python 5000 won't start

Hey guys!  I could really use some help. I have done installs (years ago, before databus immobilizers) however I can't get a start on this install. Details below:

Vehicle: 2007 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 4-door

Automatic Transmission

Remote Start/Alarm: Python PS5000 with SmartStart

Immobilizer: FLCAN flashed to FLC-AL(DL)-CH5(3.1) firmwareInstall Guide: FLC-AL(DL)-CH5

I know that the FLCAN is flashed properly and it did learn the key (it appears)

ONE ISSUE: the first time I wired it up I didn't notice that the FLCAN wanted a + Starter input and the Python had a - Starter output. I mistakenly tied these together at first. Of course I suspect this as the root cause to my current issue.

Other things I have wired up as "maybe's"

Using 2nd status/defogger output on the Python as the GWR input on the FLCAN

Wired the Neutral Safety straight to groundI have wired the ignition wires on the FLCAN as the guide recommends, including a diode.I have not programmed anything on the Python, I am using the default settings (Do I have to program it for Automatic Transmission)I have not wired up ANY of the remote relay pack (assuming the start function is handled by the FLCAN)I have now wired the nigative output of the Python to a relay that drives a positive to the FLCAN

When I hit the start on the keychain it does the following:

1) deactivates the factory alarm2) activates the relay (to send + start to the FLCAN)3) turns off the relay4) cycles through turning the relay again...

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Is the starter relay required?

One more thing. The canh and canl are supposed to be WHITE/ black and WHITE/ blue but they were WHITE/ green and WHITE/ blue. No doubt in my mind that they were the right ones though. They were twisted and connected to the correct pins on the lock cylinder plug. Just thought that it was odd and worth mentioning in case someone else reads this thread trying to do a similar install. Tomorrow I will check the ignition output wire from the flcan to the cylinder for +12v. And plug up the satellite relay pack and see if it tries to activate the purple starter relay when I captivate the start sequence.

I went out this morning and got every connection and wrote it down. I will list all information below. I also checked the ignition (+) pink/white wire at the keyswitch for 12v+ when the PS5000 relay clicks showing that it is trying to start, but I am not getting any voltage there. Any ideas?

Vehicle: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 4-door

Transmission: AutomaticOther: DOES HAVE factory alarm system

Security System/Remote Start Module: Python PS5000 SmartStart system

Immobilizer Bypass: FLCAN flashed with firmware FLC AL(DL) CH5(3.1)Wiring: Uses the Type 3 Wiring DiagramFlashed for this vehicle, automatic transmission, standard wiring (not D2D)FLCAN Install instruction are located at the bestbuy weblink bbweblink /product/product/product_id/51 under install guides (I can post a link if that is allowed here, but just add www and com to the bbweblink part and it’ll come up)

All wiring connections are soldered and heat shrinked except 12V+ and Grounds (temporary while troubleshooting)

Issue: Remote start function does not work. I can press remote start and the system will disarm the alarm, and the starter input relay I have wired up to send 12v+ to the FLCAN starter input clicks, so I know the PS5000 is trying to start the vehicle, but the vehicle does not crank. The Pink/White Ignition (+) at the keyswitch does NOT get any power and the “key on” chimes to not come on. Is there an issue with any of the connections below? I do have a multimeter.

FLCAN Wire connections made:

WHITE/ Black – ignition (+) output  to Pink/White pin 3 on keyswitch connectorWHITE/ Red – Ignition Status (+) output to diode () to Pink output of FLCAN which is also connected to Yellow wire on remote starter relay pack ribbon cable (+ ignition input to remote start)White – 12v+ connected to Red Pin 5 on keyswitch connectorYellow/Black – Door status (-) output to alarm Green Door Status (-) input on harness H1Yellow/Red – Trunk status (-) output to alarm Blue Trunk Status (-) input on H1 HarnessYellow – MUX  to PURPLE / brown pin 1 on keyswitch connectorBROWN / Red – CanH to WHITE/ Green pin 6 on keyswitch connector <I know the paperwork says this should be WHITE/ black, but it isn’t. This one is also twisted with the WHITE/ Blue CanL wire)BROWN / Yellow – CanL to WHITE/ Blue Pin 7 on the keyswitch connectorOrange – Brake (+) output to Brown (+) brake shutdown input in harness H3Pink – Ignition (+) input to yellow (+) ignition input to remote start on the remote start ribbon cableBlue/White – GWR (-) input to Blue/White (-) 2nd status output on harness H3Black – Ground to common groundRed – 12v(+) to battery 12V+GREEN/ Black – Lock/arm (-) input to GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm on Harness H2Blue/Black – Unlock/disarm (-) to GREEN/ Black (-) factory alarm disarm on Harness H2RED / White – Trunk (-) input not connected (the jeep does not have a trunk to open)BLACK/ White – Starter (+) input to 12v+ from a relay that is triggered off of Pink (-) ignition trigger in the starter relay ribbon cable. This relay does click when I try to remote start but the vehicle does not try to start. PURPLE / White – Tach (AC) Output to Violet/White tachometer input on harness H3No other connections are made on the FLCAN

Python PS5000/Remote Starter connections

 H4 Harness – Not connectedDoor Lock Harness – Not connected

H2 Harness –

Light GREEN/ Black (-) Factory alarm disarm to FLCAN  (see above)GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm to FLCAN (see above)No other H2 Wires are connected

Remote Start ribbon cable

Yellow (+) ignition input to remote start to FLCAN (the ignition status output <via diode> and the ignition input)Pink (-) ignition trigger to a relay that sends 12V+ to the FLCAN Starter (+) input BLACK/ White wireNo other ribbon cable connections are made Remote Relay Pack – No connections made to the high current relays

H1 Harness –

Red 12V constant input to battery 12V+Brown Siren output to siren (+)Black (-) ground to common GroundBlue (-) trunk trigger input to FLCANGreen (-) Door Trigger Input to FLCANNo other connections made in Harness H1 (including WHITE/ blue activation input)

H3 Harness –

BLACK/ white neutral safety switch to toggle switch then groundViolet/White Tach input to FLCANBrown (+) brake shutdown input to FLCANGray Hood Pin shutdown to hood pin switchBlue/White 2nd  Status/defogger output to GWR on FLCAN

Sorry to keep adding to this. But I think this info may help. In looking at the flcan document it shows that for the wranglers the flcan do es not have Brake pedal status output. I know that the remote start needs that to know when to shutdown. It also does not support "RAP shutdown control". Does support mug starter control though.

ill start off by saying ive never installed a python 5000 but im more than familiar with DEI alarms so bare with me if end up taking about wires or features that dont exist on that particular alarm. the FLCAN is a beast, i use it all the time but i use it with audiovox alarms which support D2D installation. they make an extra harness that you can buy for chrysler vehicles that does all of the wiring for you too so with that being said the FLCAN should be able to do everything for you without using any extra parts although i think the parking lights might need a relay still depending on the firmware. ok, when you remote start, do the lights on the dash act exactly like they do when you start with the key? this is one of the easiest ways to find out if the bypass is not activating a wire correctly. also, if you use the 2nd status as GWR then i think it needs to be programmed as such. but why use this wire at all? use the actual GWR. also for testing purposes i would turn the engine checking feature off on the alarm. turning this feature off will stop the alarm from looking for a tach signal and will make it just crank the starter based on the crank time you set it for. it will also stop it from not starting based on a faulty tach signal eliminating one possible cause of failure. also if im not mistaken, the large gauge red wires from the relay pack still need to be powered up for any of the wires from the relay pack to work. the + starter input on the FLCAN needs to be wired to the +starter output from the relay pack so it can know when to crank the starter through the MUX wire, and without the red wires being powered up the + starter output will not send power to the FLCAN to tell it to crank. why would you send an ignition power feed to the starter input of the FLCAN? is this how it tells you to wire it because im confused by this? try those out and tell me what you get.

First off, thank you so very much for the help. While I am pretty smart do not hesitate to dumb it down, it won't offend me. I am sure that this is something that I will go "duh" about later on. The remote start sequence shuts down the factory alarm (or unlocks the doors) and then does nothing (no accessory power, no dash lights, no crank) and then re-activates the factory system (or re-locks the doors). I used the second status output because the first status ouput was in the ribbon harness and I didn't want to split that and splic into it at first. Later I had to anyway, so it isn't a big deal at is time so I will hook gwr to status output. I will try to turn the tach sensing feature off, however I did go through the tach learning process on the python and it worked successfully. So I don't think that is the problem. However as you say, it will eliminate one possible cause. I think I tried hooking power to the relay pack, but that didn't help. I will try again for confimration. As for the way it is wired, that is what the instructions had. It has a positive 12v ignition status going through a diode (allowing flow out) to the starter ignition in AND the flcan starter ignition in.

"WHITE/ Red – Ignition Status (+) output to diode () to Pink output of FLCAN which is also connected to Yellow wire on remote starter relay pack ribbon cable (+ ignition input to remote start)" this ignition status wire is for alarm purposes, it should be hooked to the ignition input of the alarm which normally would be the large gauge pink wire on the relay pack. why they would tell you that this needs to be hooked to the + starter input of the FLCAN is confusing me. also why is there two separate ignition outputs from the FLCAN? "BLACK/ White – Starter (+) input to 12v+ from a relay that is triggered off of Pink (-) ignition trigger in the starter relay ribbon cable. This relay does click when I try to remote start but the vehicle does not try to start. " i truly believe this is your problem because you are giving the FLCAN conflicting information by driving this with an ignition. the chrysler ignition system is resistance based through the MUX wire. the MUX wire is the ACC and the starter wire depending on the resistance you send to it. the bypass controls this function but you are telling the bypass to send BOTH acc AND starter resistances to the MUX wire at the same time and when you combine these resistances you get something totally different so the car doesnt know what to do. this is my best theory. to fix it you need to drive your relay from the - starter output in the ribbon cable which is probably purple but dont quote me on that. once you do that the ignition sequence will be correct and it should at least crank.

One mistake in my post is that the (+) ignition status output is going thru the diode to a pink ignition input on the flcan and an ignition input on the remote starter brain. So it is an output going to two inputs. Odd that the flcan would need to send a signal to it's own input instead of handling that internally. Unfortunately I won't be able to try any of this until tomorrow. I am out of town for the holiday right now. I will post my findings tomorrow when I get back home.

In looking this over, orange in the ribbon cable to the starter pack is the accessory trigger and it isn't hooked up to anything as I recall. That would explain why the dash isn't powering up. I assumed that the flcan would power the dash and then the starter as part of it's startup sequence. I will double check the instructions to ensure that there is no accessory (+) input on the flcan.

i dont think the FLCAN needs anything except status and starter input. status should turn on the ignitions and acc's and the starter signal should make the FLCAN switch between acc and start on the MUX wire.