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2011 Mazda 3 Aftermarket Keyless Entry Issues


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alexandertg 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2020
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 20, 2020 at 1:28 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote alexandertg
kreg357 wrote:
I am not familiar with your RKE unit. Can you post the install guide? I would like to see the outputs and their polarity. You diagram is nice but not too helpful in this respect.
Any way, your car has a one-wire door lock system. You have the correct wire if Unlock works OK. You just need the 1k ohm resistor to get the Lock function working. You might not need a relay for the horn. Depending on the Parking Light output you can go to either of two wires.
Thanks for verifying this. I wanted to connect two relays, one from the parking lights then one to the horn so that it's honking very briefly, say .03 seconds and not 2 second like it does if i connect directly to it.
Alexander The Great
djdeito 
Copper - Posts: 100
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Joined: February 19, 2019
Posted: February 20, 2020 at 1:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote djdeito
2011 Mazda 3 Aftermarket Keyless Entry Issues - Page 2 -- posted image.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 20, 2020 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Yes, the locks diagram will work as long as the lock relays input ( Yellow and Yellow/Black ) is to Chassis Ground.
You must use the cars (+) Parking Light wire being as your RKE's system output is (+).
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )     ORANGE (+)     in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Harness to REAR of Vehicle   
Using a relay to convert one of the Parking Light outputs to (-) to beep the horn might provide a longer beep than you want.
Soldering is fun!
djdeito 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 19, 2019
Posted: February 21, 2020 at 8:27 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote djdeito
Thanks for pointing this out kreg357. As an alternate option, if the keyless entry module ( Yellow and Yellow/Black ) is NOT Chassis Ground, he could use two relays to convert the positive door lock/unlock outputs to negative door lock/unlock outputs.
alexandertg 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2020
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 21, 2020 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote alexandertg
I was able to hook up the keyless entry. PITA! Finding a power source and ground, no problem, finding the stupid door lock wire and parking light wire, royal pain. The parking lights wire is located way in the upper back behind the BCM tied to the firewall with a push in fastener, its a square harness. This "in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Harness to REAR of Vehicle" is too vague. There too many harnesses "to REAR of Vehicle" with a orange wires. I removed the BCM and was able to solder the wire into place, very limited space. Now the unlock wire, I was unable to find it. "in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, (BLUE, 24-PIN PLUG(F), PIN D" was not the wire, I tried every green wire in that plug and no go. I ended up running a wire from the door unlock switch. Passed it right through the door jam boot seal and through a empty space on the harness. Everything is so crammed I could not see what wire the green with black line (Unlock Switch Wire) goes to because it changes colors in the harness. So thanks for everyone that helped. What I would like to do in the future is hook up the horn so that it briefly honks on lock. I left a wire under the dash so I can eventually connect it somehow. So again thanks everyone!
Alexander The Great
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