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2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips?


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buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 11:06 AM / IP Logged  
Wouldn't the pin be exposed to water in the pic Saarde posted? I have water trails on that plastic panel from rain running between the hood and the radiator support. I mounted mine like the pic i posted except i bent the piece of metal into a Z like shape so the pin is above the water trail. It can always be moved though. I liked it there because there was already a factory hole to mount my steel bracket. I'll try to get a pic in a day or two and get some feedback from you guys.
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
angelars 
Copper - Posts: 176
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  
You'll get water anywhere in the front grill location, but the second picture is more protected from it underneith. The second picture is also more professional mounting wise. It's 6 of one, a half dozen of another, but I definitely prefer the second location to the first.
buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 2:48 PM / IP Logged  
Ok i have a dumb question, do these trucks not have a factory alarm? When i press the lock button twice, i hear the horn beep. There is also an LED in the dash from the factory and it blinks when the truck is not running. Reason i am asking this is because i was told i do not need to hook up the Factory Alarm Arm and Disarm output wires and i thought it did have a factory alarm.
I also need to wake up the GEM module cause my doors won't unlock with the new remote. I found the Ford GEM wake-up instructions but they are different for trucks with and without an alarm. For those familiar with F150 installs, you probably know what i'm talking about.
Also, i still need to hook up my Dome Light output wire. I was told to tap into the ORANGE / Green wire at the dimmer switch. Will i need a relay for this output wire (500mA from the module)? I personally don't think i would since it is only sending a signal and not actually powering the dome light, but am looking for a confirmation ;)
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
angelars 
Copper - Posts: 176
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 3:04 PM / IP Logged  
It certainly sounds like you have a factory alarm. Did you try to start it after the horn beeps? make sure you know how to turn it off if it does have an alarm. Some alarms have built in relays for the lights, but NOT the dome light. Most units need a relay for the dome light. Your instructions will say more about this. You shouldn't have to 'wake-up' anything to get the locks to work.
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 7:13 PM / IP Logged  

If your horn honks on second lock press of remote you have a factory security. If you would like to test it do this...

roll down drivers window....press lock twice on remote..wait about a minute...open the door by reaching thru the window and manually unlocking..the horn will honk..lights should flash..to disarm...press unlock or put the key in the door and turn to unlock it. That simple.

I list nothing about waking up the GEM on your particular truck regardless..but this is how you should do the door triggers. Instead of going to all the wires..use the domelight supervision wire of the truck and connect it to the positve door trigger input of the system..usually a violet wire. The trigger stays on for a while sometimes after the door is closed (delay) so if your system can be programmed to ignore the delay (all dei's can be as well)  it will save time and you won't have to diode everything. And correct..on this truck you can't tie the factory security to the aftermarket so either carry 2 remotes or forget the factory..its pretty useless IMO anyhow.

Heres the wiring for everything to do an alarm and remote start for your truck.   Good Luck

12volts  lt. GREEN/ purple (20A)   +   ignition harness 

Starter  RED / lt. blue   +   ignition harness        
Ignition  dk. blue/lt. green   +   ignition harness         
Accessory  BLACK/ lt. green   +   ignition harness         
Keysense  BLACK/ pink   +   ignition harness 
Power Lock  pink / YELLOW   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 9  
Power Unlock  pink/lt. green   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 1 
Parking Lights+  brown   +   switch or BCM, blue plug, pin 6 
Reverse Light  BLACK/ pink   +   DKP, gray plug, pin 13 
Door Trigger  BLACK/ yel (L), BLACK/ pink (R)   -   DKP, gray plug, pins 22, 23 
Notes: The wiring above is for vehicles without keyless entry. Vehicles with keyless entry,
 the door trigger wires are found at the BCM, green plug.
The LF door trigger is BLACK / YELLOW in pin 4.
The RF door trigger is BLACK/ pink in pin 5. The LR door trigger is BLACK/ lt. blue in pin 12.
The RR door trigger is BLACK/ white in pin 13. Use all wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision  BLACK/ lt. blue   +   DKP, gray plug, pin 6 
Trunk/Hatch Pin  N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm  N/A       
Factory Alarm Disarm  N/A       
Disarm No Unlock  N/A
       
Tachometer  NOT RED / lt. green or red   ac   any ignition coil or fuel injector      
Brake Wire  lt. green   +   brake pedal switch 
Parking Brake  lt. GREEN/ red   -   parking brake switch 
Horn Trigger  dk. blue   -   switch or BCM, blue plug, pin 12 
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is on the driver side rear cabin wall.
Memory Seat 1  BROWN / lt. green   -   memory seat switch on seat 
Memory Seat 2  BLACK/ orange   -   memory seat switch on seat    
 Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass  Required:
Yes Type:
SecuriLock
Part #: 1100F
Alternate Part1 #: 1100X
Alternate Part2 #: 556SW
Alternate Part3 #: 556UW
Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part5 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models. When using the 1100X, a software change to 1100FM is needed.
 Smart Starter Kill Relays: Relay Type:
Starter Relay Location:
Underdash, Passenger side fusebox, #1
Part #: 6401A
Notes: Cycle key slow during programming or customer over ride 

buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2006 at 11:11 PM / IP Logged  

A reference for the wake-up of the GEM module :   http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/20671_F-SERIES-LIGHT-DUTY_FORD%20GEM%20WAKE%20UP%20DIAGRAM.pdf

Directed also has a diagram similar to this but i only have a printout and can't find it online. I'll follow those steps to see if i have a factory alarm. I have everything wired up except for the door triggers and still can't get the doors to unlock even though i have the correct unlock wire. I think it has to do with the GEM module sleeping and i need to locate the correct Driver Door Ajar wire. I found one in the harness that runs up the kickpanel to the dash but it is not the correct wire from what i can tell. Is the door ajar wires hot when door is open and 0V when doors are closed? Or are they a grounding thing like the door locks?

2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 1:22 AM / IP Logged  

Although it MIGHT be possible that the GEM needs a wake up.. I have no info stating that needs to be done on the f150 after 02-03. However, the way to check is simple...

The system should lock AND unlock regardless. Once you get the doorlocks working properly IF after a few minutes the unlock stops working..you would need to wake up the GEM. Do so as per the directions. The following link will take you to DEI's diagram to wake up GEM (although it only lists 02-03 for f 150.).it also tells you the colors..where to find the wires..and how to properly test for the door ajar wire.

http://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1093.pdf

Ok...now if  you connected to the proper door unlock wire (Power Unlock  pink/lt. green   -   DKP or BCM, green plug, pin 1 ) the doors should unlock when that wire gets a negative pulse. Even if the GEM needs a wake up..they should still unlock when you test the system..unless you lock and wait too long. If the doors do not unlock you must do the basic troubleshooting procedures.....

make sure you are on the right vehicle wire...make sure you are connected to the right alarm wire..make sure the connections are solid...and verify that the alarm brain is putting out a negative pulse when you press unlock on the remote...and if so is the - signal making it to the vehicle unlock wire. Use a meter... that test will take under a minute.

If you need to test for the door ajar wire (which I HIGHLY doubt) it should read negative when the door is closed, pulse to positive when the door is open..and return back to negative.

Good Luck

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 1:39 AM / IP Logged  

Also..this might work..I think I have done this to wake up GEM's before..all that needs to heppen is the door to open so this simple 1 relay circuit will "fake" the vehicle into thinking the door has opened..hence waking up the bcm. But make sure to check first that you need to wake up the BCM or you are wasting time.

2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips? - Page 3 -- posted image.

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 1:44 AM / IP Logged  

Holy cow..what happened?   anyhoo heres a link to the same diagram..I don't know whats up. also you might not have to use the relay..try it without it first if it needs GEM wake up. what you will do is instead of connecting the 2nd diode to 85 on the relay...try conecting the diode straight to the door trigger (wire that 87 was going to.)

154_bcm_wakeup.jpg

buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2006 at 12:13 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, so i followed the directions to test if the GEM module actually goes to sleep and apparently it does NOT. So i don't need to wake up the GEM module. I am still having problems with it unlocking the doors. Does anyone know of a way to test the output of the unlock wire coming from the Scytek module and if it has enough signal to trigger the unlock factory wire? I'm at a loss trying to figure this out. I know i've tapped the correct wire cause i grounded the connection and it unlocked the doors.
I've tried messing with the features in the programming of the module. There is a choice between single and double pulse, and there is a pulse length choice of 1 or 3 or 0.3 seconds. I've tried them all.
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
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