Power from Alternator

Is it ok to get your power for your amp from the Alternator.Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less

That is basically what you're doing with it wired to the battery... The alternator power wires go straight to the battery...    Keep your amplifier connected to the battery.~wayland

I think thats about the only way to get power for your amp. Besides a generator in the trunk.Nik

Jeeputer Progress

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Check it out.

I'm very aware of how the battery/starter/alternator interact now. But I haven't ever heard of anyone ever connecting it directly to the battery.1998 Monte Carlo w/

Eclipse CD8454

2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C

2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369

1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel

2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

hoaxs wrote: Is it ok to get your power for your amp from the Alternator.

Yes, but a CONDITIONAL yes. Your chances of getting noise are MUCH higher doing this. The battery is NOT ONLY a reserve for when the alternator cannot keep up, (and we all know this is a condition that should never happen, if your alternator is up to the task) but it is a filter as well. This is why you should get your power from the positive battery post.

Master Asylum wrote: I'm very aware of how the battery/starter/alternator interact now. But I haven't ever heard of anyone ever connecting it directly to the battery.

Well, now you have. My alternator output post is wire DIRECTLY to my battery through a #4 cable, with a 150A fuse and a 150A shunt resistor, for my current monitor in the dash. I was forced into this, because there was NO WAY a #4 cable was going to be able to be connected to my primary fuse block. The alternator output in MOST cars today goes to a primary fuse block under the hood, where all of the accessories are tapped, with a single lead running out to the battery for charging purposes. When I wired directly to the battery, I also upgraded the lead that was FROM the fuse block to a #8 with custom made high current capable terminals. This then made it the TO the fuse block cable. It is still connected to the battery, throught the big ol' Monster terminals that I installed, and actually, most of my accessories now run better. Probably, this is due to the higher current path of a #8, rather than the #10 that comes with the car. Basically what I am saying, is it CAN be done, but usually there is a great deal of effort to do so. If you are willing to go to this effort, and understand COMPLETELY what you are doing first, go for it...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

The completely understanding part is the concern I have. Electrical systems are dangerous if one bad faulty move is made and can result in a new car at your expense. Just don't think anyone should be advising people to do it on here. :)1998 Monte Carlo w/

Eclipse CD8454

2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C

2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369

1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel

2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

If you return that pos alterstart i can get you about a 5% discount on a mechman alt , which by the way they test before they ship....2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

thanks for the help guys, the only reason i ask is because ran wire for one of my friends and he didn't have enough power wire to get to the battery so i just hooked it up to the ALT.  I relised it wasn't going to harm anything but just wanted to double check.Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less