2001 Jeep Cherokee, Viper 5806V

firefighter1466 wrote: Also for the White/Tan above the brake, there are 2 going into the same slot in the harness connector. Do I need to tie into both of them, or just one will suffice? I would think one since they're going in together.

If they are combined at the connector, you can use either one. This is only an input wire for the Viper and doesn't draw any current.Soldering is fun!

On the Yellow (-) Door Pin wire, the thick wire in the DKP doesn't look right. One wire listing indicates it will be in a Gray 2 Pin connector. It is easy enough to test it using the DMM as described previously. The correct wire will show +12V when the door is open.Soldering is fun!

Should most wires be similarly sized or will there be a few that may be smaller/larger than each other?Jon

On your older Jeep, I would think most will be nearly the same size. The Parking Light wire might be slightly different gauge. Obviously, any big differences should be re-checked/verified with the DMM. Some newer cars do have major differences in the ignition wires.Soldering is fun!

The parking light was slightly larger. It was a much smaller wire inside of the headlight switch and the white wire from my kit was right much larger. The only other one that I can think of right off hand is the brown wire that goes through the firewall to the siren. They designed these to go together, but the red wire is super small compared to that brown wire. I think most everything else has matched up one for one. Got a few more to go and I'll be able to test everything before mounting the box. I would imagine once I get everything wired, I can reconnect the battery, close the hood (hood pin switch), connect the harnesses to the box and then connect the control center piece to it and do the program? I would imagine I should be able to fire it up like normal before even doing that to make sure that everything is connected correctly for the ignition portion. I feel most confident in the ignition wires and others because they stood out more than all of the other column wires as they were thicker gauge wire and matched up with the harnesses.Jon

Sequence sounds good. I usually do the install hot and just leave the fuses out of the R/S unit. Once everything is connected, you can test with a Lock and Unlock. The door locks should work and the Parking Lights should flash. You can also test the Viper alarm function and siren. The remote start function is in-op due to the Viper being in Manual Transmission Mode. Next would be Viper programming. Set to Auto Trans and Tach Mode. Then start the engine with the key and allow to warm up. Turn it off and the do the Tach Learn. If successful, turn off the vehicle and try a remote start. Test the Brake shutdown and the hood pin shutdown.Soldering is fun!

Re the yellow door wire. I didn't find a gray 3 pin connector, but I found a 2 pin connector behind the kick plate that runs along the floor next to the side trim at the bottom. When the park lights are on and the door is open the door makes a dinging sound. When I disconnect this plug the sound goes off. When I close the door this sound goes off. Would this be the correct yellow wire? I have attached an image. I don't have an exposed 12v constant to tap into in order to test unless you have a better alternative for testing. Jon

Also - RE: Next would be Viper programming. Set to Auto Trans and Tach Mode. Then start the engine with the key and allow to warm up. Turn it off and the do the Tach Learn. If successful, turn off the vehicle and try a remote start. Test the Brake shutdown and the hood pin shutdown. How would I do this part? As far as set to Auto Trans and Tach Mode?Jon

Re Yellow Door Pin wire - yes that looks like it. My info posted above said Gray 2 Pin plug. Again, the correct way to do this is with a test using a DMM. Re Viper Programming :   Page 2 of the 2 page install guide included with the Viper system has the program change procedure using the supplied remotes. Menu 3, Item 1 and Item 2 are the two options that need to be changed. You will need the Door Pin functional to enter in to Programming Mode. Soldering is fun!

I understand that would be the best way to do it but what do you recommend as an alternate or easier way to check when i dont have an exposed 12V constant?Jon