the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
mnviking28 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2004
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: March 02, 2005 at 2:35 PM / IP Logged  

I completely agree with Jeff.  T-taps are a no-no.  Soldering and taping may take you a little more time, but it is a much more reliable install.  T-Taps just lead to problems down the road.  Vibration can work your connection loose, they can also bend and not fully cut through the insulation, leading to an intermittant connection.  Or, even worse, they can actually cut some of your strands in your wires leading to further problems down the road.  Take the time to do it right.  Worst case scenario is that it will take you a little longer.  The time you saved with the tips you got here will more than make up for the extra time soldering.

MNViking28
dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  

I'm back! Hopefully doing the install this weekend. I forgot to ask, where should I put the alarm control unit? Up by the BCM? I don't think I'd have enough wire length anywhere else...

Dan

davedyer79 
Copper - Posts: 178
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 05, 2005 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  
There is a big loom of factory wires to the left and above the BCM.  Pull on it gently downward and you can stuff/zip tie the unit there.  Also, there is a another loom of factory wires coming off this loom that goes to the BCM, so you can route the RS wires along the factory loom for a clean install.  Also, if it means anything, I also agree with Jeff and mviking28.  T-taps are horrible connectors that fail consistently.  Soldering is the best, but if you are not comfortable with soldering, you can strip a 1/4 off the wires on the vehicle, stick a pick (icepick) through it to create a loop.  Tie in the wire from the RS, twist, tape and zip tie each connection.  I feel this is sufficient, but to each his own.  Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
davedyer79
dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 05, 2005 at 6:05 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks! I'm just starting the install now, and I'm completely baffled. I can't find any of the wires. I think this MAY be the ignition wires, but I'm not sure. Found these coming from the steering wheel and going into the fuse box. It has the wire colors for what would be start (yellow) ignition 1 (pink) ignition 2 (white) and accessory (thick orange) as well as a brown one. Would the brown be 12v? Here are 2 pics:

At back of fuse panel:

2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start - Page 3 -- posted image.

Coming from steering wheel:

2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start - Page 3 -- posted image.

Additionally, the brown plug at the BCM has 4 light blue wires in it and 2 white wires. How the heck am I supposed to figure out which lock and unlock the car?

2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start - Page 3 -- posted image.

dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 05, 2005 at 8:14 PM / IP Logged  
Help! I'm trying to get this done tonight! Also, where is the Passlock II wire?
Thanks a lot,
Dan
boomer_106 
Silver - Posts: 710
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 05, 2005 at 8:37 PM / IP Logged  
You meter the wires while operating the functions to determine which is which. For instance your lt. blue and white. Check them for zero volts at rest and + 12 volts when you lock and unlock on the respective wire. Do the same for ignition wires. No voltage key off, +12 in the run position. The passlock wires come from the key and run down the steering column. Are you using a module? See your private message for more passlock instruction.
dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 06, 2005 at 12:19 AM / IP Logged  
OK, I am going to sleep thoroughly stumped. Boomer, thanks for the reply - it seems I lost my multimeter and will go pick up one tomorrow. Also, I'm having a really hard time believing that these wiring colors are correct - I find it hard to believe that the starter wire is the thinnest wire of them all. Does that make sense? And, I still have to find the 12v+ source, that's getting tough too. Anyone done one of these before that could possibly tell me what the thick brown wire in the ignition harness does, too, and whether I need it?
Thanks for the help, guys...
Dan
thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: March 06, 2005 at 12:55 AM / IP Logged  
You are correct, the first picture in your post are the following. And yes, starter wire is the thin yellow wire.   
|              12V|red                 |+ |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow              |+ |ignition harness            |
|        IGNITION|pink               |+ |ignition harness            |
| SECOND IGNITION|white               |+ |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|orange              |+ |ignition harness            |
Lock/Unlock is the brown plug harness you are holder in the picture. You will get +12V when you hit the switch. The horn wire is there too. BLACK and negative.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start - Page 3 -- posted image.
boomer_106 
Silver - Posts: 710
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 06, 2005 at 6:28 AM / IP Logged  
I'm not sure what the brown wire does but, at this point I don't think you need it. There is one sure fire way of finding out the starter wire.  Cut it in half. If your truck won't crank then you know that is the wire. just like pencil said + 12 volts is the red wire grouped with the other ignition harness wires. You definitely need a multimeter when installing. You also need to allow yourself plenty of time especially if you haven't done this before. It helps alot when you're not hurried and stressed.
iskidoo 
Silver - Posts: 1,040
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2002
Location: Maine, United States
Posted: March 06, 2005 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
dmurray14 wrote:
I find it hard to believe that the starter wire is the thinnest wire of them all. Does that make sense?
Yes the reason being that when that wire gets +12v it energizes a relay in the engine compartment which is a larger guage wire. Put your meter on the wire and test it for +12v when you are engaging the starter.
dmurray14 wrote:
I still have to find the 12v+ source, that's getting tough too.
Your constant +12v should be just that, always showing +12v even when the car is off. It will be a larger guage wire just like the Ignition wire, perhaps even a little bigger. It should be RED. Test all your wires with your DMM and/or test light. Don't rely on the wire color chart, they are simply there to help you locate the wires quicker. You still MUST test each wire for it's proper function before using it.
dmurray14 wrote:
Anyone done one of these before that could possibly tell me what the thick brown wire in the ignition harness does, too, and whether I need it.
The brown wire is for accessories such as the wipers and radio. You do not need this wire hooked up to remote start the vehicle. When you get in the remotely started vehicle and turn the key on the radio will be powered. You can power it if you like but it would require wiring an additional relay. I don't use it because I like the wipers to stay off in case the window is iced over or there is 3 inches of snow on it. The wipers if left on would try to activate and possibly stress or damage the wiper motor when they were unable to move. This allows the defroster to melt the ice or snow before the wipers come on.
dmurray14 wrote:
Additionally, the brown plug at the BCM has 4 light blue wires in it and 2 white wires. How the heck am I supposed to figure out which lock and unlock the car?
They are most likely the smaller quage wires but test the wires while activating the door switch to make sure.
Page of 4

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, April 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer