) Part # DBALL2 (No Extra Key Required for Operation) 1-KEY Required for Programming. NOTE #2: METER THE DOORLOCK WIRES WHILE TURNING THE KEY IN THE DRIVERS DOOR CYLINDER. WHITE IS THE DRIVER DOOR KEY CYLINDER, WHITE IS THE UNLOCK WIRE AND THE RED IS THE DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION WIRE. USE BOTH WIRES AND DIODE ISOLATE EACH. NOTE #3: THE HATCH GLASS RELEASE WIRE, IS A PINK (-) LOCATED IN THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL, AT A WHITE, 18-PIN PLUG, PIN 8. TEST THESE WIRES WHILE OPENING THE LIFTGATE/HATCH GLASS FROM THE HANDLE ON THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. NOTE #4: ON VEHICLES WITH POWER TAILGATE, THE OPEN/CLOSE WIRES ARE BROWN (SWITCH) AND PURPLE to WHITE (COMMON), ABOVE THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL, IN A WHITE,24-PIN PLUG, PINS 20 AND 9. THESE WIRES SHORT WHEN THE SWITCH IS PRESSED. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135857~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Ok THis connector has park light flash wire. Main Harness, White 6-pin connector 1 RED (+)12V DC CONSTANT INPUT 2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND 3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT 4 WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - #87a NORMALLY CLOSED of onboard relay 5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT- #30 COMMON of onboard relay 6 ORANGE (-) 500 mA (GWA) GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT so if i set my viper to flash lights + polarity i just need to tie #5 white wire into this wire(PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      GRAY (+)      @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT. GREEN, 42-Pin Plug) Pin 19   ) and not need to relay the - wire? My door lock connector has 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT Do i need one or both of those and if so what ones tie into which unlock and sense wire with diode? Thank you for fast response. I can figure out the rest with that info.Eric M

To get a (+) Parking Light Output on that White wire, you must ensure the Parking Light Fuse/Jumper is set to (+). It is located under the sliding cover of the controller. The White/Brown wire will not be used for your application. No relay is needed. The Viper has an internal relay. If you are using an ADS AL-CA that has been flashed with the DBI DL HA3 firmware and going D2D between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA modules, there is no need to connect the Vipers Lock and Unlock wires to anything. The D2D harness handles the Viper to bypass module communications and the Bypass module to Pilot CAN wire connections handles the rest. Here is a link to the bypass module install guide ( follow Type 1 diagram ) :     http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA3/DBI-AL(DL)-HA3-EN_20170513.pdf Here is a link to a Pictorial on your Pilot using an ADS AL-CA bypass module. Your install will be the same except that you are going to use a (+) Parking Light wire instead of the (-) one used in the photos.     https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=144741 For the Viper thick Starter harness : Remote Start, White 8-pin connector 1 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT.................White @ Ignition Switch harness 2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT #87a................................not used 3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY..................................not used ( optional * ) 4 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT.......................................White @ Ignition Switch harness 5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT.....................................................Yellow @ Ignition Switch harness 6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT.............................................Red @ Ignition Switch harness 7 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / Flex............................White @ Ignition Switch harness 8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT............................................Pink @ Ignition Switch harness * The Pink/White wire can be used for the Red ACC2 wire if the Viper is Programmed accordingly.Soldering is fun!

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I bought a directed t harness for a DS4+ Setup off eBay for like $15 and cut off the ends that connect to DS 4. Let’s me T the ignition and Data connectors so I’ll have minimal wires to tap into. Figured for $15 it will save a bunch of wire time as well as make removal easy if I sell vehicle in future. So far as the power lift gate goes... It looks as the purple and brown wire short when the button is pressed according to the other post I see “On models with power tailgate, the open/close are brown (switch) and purple (com), above the driver kick, white 24 pin plug, pins 20 and 9 or white 16 pin plug, pins 1 and 5. These wires short when the switch is pressed. “ For that should I take a - accessory output from viper and use 2 diodes to send a - signal to them both? Or use a relay to short them? The factory fob or switch in door need long pressed to open gate. Sounds like a simple install. You all are awesome and it’s greatly appreciated Thank you.Eric M

I think before I got carried away, I would see what the Viper Trunk Release button and the ADS AL-CA do. While the Pilot in the Pictorial did not have a power liftgate, the R/S system did pop the rear glass panel when the R/S Trunk Release button was pressed. Going by the DL HA3 install guide, it does call its' output signal Trunk/Hatch Release and Trunk/Liftgate so it might just handle the power liftgate. If it does not, you can always add that feature. I would use a mini-relay controlled by either the Trunk Release output or an AUX output. You would need to verify the proper wires mentioned in that info you listed. No diodes would be necessary. Relay wiring below : Relay Pin 86 to +12 Constant Relay Pin 85 to Viper Trunk Release or AUX output Relay Pin 30 to either wire, say Brown Relay Pin 87 to either wire, say Purple The relay would do the same thing the Pilots Trunk Release switch does. Also check to see if the power liftgate actuates the alarm. You might have to do a Disarm prior to opening the rear hatch. The bypass module should do this for you if it opens the liftgate. Soldering is fun!

Ok. Makes sense. Sounds easy enough. Yeah this Pilot won’t open gate until unlocki/disarm from factory remote. I’ll make sure to disarm if I have to relay it which would definitely override that unlock only function if a relay forces the signal. If I didn’t already have the viper I’d of just went all idatalink with blade. I also have an Automate 5304a which is pretty much a Viper 5706v far superior to the 4606 but I don’t want the alarm function in this install. I’ll probably program my 2 way remotes to this viper after everything gets working. It’s a LCD remote. Anyhow thanks again for help. I’ll be sure to report on what works with this AL CA.Eric M

Ok. So i just noticed on page 3 of the idatalink DBI-AL instructions it requires a Ground When Running connection from the Viper. Would this be the dark blue wire (pin 5) on 24 pin connector of viper? And where do i connect this wire? Thanks Eric M

I'll give that a "conditional yes". Two things to mention : 1. If you are going D2D between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA, GWR to (-) Status Output is handled by the D2D harness. There is no reason to run a hardwire connection. If you are going W2W, then, yes, you must make the physical hardwire connection. 2. That note about the ADS AL-CA GWR input has to do with signal timing and not the connection type. It should not be an issue with a current model Viper system as they have the correct Status output timing.Soldering is fun!

So I grounded the black white wire pin 13 and everything works. It remote cranks and starts. Stays running. The odd issue though is the ADS-AL CA is constantly buzzing/clicking like a relay or something inside it is going off. This is while it’s running only. This can’t be norm I’d guess. Any thoughts?Eric M