add on hood pin switches

I'm really starting to get sick and tired of fighting with mounting an aftermarket pin style hood pin. It seems like finding the location, mounting, running wires, adjusting, etc is taking up 1/2 the time of the entire install. So what are all you professional installers using on a daily basis? I was thinking mercury switch but at what hill angle would the switch see an open hood. I don't want my customers coming back because they have a slight angle to their driveway and its not allowing the remote start to work. I also though about possibly a magnetic reed, but I'm not quite sure how it would work with the metal.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I use the pin but I also use ball bearing type switches. That mount to the hood and adjust them so they trigger when the hood if fully openIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Kenny, the mods should merge this with the post headed Mercury Switch! I'm still old school, carefully pick your position, use a Harrison switch, drown everything in moisture retardant, loom up and heatshrink seal over the (fully insulated) faston (i.e. 1/4"-6mm "Lucar" as we call 'em). Guaranteed about 5 years that way. 9 out of 10 times it's the hood shut line, next to a rubber buffer, gives you your length.

Another 2 cents...

The standard hood pin switches are a pain.  Some customers don't want a hole drilled under the hood due

to rust, etc.  Taking the time to fabricate a stainless steel bracket, installed in a "high & dry" area,is time consuming. 

Mercury tilt switches ( and the ball bearing equivalents ) are a better choice but have a few draw-backs

of their own.  They could be a problem on steep hills and for an alarm system, don't trigger as soon as the hood starts to raise. 

I checked on magnetic reed switches some time ago and while they solve most of the problems listed have

two draw backs.  One is most of the magnetic reed switches are the N.C. type, so investigate thoroughly.  On the newer aftermarket systems that can be programmed for N.C. switches, this isn't a big deal anymore.  The other factor is cost.  Adding an extra ~$9 to each install does cut down on your profit margin but return customers and good word of mouth could easily negate the extra expense.

Soldering is fun!

By the way that photo on the other post looks like someone's Lexus! I keep seeing the damn things everywhere!

Same color but actually a 2010 Dodge Caravan I did a few fews ago.   I'm making my own tilt switches now, about 55 cents each.

Re- the SC430 : There is money to be made on them.  Easy install and a lot of "got to have it" bling factor for the customers.

Soldering is fun!

Still too expensive over here, also no disrespect to "er inside" (with a cookney accent) but most of the owners here are 55+ If you look on the Metra website, switches the four I use are all there and they show tilt and magnetic. They made 200 of my car some with an MG badge using the 4.6 V8 from the Mustang, nice till I saw the price, apparently a collectors car.

I might pick up a bunch of the pin switches with the 'flange' once my account with Metra gets set up. Then I have a few more options for the pin.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Yes, Metra shows a photo of 5, DEI (Europe) supply the second left for Clifford with the rubber boot and without for Viper (says it all) plus the two far right. I need the far left for the occasional vehicle.

And the one to avoid is the DEI 507 series of tilt switches, more falsies than American Pie.