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Connectors or Solder


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Poll Question: What do you installer’s use ?
Poll Choice Votes Poll Statistics
Solder & Electrical Tape 41 [41.00%]
Solder & Heat Shrink ( when applicable ) 15 [15.00%]
3M T-Taps 8 [8.00%]
3M Scotchlok 0 [0.00%]
Other 36 [36.00%]
This topic is closed, no new votes accepted
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jayts95 
Copper - Posts: 150
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2002
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  
I just wanted to add my 2 cents. Soldering is great and all, but twisting and taping wires is fine also if you do it correctly. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. I have used both methods and they have both worked fine. I noticed some comments on the use of heatshrink. That stuff is awesome. The only problem is the cost and the fact that you have to cut the wires to use this method.
superchuckles 
Copper - Posts: 89
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 12, 2004 at 7:59 AM / IP Logged  
you may have to cut the wires, but the connection becomes permanent - if i solder a connection and use heat shrink over it, it is as good or better than the factory job, and guaranteed not to come apart without the wire itself breaking - ever.  twisting and tape is when all you have is tape, because just twisting the wire will make an ok connection for the moment, but the problem is there is nothing to bond the wires together should the adheasive on the tape fail (and unless it's the real good 3M stuff, the adheasive will fail after 1 or two summers under that hot dash or in that hot trunk, etc) -- then the only strength against some tug on the wire will be your twist..... and unless you tied it in a square knot or something, it's likely to give.  also, tape is slow (though faster in comparison to heat shrink - depending on how much taping /heat shrinking you need to do) - so like i've said before, if you've got the time, or if you're building a show car that every bit of the harness is under the scrutiny of everyone, then solder and heat shrink (even offered in colors that can match your existing insulation) is the way to go.  if you are running a stereo shop, and you can't get your installers to work for .75 cents an hour, or you can't get them to do 50 splices, solder joints, heat shrinks in 10 minutes time all over the car, sometimes (too many times usually) in cramped quarters, then crimp connectors are the way to go.  they already have their necessary insulation, and when you've practiced it - even a little, you get very proficient at stripping the correct lengths, and crimping connections very quickly. 
markcars 
Silver - Posts: 662
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 23, 2004 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  
First off, I am not an auto professional. I don't know if this is a terrible idea or not, but the last few times I worked on my car, I soldered the connections and then surrounded the bare wires with a glue gun, then tape it for looks/extra safety. Just a problem though, is when you have to remove the connection. If you cut the wires where the glue is stuck, then its ok. Please tell me if I am doing something wrong.
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