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Connectors or Solder


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Poll Question: What do you installer’s use ?
Poll Choice Votes Poll Statistics
Solder & Electrical Tape 41 [41.00%]
Solder & Heat Shrink ( when applicable ) 15 [15.00%]
3M T-Taps 8 [8.00%]
3M Scotchlok 0 [0.00%]
Other 36 [36.00%]
This topic is closed, no new votes accepted
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mikeshonda750 
Copper - Posts: 105
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 17, 2003 at 9:44 PM / IP Logged  
Heh actully... if you were to start soldering and get good at it... your costs would decrease, and your install times would improve, not to mention knowing its forever done. Yeah, no comebacks is great.... many times i have had to correct peoples mistakes because the customer was too pissed off about the shotty install job, and too worried they would screw it up again.
hotrodelectric 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 12:07 AM / IP Logged  
That's one advantage to building complete electrical systems from scratch- I don't need to worry about taking 15 minutes too long to install a stereo, especially when I know in advance what's going in. I can pre-wire the head unit, amp and speakers, make the connections the way I want them, then merely install the components when the time comes. Crimp (or a solid mechanical twist), solder, shrink tube- it's almost a mantra with me. No scotchlocs, t-taps, end caps or wirenuts. No heat-gun meltable solder splices, no twist-and-tape. Yeah- it's time-consuming and in some cases difficult. But, in 20+
years of doing this, I don't have comebacks.
bradleonard 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 4:14 AM / IP Logged  
In my experience, soldering has its drawbacks just like crimp connectors. Crimp butt style connectors hold great 99% of the time, but blade and ring connectors always have a tendency to pull out. The problem with soldering is time, it always takes longer. Of course it a better connection, if you know how to solder, which many people don't. The key to soldering is a good regulated temp soldering station. I don't care what anyone says, you cannot solder faster than crimping. You are a hack if you solder that fast, or you are a really slow crimper. The bottom line is, Crimping and Soldering are the two standards. Anything else is incorrect.
I remember back in the day when we would use wire nuts. Surprisingly the usually held as good as anything.
werd
livewire 1096 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 3:35 AM / IP Logged  
crimp or solder? i worker a shops that insisted one was better than the other. now i'm the owner. each has it's place and purpose. the key is which ever you use do it right.
livewire Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.
bobs94 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 23, 2003 at 12:53 AM / IP Logged  
Head units = butt connectors + electrical tape over all wires together. Theory is one connection can not fail without them all failling.
Alarm/Remote Start = Solder + electrical tape over entire wire to blend them in to factory wiring.
NINsane18 
Copper - Posts: 103
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 25, 2003 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  
LoL Evil Teken, I have been using non-lead solder forever, and read some of the previous posts where people mentioned the leaded melts so much faster. I was all pumped cause I found leaded solder, and it worked great, but a third arm wasnt what I had in mind 30 years from now Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image. Hopefully we will be okay if we hold the solder in our hands and not in our teeth Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.
Tim-May!
Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 26, 2003 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged  
NINsane18 wrote:
Hopefully we will be okay if we hold the solder in our hands and not in our teeth
LOL, I know . . . But on a more serious side note. It is not the fact that the solder is in your teeth, it is from the gases that are emitted from the burning process which is present, while soldering.
In the case where little children used to ingest the leaded paint flakes off the of walls.
However you look at it, lead always did what it intended, whether it be for gas, paint, or solder.
But the side affects of its use are what most people should be aware of. I already have a third leg, I rather have a third eye instead ! Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
n0risc 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2003 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged  

The reason why top professional installers use this method, is for servicability and removability.  The key for good alarm installation is not curring any wires in half, and leaving factory wires intact.  The only wire you should ever cut in half in any vehicle alarm installation is the starter crank wire, thus it has to be broken by a relay.  Possibly any anti-theft, passlock I&2, or transponder systems,  those wires as well may have to be cut in half.

Most vechicles bought today are a form of lease/rent and have to be returned in a specified time.  Those that lease and want extra security tend to add aftermarket alarms.  To avoid confusion and mishaps by cutting wires in half, and depending on reconnections that fail, it's best to keep the wire intact.  The T-Tap method is great, but, they only come in specific AWG characteristics and I have found them being more of a nusiance than a time saver.  Especially the unexperienced that cannot look at a naked wire, and dechipering the size of it.  Plus, some wires have thicker jackets than other, but might be the same size.  The T-tap cannot pierce through thick jacketed wire, such wires located on most ingition switches.  Even though their mostly 12AWG, they look like 10AWG or 8AWG because of the jacket.

I've seen some installers still actually strip the wire, and use a t-tap after that.  Making the T-tap have to work less piercing through the jacket, but if you are wasting time doing the T-taps intended job, why not stick with the traditional method; which is Strip, Poke, Loop, Tape, and Ty Strap.

This is by far the best way for servicability, removability, and furthermost, testing.  What a pain in the ass to solder a connection, and then have to De-solder it to test a characteristic of its function.  A complete utter waste.  These are not aircrafts nor do they have to be installed like one.

The difference in time between soldering, and loop taping, is almost double.   I can say this, If you've installed alarms in a specific vechile so many times, where you can hook it up completely with every option available, and maybe its a friends or personal vehicle, go ahead and solder them if you wish.  But, i dread the day the friend/customer/ or yourself want to remove the system.  NO!  its not proper to cut the wires and butt cap the ends, by anymeans.

If some people want to be ANAL RENTENTIVE about installation,  they are barking up the wrong tree.  They should be anal rententive about removal, servicibility, with keeping installation time in mind.

Any connection that requres a Butt Connector, or any type of crimp connector,  you'd better learn the ways of double crimping, and knowing how to crimp properly.  If you just take the connector and do not observe the 'slit' in the metal, you are crimping incorrectly.  All crimp connectors, at least the good ones, will have a slit down the actual metal itself.  You proceede to crimp in that direction first, and flipping 90 degrees and using the flat crimp to finish.  The crimp when finished will look like a heart.

n0risc

15 year veteran audio&alarm installations.

mikeshonda750 wrote:

Strip, poke, slip through and twist method: No brainer here. Your BEGGING for people to come back with problems! Why not take an extra 10 seconds and solder it up and tape it up instead of "I TRIPLE tape my connections! Run a hose clamp around that and squeeze it down to ensure nothing is comming loose and i wire-tie that so the screw wont back off!" though i suppose the installer who uses this method doesent need any wire strippers, they just use their teeth!!Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.

167.3
mikeshonda750 
Copper - Posts: 105
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2003 at 6:26 PM / IP Logged  

Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.

Are you REALLY that bored?

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 26, 2003 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
mikeshonda750 wrote:

Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.

Are you REALLY that bored?

LMAO . . .Connectors or Solder - Page 3 -- posted image.
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