Valet 561t into 1997 Grand Prix GTP

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iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: November 04, 2005 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged

To prevent the unit from starting by pressing the interior lock switch you will need to wire in a diode. Use the diagram on the top of page 20 as a reference from this manual. http://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N700T.pdf Only do the lock wire as the unlock is not needed for your application.

This will allow the keyless unit to send a signal to the activation input but not allow input from the lock switch.

Steve G

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: November 04, 2005 at 10:50 PM / IP Logged

Valet 561t into 1997 Grand Prix GTP - Page 3 -- posted image.

Steve G

mhissticobra

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Joined: October 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged

iskidoo wrote:

Which wire did you hook from the starter to the ORANGE / black. Did you find the ORANGE / black to be pin 5 of the 32 pin plug in the keyless module?

There may be a wire somewhere in the keyless 32 pin plug that provides a negative pulse when hitting the lock button on the remote. If there is one and it's not the lt blue lock wire then you could tie your activation trigger there. Test for negative on each wire while pressing the lock each time.

I hooked the factory disarm wire to the ORANGE / black wire. Here's what I figured out from last night. The ORANGE / black wire is the factory disarm wire and when the alarm is going off, I gave it a negative pulse and the alarm went off and the car was still on. Then, I checked the factory disarm wire coming from the RS module and it does give a negative pulse when the RS is activated. So in theory this would work fine, but here is what is happening in reality-the negative pulse from the RS is giving a negative pulse too soon, by the time the car actually starts, the negative has come and gone resulting in the factory alarm going off. I will go out and try to find the wire that gives a negative pulse when I press the lock on the key fob, I checked before but I'll check again. Yea, the lt. blue wire only gives a negative pulse when the lock inside the car is pressed-the same goes for the white wire when the unlock in the car is pressed. I'm going to try some thingd now and see what I get. Thanks for the pictures! They would have really come in handy a couple days ago when I was really clueless. Let me know if you have heard about that negative pulse problem before. Thanks!

mhissticobra

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Joined: October 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 9:26 AM / IP Logged

Also, the ORANGE / black wire appears to be cut-is this my problem, it has to be cut?

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged

mhissticobra wrote:

Also, the ORANGE / black wire appears to be cut-is this my problem, it has to be cut?

The wire should not be cut. Maybe they had a problem in the past and cut it for some reason. If its cut try to connect to the side that is not going into the door but rather the side that is going towards the interior so that the negative pulse will get to the right place.

As for the pictures I only came acrossed them when I went to pull up a wiring diagram from http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagrams.htm to help troubleshoot the problems your having.

Steve G

mhissticobra

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Joined: October 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 11:55 AM / IP Logged

No, no-in the picture you gave me the wire is cut. I have been trying stuff all morning and with no solution, the alarm just keeps going off, the is turning stupid, it shouldn't take 3 days to install one of these!

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged

Yeah, I looked at what your saying now. I don't think it's cut it's just seperated from the other wires and turns back towards the loom of wires but the angle hides it so it appears cut. Regardless you would not want to cut the factory disarm wire. You only need to strip back the insulation and run your wire through the center and wrap the strands around it well then black tape it.

Steve G

mhissticobra

Member - Posts: 21

Joined: October 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 05, 2005 at 2:44 PM / IP Logged

I did that a long time ago and it still goes off- this is why I am pulling my hair out-I have it hooked up directly how the manual says and it doesn't work, the alarm will forever go off! I have tried to call DEI but since I am not an authorized dealer they can't speak to me about it which I think is horseshhh because they sell a product and can't help you out unless your a part of them!! I took it to a DEI shop and he guy behind the counter shook his his head and didn't know but he told me to let him know if I can't figure it out. I have on this thing for 3 days now and I think now I am going to attempt to build a bomb so I can just blow my car up so I can move on with my life.

For real though-any ideas anyone?

iskidoo

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: November 06, 2005 at 7:06 AM / IP Logged

Try sitting in the vehicle and arming the alarm. Wait a few minutes then put the key in and see if it sets the alarm off. If not turn the key to ignition to see if that sets the alarm off. If not start it. I just want to know what step exactly is setting off the alarm.

If it ends up being an ignition sense that sets it off you might be able to locate the igntion input wire going into the alarm and cut that wire. Same goes if it were a keysense that sets it off, that wire could be cut.

Steve G

mhissticobra

Member - Posts: 21

Joined: October 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: November 06, 2005 at 10:02 AM / IP Logged

OK, I got in and armed it, waited a few seconds and put the key in-got nothing, so I turned the key, not starting it, into the run position and the alarm went off. Another thing I noticed is that when I remote start my car, my radio doesn't turn on and the windows don't work-is this some kind of safety feature or is something incorrect here?

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