06 mazda3 gs, alarm/remote start

Sorry no tach input wire. Big dog i pm'd u in more detail about my probs.For everyone else, i wired it up as per the instructions and i can hear the alarm system trying to crank the car, like i can hear clicking but no actual cranking from the starter or engine. My alarm says that in order for me to remote start the car i need to have it in "arm" mode. Well, when i do that and try to follow the programming instructions i trigger my alarm system as soon as i put the keys in the ignition.Is that maybe why i can't program this bloody thing properly?Please help...i've got over 20 wires or so at large lengths just dangling by my foot while i gotta drive to work. :(

Can someone tell me what the Air Con wire in this wiring diagram is for? i didn't hookit up but i thought it might be used for something. Please some explain its purpose or what i could possibly use it for.Thank you.

It's a second ignition wire if your vehicle has more than one ignition circuit. Some cars split them up and the one ignition powers up the computer fuel pump and the airconditioner is on a different circuit.

You don't need it as a second ignition but is it able to be programmed as a second accessory. As you can see by this schematic you have two accessory wires. The difference between the ignition and accessory is that ignition stays hot through crank and accessory is hot on turn on and run and shuts off during crank. 12volts red (30A), BLACK/ red (30A)+ ignition harness Starter gray/black   +   ignition harness     Second Starter N/A           Ignition GREEN/ YELLOW   +   ignition harness     Second Ignition N/A           Third Ignition N/A           Accessory pink / YELLOW   +   ignition harness     Second Accessory yellow   +   ignition harness     Keysense RED / black   +   ignition harness     Power Lock GREEN/ red   -   driver kick, door harness    Power Unlock same as power lock wire           Lock Motor yellow/black   5wi driver kick, door harness     Unlock Motor WHITE/ black   5wi driver kick, door harness     Parking Lights+ ORANGE / white (L), orange (R)   +   passenger kick, harness to rear     Parking Lights- BLACK/ white   -   headlight switch     Hazards BLACK/ orange   -   hazard switch     Turn Signal(L) blue   +   passenger kick, harness to rear     Turn Signal(R) blue/red   +   passenger kick, harness to rear     Reverse Light GREEN/ orange or GREEN/ black   +   passenger kick, harness to rear     Door Trigger see notes   -   passenger kick, harness to rear    Dome Supervision BLACK/ blue to BLACK/ red   -   passenger kick, harness to rear     Trunk/Hatch Pin BLACK/ red or BLACK/ blue   -   passenger kick or light in trunk     Hood Pin BLACK / YELLOW   -   hood pin switch     Trunk/Hatch Release N/A           Power Sliding Door N/A           Factory Alarm Arm BLACK/ blue   -   driver kick, door harness    Factory Alarm Disarm BLACK/ white   -   driver kick, door harness    Disarm No Unlock             Tachometer NOT GREEN/ stripe   ac   any ignition coil or fuel injector     Wait to start N/A           Brake Wire RED / white   +   brake pedal switch     Parking Brake BLACK/ lt. green   -   parking brake switch     Horn Trigger black   -   horn switch     Memory Seat 1 N/A           Memory Seat 2 N/A           Memory Seat 3 N/A

humm....hook like so.....85 to the negitive output from the alarm (make sure that it is not a latching output or you will have a constant negitive trigger going to your relay which will keep the trunk acuator enguaged until you re-click the alarms button again...thus you not being able to close the trunk)  86 to 12volt constant.  30 to the acuator , 87a not used, and 87 to 12volt constant.Where theres is a wire there's a way.

hmm..i'm not sure if thats what i want but i thought that when you energize a actuator is either closes all the way or opens all the way. Am i wrong? Does hooking it up to a relay mak