cap and amps install

Im planning out my whole system right now so i know exactly what im doing. I have a question about the installation of my cap and amps. I will be having a memphis 75x4 amp powering my memphis components in front and pioneer 3 ways in the back. My JBL BP600.1 will be powering 2 10" memphis M3's rated at 300 RMS each. Also my bazooka EL2100 will be powering 2 memphis mclass 10"s at 200 RMS each. My question is should I run all 3 amps off my cap? or should i do something else? I dont have any problems right now when i just have the bazooka and jbl running off the cap. I just dont want my system draining the battery. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thankyou very much.03 F150 on 24's

HU:Pioneer DVD5700

Frt:MC57

Subs:(12)S12L7

Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Yeah you are really best off buying a HO alternator, something in excess of 100amps, you shouldnt need much more than that with your setup, but still buy the biggest you can afford, in case you want to upgrade in the future. Without adequate alternator power a cap will hurt more than it will help. Capacitors dont produce power, they merely store it untill it is needed for a deep hit. Therefore it will actually draw more on your cars electrical system.

I am also going to throw this in,   what are you going to try to accomplish by running 2 diffrent type subs?   crossphase? distortion? less bass?    WHY IS EVEYONE DOING THIS!!!!2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR

2007 USACI World Champion

2007 World Record

2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

is there a problem running 2 different types of subs? why? what should i buy if i want more bass?03 F150 on 24's

HU:Pioneer DVD5700

Frt:MC57

Subs:(12)S12L7

Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

2 Cents....Caps don't drain more power off of your car..yes the do store electricity, but when you have a hard hit from the subs it uses the energy stored in the cap instead of pulling it with resistance from the battery.. when the hit is gone it recharges instantly...  On the seperate size sub::: I did run 4-15's and 4-12's in a truck one time....just because i had them.. Would I do it again? At 30 yrs old---no... Use same size subs because of  cancellation due to pressure variations of the subs.. 12's move more air than 10's due to cone space.......93 pathfinder 4-10's ,4-5.25 mids, 4-1"tweets and three amps..Kenwood,Kicker and Jbl...97 Sebring Jx convertible

1500 RF amp with 2-10" Lanzar subs

2005 suzuki Katana 600

doyledee, if the cap is completely drained or even half drained during a good bass hit it could cause problems. it would be like charging the cap without a resistor and is not very good for the electrical system. the benefits of a cap in my opinion are outwayed by the possible mishaps

I think he is using all 10" memphis subs. But they are differant models, differant rms, and run off differant watt and brand amps. I cant see how this will sound good, as the subs will not be hitting at the same levels.

First off, a cap, as long as it is connected to the primary power source (in this case, the battery of the car) will NEVER drain completely. All a cap is there to do, is fill in the current demands for that MILLISECOND of time while the battery tries to produce it's current. A capacitor is an EXTREMELY low impedance device, this means it can produce current very quickly, but as it is an electromechanical device, cannot produce any energy of it's own. A battery, on the other hand, as an electrochemical device, has a significantly higher internal impedance, so therefore cannot produce instantaneous current peaks like a capacitor can. Here is an old thread with pictures... I am NOT advocating the use of capacitors as a fix for everything wrong with a car stereo system, they rarely do what they claim to do, but the DO NOT CAUSE PROBLEMS, in and of themselves. The energy required to run a car stereo system SHOULD always, first and foremost, come from the alternator. If you do not have an adequate power SOURCE, you cannot ever run your system effectively. Think of it like this: Your stereo is a building on fire, What happens? You call the fire department. The fire truck comes out to put the fire out. You have a big pumper/tanker truck, with HUGE hoses (your battery, with asociated power cables to the trunk), and it starts to try to put the fire out. Eventually the pumper/tanker will be empty. This is what happens when the battery goes dead. How do we stop this from happening? We connect the pumper/tanker to a water source, right? What if that water source is a garden hose from across the street (or a stock, low current alternator)? It isn't going to help much, now is it, and the tanker will still go empty, just not QUITE as fast as if it had no water source at all. BUT if we connect to a hydrant or two (an HO alternator) the tanker can keep up with the fire as long as necessary to keep the fire under control. As far as using different size drivers, we have been over this topic as well. At those frequencies, because the wavelength is SO long, relative to the size of the driver, there is NO way you will be able say (by listening) "uh, you got two twelves and two tens, man" Follow the recommendations in this thread and/or this thread, and go for it! Granted, it MIGHT be possible for a $2,000,000 HP Spectrum Analyzer to pick out the TINY differences, but how many of us have one of those in our garages?It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

right now i have 2 10 inch memphis mclass subs in a custom box in place of the center console and i am planning on putting 2 more M3's in a custom box under the second seat of my expedition. Will there be any cancellation since the boxes arent even going to be near each other? If there is going to be cancellation then what should i do if i want more bass in the back?03 F150 on 24's

HU:Pioneer DVD5700

Frt:MC57

Subs:(12)S12L7

Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004