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Adding a power door lock switch


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captainzab 
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Joined: February 09, 2005
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Posted: August 01, 2006 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
i just use the cheap 1A diode, dont know part number
italian_virus 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged  
captainzab wrote:
Adding a power door lock switch - Page 2 -- posted image.
i am doing the exact same thing as bsd1 just that my car is a 95 honda. i have installed the actuators.. so from what this diagram is looking like i need 2 diodes and a switch ?
captainzab 
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Posted: August 03, 2006 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged  
yes, its that simple. But make sure its a 3 wire switch where the center is ground. I know someone out there might go to the junkyard and accidently get a weird 5 wire type that i dont know how it works.
swamprat323 
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Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 12:48 PM / IP Logged  
can buy them here.
door lock switch
italian_virus 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 1:17 PM / IP Logged  
captainzab wrote:
yes, its that simple. But make sure its a 3 wire switch where the center is ground. I know someone out there might go to the junkyard and accidently get a weird 5 wire type that i dont know how it works.
lol funny that u said that cause i did go the junkyard and take one from a ford taurus and it has the 5 wire type and i had no idea what do to with it ;s, but thanks i have the diodes now i jus gotta get the switch
Thanks you
italian_virus 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 1:19 PM / IP Logged  
swamprat323 wrote:
can buy them here.
door lock switch
nicee thanks man ill check out crappy tire first, but knowning them they wont have so this will be my best bet haha
btw i meant Thank you on the post up above hah
italian_virus 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 1:24 PM / IP Logged  
captainzab wrote:
Is 1N4001/L diode the correct one?
Yes you can use that
i have the 1N004 is that good enough ???
bsd1 
Copper - Posts: 62
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2006
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
italian_virus wrote:
i have the 1N004 is that good enough ???
If you mean 1N4004, that should be the same type of diode, but with a even higher current rating, thus even better.
italian_virus 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 03, 2006 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged  
bsd1 wrote:
italian_virus wrote:
i have the 1N004 is that good enough ???
If you mean 1N4004, that should be the same type of diode, but with a even higher current rating, thus even better.
yea thats what i meant, typo hehe
bsd1 
Copper - Posts: 62
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2006
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 04, 2006 at 7:18 AM / IP Logged  
Bad news guys, I fvcked up both actuators. The RH side got burned out completely, the LH side just doesn't function anymore, seems like the motor got stuck, I had to remove the rod in order to lock the door from outside.
I then checked the brain as well as the relays, they seem to send pulse still, so I guess just the actuators are plain dead.
Now, I disconnected the door lock harness and the actuators wires completely.
Fortunately, actuators are quite cheap, I'm going to get a pair off ebay (it's expensive in local retail store, $20 each). I guess I have to put this project on hold for a few days.
Though, meanwhile, I would like to find out WHY did that happen. I don't want the new actuators to happen like that again.
Here's what I have done:
- disconnect - and + battery cable
- unplug the blue and green wire off the two relays
- use electrical tape and tape the diode tips exactly like shown in captainzab's diagram
- of course, I made sure the switch's middle pin is connected to the chassis ground. I also checked for continuity when toggling the switch to lock/unlock
- after I reconnected the battery cables I heard the actuator's noise immediately, sound like it was trying to lock or unlock the door repeatedly, without me toggling the switch
Please help..
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