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Delayed relay output?


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icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 2:43 PM / IP Logged  
I have no idea how to check why it is grounding out all the time... The manual doesn't say anything other than to diode isolate relays to the wire Delayed relay output? - Page 9 -- posted image.
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged  
Maybe someone out there has some experience using that signal line and could confirm how it's supposed to operate?
i.e. does it really go to ground only during RS, or under all conditions except RS, or ?
If it were me, I'd have that alarm module splayed open, but you probably don't want to do that- Delayed relay output? - Page 9 -- posted image.
I did that to fix an Astra 777 module with a blown output, which had 12V applied to a low current (-) driver during a brain fart. Attached one of my 8 cent transistors to it, and all is well again- Delayed relay output? - Page 9 -- posted image.
One nice thing about that module is that it's not one of those plastic welded cases, but more like a hobbyist case that just invites poking around within.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  

I had the other module apart that had the dead relay on the ACC output, and the components on it are pretty dang small (surface mount resistors etc that I know nothing about), lol... 'bout the only thing I would really want to touch on there with an iron is the relays and a few caps etc...

It's just an inexpensive remote starter, so I don't expect to much from it (like a lead for the defrost, lol!)

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 17, 2005 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  

This is a 500-mA constant ground output active when the vehicle is running under a remote start. The output becomes active at the same time as ignition and becomes inactive when the module shuts down (i.e.: runtime has expired or the START/STOP button is pressed, etc.). The output can be used to activate external relays, bypass kits, etc

This is all the manual says about the wire and to diode isolate any relays or by-pass modules going to it...

I emailed the company for info, but I doubt they will tell me much seeing as they have been so vauge with the other questions I asked about (I emailed them about the ACC wire originally.)

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2005 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  
Well, that certainly sounds like it's only supposed to be grounded during remote start, and open otherwise.
When you tested it using your separate relay and it pulled in with the other side connected to 12V, that indicates the output is shorted out; probably a solid state driver chip in the module. You might see about getting a replacement again, though it doesn't bode well for its reliability if you're having all these failures out of the box.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 18, 2005 at 4:42 AM / IP Logged  

Is there anything I might be doing wrong to cause this?

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2005 at 8:47 AM / IP Logged  
If the only thing you had hooked up to that output was the coil inputs to those relays, I doubt you did it, since that should have been well under the 500mA rating of the output.
If you inadvertently touched it to some 12V line while it was in RS mode, that could have blown the output, though I would have expected it to fail open, rather than shorted.
Seems like it might just be an unrelated failure to the first one with the bad 12V output.
If you think you'd have a hard time bringing it back for another exchange, you can always go back to KP's suggestion to use the 12V IGN output from the module to control the timing.
It would just would mean that you have to get some high current diodes mentioned to isolate it from the 12V backfeeding from the normal ignition. Current rating has to be high enough to supply the ignition circuits when in RS mode, which you could measure with your DMM.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 18, 2005 at 4:17 PM / IP Logged  

I would have to cut the ignition wire to measure the current through it right? I know there is a ton of things runnigs off dang near every wire on this silly car, it's a Lincoln (read: Ford!) lol...

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2005 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  
If you didn't already button everything up, you just have to disconnect the wire coming out from your alarm module and feeding the +12V ignition circuit of the car. You want to measure the current passing through from the alarm module only, so you don't have to cut any wires in the car's harness.
Put your meter on the 20A measurement mode, connect the test leads to the two ends, and then do a remote start to see what it draws.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 19, 2005 at 12:33 AM / IP Logged  

k, I'll have to try to find a better meter, mine only measures up to 10A. I'll see what I can find...

Thanks :)

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