voltage problems

Ok, well to start i've got a Kenwood Kac X812D Amp and 2 Alpine Type R Dual 4ohm subs wired to 4ohm

I was having problems with them before they were blowing fuses anytime i would turn them up, I found out it was a voltage problem so i installed a second battery and it cured the problem 100%

So i figured now that i got that cured i would wire them the way i wanted to (down to put a 1ohm load on the amp) i wired them just like here https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=42 the top one, they work Very well until i turn them up. The gain is set to 1/2 and subwoofer setting on the deck is at 0

With the new battery installed it is still fluxuating and blowing fuses...  Could this be a voltage problem? I am using all 4 gauge wire.

Thanks,

Let me get this straight.... from what i'm reading, you put a DMM on the ilne to the amp, and saw 12.9 and you think there's no way it could blow the fuse, because it's 17.1 away from 30??

Give me a link to the specs on this amp. From where I stand, this is not a voltage problem. There's nothing wrong with a voltage of 12.9. Infact, it's quite normal. The fuse you are blowing, is it the onboard fuse in the amp, or is this fuse inserted in the power line coming to the amp.

It could be a voltage problem, but there's about 200 things i'd look at before that. Get me a link to the specs on your amp. Audioman2007 is right, i'm pretty sure a 2nd battery is not the appropriate solution. Let's figure out what your problem really is.

I don't wanna sound like a jerk, but what is your level of skill in car audio. Are you new to this, is your friend telling you this is the problem, or what?

while i'm sitting here wormy wants you to do something real quick.... he'll be on the internet in a second...

go to that ohm calculator and plug in the way you plugged up your subs... go visibly look at your connections to make sure you type it in right.

cause you may have inadvertantly wired a 16 ohm load to your amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-l3SmgpMYvZ8/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&tab=morephotos&pi=3&i=113kacx812&display=L#Tab

found your amp, and probably your problem.... lemme guess, you're burning the in-line fuse....

there's 2 30 amp fuses on the side of your amplifier.... you need a 60 amp fuse in line..... give that a shot

haemphyst

true, thank you  wormy for making me look silly. I was thinking the same thing, but i was on the phone with him, and that was one of the questions he had. he does the numbers, I put it in and make it sound right. I'm sure he had some reason for asking...

i'll make him show his face and give an answer...

anywho, your thought... prolly has a 30 amp fuse in line to a 60 amp amplifier?

Good point on the idea that a 16 ohm load want blow a 30 amp fuse, but that's not my point and not the ohm load that I had in mind.  The amplifier will produce more power with less heat at lower impedance.  Typically, the reason why most amatuers clip amplifiers is because they think that the subs should be louder.  They turn the subs up until they sound like what they want them to.  Typically, on a typical mono block, the 1 ohm load will achieve a louder sound than the 4 ohm and 16 ohm load.  To be anywhere near as loud, you would have to turn the gain up higher to match the output.  This of course will most likely lead to clipping if they turn the gains up far enough.  I'm not positive about this idea and I definately haven't done any testing, but hypothetically speaking, I believe that the amplifier will be hotter at 4 ohms when producing 250 Watts than it will be at 1 ohm when producing 250 Watts.  The heat factor will most likely increase once the amplifier begins clipping.  I'm not saying he's only putting out 250 Watts.  I actually believe the amplifier is producing 774 Watts and outputting 533.  I don't know that that is what he is actually managing, but probably a descent, random approximation...lol.  If he will unplug the speaker wire at the amplifier and test the system while it is playing at the exact points the speaker wire connects to the amplifier, then I can help.  I seriously recommend connecting the amplifier at 1 ohm.  I could be wrong...correction, I probably am wrong after thinking about it, but 500 watts at 1 ohm will run the amplifier a little cooler and therefore using a little less amperage, than at 4 ohms.  I actually think I might be wrong...lol.  Help me please.  *sigh*

I was suppose to be asleep three hours ago jazzcustoms131.  Thanks for making me stay up to think!

500 Watts at 4 ohms still should be a sufficient amperage to cause the fuse to blow though.  Use a bigger fuse in-line to the amplifier.  Tell me the voltage that the amplifier is putting out utilizing the method that I laid out for you, and I will tell you what size fuse to use.  In fact, we can probably tell you what voltage to turn your gains to, as well as what fuse size to use, if you would learn how to set the gains by that method I laid out for you.  Just don't be an idiot like me and think that you can set it at the top voltage that the multimeter displays.

By the way, haemphyst, is it possible for me to purchase a multimeter that only reads peak voltages?  Let me guess, you would prefer I just give in and buy an Oscilloscope...lol.  I will when my girlfriend lets me...lol.  We have to buy her a car first, so it may be awhile.  Don't even rub it in jazzcustoms131!