I’ve really done it this time

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Security and Convenience / I’ve really done it this time (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Page < Prev Topic Next Topic >

overworked

Copper - Posts: 133

Joined: November 09, 2004

Location: Australia

Posted: October 29, 2005 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged

Ok, so when you say that it was a $600 bill from Toyota, I'm seriously hoping that you are meaning that it includes, trace and locate fault as well right? Please? Pretty please? Surely it was a $600 relay!

m012v: Thank you for that!

There is a relay at the Drivers fusebox and I can hear it's coil firing when I press the switch. Is this the relay or am I looking for a different one altogether?

Thank you so much for your help guys.

gus1

Gold - Posts: 1,013

Joined: October 15, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: October 29, 2005 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged

Hmmm.... you could almost buy 2 decent Fluke DMM's for that price....

I tell anyone that works here that I could care less how "computer safe" their shhhty test light is... If I catch them using anything other than a decent multimeter (hell... they can use my old Simpson analog VOM if they can figure it out) I will grab the 24oz hammer and use it on the test light. The fact that you do own a DMM, and decided to use the test equipment provided by the manufacturer of the $29 starter you bought at Wally World (did this one come with the video????) really scares me a lot......

Hope the stealership goes easy on you.....

Gus

Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

overworked

Copper - Posts: 133

Joined: November 09, 2004

Location: Australia

Posted: October 29, 2005 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged

Gus, my dear sir......

I have actually found good uses for this little test light now. I'm sure you read in my previous statement where I said I had never seen one and simply tried it out and through my own stupidity, I killed it. Not once did I blame the test light.

I would never have brought a $29 remote starter. In fact the unit was $80. The usual price of what I'm used to paying in Australia. So, I didn't see the problem with it. Infact, until I work out what the fault is with the car I have since placed the unit into my own car and it's working fine. Hasn't skipped a beat and I don't see why it should. I know it's the best quality out there but shhh! I wasn't going to pay $300 odd dollars on someone elses car!

If you read another one of my posts on this forum you will see that I really don't care for fluke either. They haven't done anything that my $45 DMM couldn't do. Infact, unless I'm willing to spend $400, then my old Micronta had more functions (RPM and Dwell Angle readings)

whitey

Member - Posts: 49

Joined: October 03, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: October 29, 2005 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged

it was time and if i remember right it was the fuse box or what ever the relay pluged into along with it. All i know is I spent a good amount of time on it myself and then sent it to the dealer. I had the same issues you were having. You couls hear the relay click but nothing.

Visions Edmonton

Installation Manager, DLS

MECP Certified First Class

extreme1

Silver - Posts: 1,070

Joined: February 12, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: October 29, 2005 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged

whitey wrote:

shouldn't you be under the dash of a car somewhere??? I’ve really done it this time - Page 2 -- posted image.

Shaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: October 31, 2005 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged

Well, shipping it off do the dealer is a last resort. I mean, with a few relays, as long as the switch and actuators are good, you could always just completely rewire the power locks yourself.

And I use a Power Probe LED test light all the time; I even test tach wires with it. "Overworked" stated it himself----he made an installation error by misreading the test light----it was not the light itself that made any trouble.

Overworked,

Exactly which wire did you power up incorrectly?

Probably the first step is to test the three wires that go to the doorlock actuators.

In the driver's kick panel, you can see two plugs where the wire goes into the doors----The all-lock motor, and the driver-unlock motor are in there, blue and red.

Along the driver's doorsill, running to the back of the car, is the all-unlock motor wire.

All three wires should test as a ground while at rest. When you try to lock the doors, the all-lock wire should be positive.

If you try to unlock with the remote, or by twisting the key in the driver's door, first the driver-unlock will be positive, and then the all-unlock.

If you unlock the doors with the rocker switch, both the driver-unlock and the all-unlock will turn positive.

By the way, I've used the Bulldog test light before and red IS positive----maybe you had it hooked up backwards, or the light itself is defective? Try hooking it up to the car battery and then probe the battery's + and - terminals just to double-check.

customcarchris

Copper - Posts: 95

Joined: July 08, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: October 31, 2005 at 10:32 PM / IP Logged

I did almost this exact thing on my car about a year ago.

I was under the dash and clipped unlock wire going to the factory door lock relays which is supposed to be ground to unlock... I was under the dash and the trouble light burnt my arm and I yelled "DAMMIT!" and it just so happened I had 12v in my hand at the time and hit the unlock wire.

This made a good spark and then my locks did the same. You could click the button and the relay would activate, but nothing would happen. I called the alarm manufacturer tech support and found out that you can take apart the factory lock relays and there was a trace burnt off of the circuit board. I just got a little solder and carefully linked the small gap that got burnt back together and they worked and have been for over a year now.

Hope you can get to your factory relays and fix it!

Search for other posts by customcarchris

overworked

Copper - Posts: 133

Joined: November 09, 2004

Location: Australia

Posted: October 31, 2005 at 10:36 PM / IP Logged

1st Chris, thank you for that. A complete rewire was definetly on the cards....but I still really want to restore the original system so will try your advice.

2nd Chris...hahaha. nuff said.

fingaz22

Silver - Posts: 410

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

Joined: March 11, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 02, 2005 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged

that would be the best way to go. what chris has suggested and if you want to test the relay befor you take it out of the curcuit(witch would be a good idea) so not to disturb it as least as possible to get a proper diagnouses. just check to output stage of the relay when fired on by the switch. and that test probe is a very useful tool in my box. it cuts testing down to a min. time. like in a window or door lock curcuit even the exterior lighting its great. i actaully just bought another one of the mac guy it will be here today. a very sought after tool in my profession. good luck and once you get the hang of the probe you'll use it alot.

JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!

hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205

sound processor,symmetry(first one).

sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).

subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.

punch 150hd on a 10" ev.

alotofhighs

< Prev Page

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

I’ve really done it this time

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.This topic is closed.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.