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Diode for two 530ts


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lophix 
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Posted: September 20, 2003 at 7:54 PM / IP Logged  
ok thanks. my remote start is the viper 150hf.
xmfan
lophix 
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Posted: September 20, 2003 at 8:37 PM / IP Logged  

not sure if i can edite my previous post so i'll post this in addition to what i've already posted. From what i found when i searched, someone had similar problems with theirs rolling up when the key was taken out of the ignition. The apparent fix was that i put one more diode between the junction of the 2 530ts and the grounded when armed (H1/1 Orange) output of the remote start console. I will try this out tomorrow afternoon. Meantime, anything else that could cause this to happen? The only other thing i can think of is in regards to a post cpgoose made about having 2 530ts and using a relay and someone else said it wasnt necessary to use a relay, so i didnt. any ideas if i should absolutely use a relay and if so, where and in what form (wiring scheme.diagram, etc) thanks

xmfan
cpgoose 
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Posted: September 21, 2003 at 5:56 PM / IP Logged  
I guess it's just preference as to whether you want to use a relay. I think most people would recommend it just to be on the safe side. I used 2 relays to hook up the 2-530t modules. I used 1 relay for the orange wire (the one that makes them roll up when the car is armed), and I used another on the alarm's AUX channel. If you're installing only one 530t, then you can just hook up your alarm's AUX channel to the 530ts AUX input, but if you're hooking up 2-530ts, then I think you should use a relay. The alarm's output is strong enough to drive 1 module, but probably not two (in my opinion...I just used it from people's suggestions, plus I didn't want to fry my nice alarm). ;-)
As for the diodes, I used 3 on the orange wire. I used 1 going to the alarm's starter kill, and then 1 for each of the 530t's orange wires (so a total of 3 diodes).
Then I also used 2 diodes on the AUX wires of the 530t's.
So OVERALL, I used 5 diodes.
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lophix 
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Posted: September 21, 2003 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged  
cpgoose, i don't know if i should say "unfotunately" yet, but i only used 2 diodes....one for each 530t module and it works perfectly fine. i dont think i have starter kill. i have one touch control on all windows (wired to each window individually) and one touch for all windows from the driver's side master control. however, i am yet to figure out how to enable use of the remote control functions. it doesnt work on one OR two hence my asking if i need a relay. Do i need one to do this and if i do, could you sketch out the schematics for me? thanks a lot man, your info and questions asked in the past have been really useful.
xmfan
cpgoose 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 6:33 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, so when you said "it doesn't work on one OR two", you mean you can't get the remote to control the windows when you're using one or two 530ts, right?
Ok, let's say you're just using one for the meantime to make it easier. The 1-touch is working, so I'm thinking you have most of the window wires hooked up correctly. Do you have the RED / white wire of the 530t hooked up to your alarm's AUX channel? If so, are you sure you don't have it hooked up to a "delayed" AUX channel? For example, on my alarm, AUX 2 is delayed for a trunk release or something like that. So, if I had hooked it up to that...I'd have to wait 2 seconds for the delay to kick in, then the windows would roll down.
Worse comes to worse, I guess you could check the AUX wire of the alarm, and see if it's putting out a pulse. Maybe it's not?
So bottom line, if you're using 1 530t module, you can just hook it up without a relay. If you're going to use two (like I did), then I would suggest using 2 relays....one for the "ground when armed" wire, and the other for the "AUX" channel. The diagram is on the second page of this post. (KEEP IN MIND...the diodes in that diagram are reversed...the stripe side needs to go the other way....towards the alarm).
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lophix 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 9:10 AM / IP Logged  

exactly as you stated. the one touch controls work, and the windows auto roll up fully on arming. my 150hf has 3 channels i believe: 1 is to lock/unlock and 3 is to remote start (by pressing 1+11 together). The RED / white aux output channel is most likely a delayed but still doesnt work if i press it for 1.5s, 2s, 4.5s or even 5s. i dont get any response at all.

I diode isolated the 530ts with 2 diodes facing the right direction as was instructed in one of the pages above and they work perfectly fine.I guess my last option is to check and see if i am getting any output from the aux channel. do i just set my d.m.m to ac/dc, connect the red lead to the aux output and the black to ground, and push the ch 2 button for the number of seconds each above to see that it is sending out a signal? if it is then how would i go about checking what signal/input the 530ts are looking for? this is what my remote start's manual had to say:

"never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! the transistorized output can only supply 200mA of current, connecting directly to a solenoid, motor or other high current device will cause it to fail."

Seeing as this is a 200mA output wire and the one i'm cnnecting it to is a lightgauge wire but is an aux input, do i need to still run a spdt relay and if so how? not knowing about relays and speaking out of my a$$, doesnt the relay receive a low current "trigger" that then tells it to supply high current 12v to the required path? if i do need to use a relay, then could you tell me what wire i should put on what terminal?

as you can probably tell by now, i have never dabbled with electronics before. this is my first time and i am just learning about stuff as i go along. thanks a lot for the help and replies.

xmfan
cpgoose 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 9:59 AM / IP Logged  
Ok (we're going to get this eventually :)
1. Since it didn't work on the 2nd channel (RED / white) of the alarm.   Did you try using the 3rd channel? (is that the WHITE/ blue wire?)
2. Since the 2-530ts aren't working, I would just shoot for getting 1 of them to work, and then try for the other. If you've permanently hooked them up, then don't worry about it, but if you haven't....I'd try for 1 first.
3. Maybe you can try disconnected the orange wires. I'm pretty sure it should work without those connected...those are only for getting it to roll them up when you arm. It shouldn't interfere with getting it to work with the remote trying to roll them down.
4. In order to check the output of the alarm, I believe you would put your multimeter to DC, put the red probe to 12volts positive, and the black lead to the output of the alarm. The output of the alarm should be negative.
5. As for what the manual is saying about using this wire to drive something but a relay.......if you're only using 1 530t, then it's fine to do it without a relay. If you're using both, then refer to the diagram on page 2 of this post. Diagram #1 shows you how to hook up a relay to the orange wire from the alarm. If you're not using a starter kill relay, then disregard that wire in the diagram.
As for Diagram #2, just pay attention to "Channel 3", the one that's going to the relay. This is showing how to hook up a relay to the AUX channel from the alarm in order to make the alarm's negative output stronger....strong enough to use both 530ts.
Here's another link to that diagram....even though it's on the second page.
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lophix 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 11:48 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the reply cpg. i didnt try the WHITE/ blue channel3 wire because i didnt want to mess with the remote start in any way.  but i wll do the following and let you know how it goes:

1. check to see if i'm getting any output at all from the brain as per your instructions. as per diagram 2, i am reading it as having to install 2 more diodes along the RED / white wires so that the signal only goes from the brain to the modules when i push channel2. i understand the need for a relay, but are the diodes actually necessary here, since the 530t's don't send any output along that line?

2. try and shoot for getting one to work first by connecting just one RED / white wire to to the brain and doing step 3.

3. try it with the orange wire disconnected.

 4. if it should work with any of the scenarios above, then i'll install a relay and connect both.

Unfortunately, it's monday again and i'm starting to hate school because i want to actually get this finished before resuming my schoolwork and it's interrupting. If only there were 3 weekend days instead of 2. I'll try and squeeze out some time tomorrow to get the above issues done and let you know how it goes...everything should be worked out the next time i tackle it. I really appreciate your help and patience with all my questions as a "newbie" with this. Thanks.

xmfan
cpgoose 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged  
No problem.....I've been doing this for a while, but still consider myself new as well.....
My responses will be in bold.
lophix wrote:
Thanks for the reply cpg. i didnt try the WHITE/ blue channel3 wire because i didnt want to mess with the remote start in any way. 
The only reason I suggested that was to determine whether the alarm or the window module was messing up somehow.
1. check to see if i'm getting any output at all from the brain as per your instructions.
Unless your alarm is old, I doubt the output is fried. But this is why they say to use a relay if you're connecting it to something big (like a few 530ts :-)
as per diagram 2, i am reading it as having to install 2 more diodes along the RED / white wires so that the signal only goes from the brain to the modules when i push channel2. i understand the need for a relay, but are the diodes actually necessary here, since the 530t's don't send any output along that line?
I'm not really sure if they're necessary or not. I asked the same question towards the beginning of my original post, but I was told to use them. It can't hurt. 2 diodes cost like $1.00. You said the 530t doesn't send any output along the line....but that's what the diode is preventing....any "excess" current. In other words (from what it sounds like to me), the 530t receives the signal, and to prevent some of that signal from seeping back out to the other 530t, you install diodes to prevent this.
2. try and shoot for getting one to work first by connecting just one RED / white wire to to the brain and doing step 3.
Sounds good....process of elimination is your friend.
3. try it with the orange wire disconnected.
Yes.
Hopefully this will get working before it gets cool again. (Well, I'm not sure where you are, but it's getting cooler over here).
Oooh, one more suggestion....I think in order to test your 530t....maybe you can touch it's RED / white input wire to a ground source (like a bolt or screw or something), and see if the windows roll down. In other words, you'll be duplicating the ground signal that your alarm would be sending.
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lophix 
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Posted: September 22, 2003 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged  

Oooh, one more suggestion....I think in order to test your 530t....maybe you can touch it's RED / white input wire to a ground source (like a bolt or screw or something), and see if the windows roll down. In other words, you'll be duplicating the ground signal that your alarm would be sending.

Aah! yes! i think i understand what's wrong now. but to be sure, let me diddle with it a little and i'll definitely have it done with your suggestions! dang. didnt know electronics was this much fun. and to think i have been avoiding it all my life!

xmfan
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