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2010 acura tsx viper 4704


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nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: May 09, 2013 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
I am doing my first remote starter install and I would like someone to take a look at my wiring plan. I am comfortable soldering and pulling the car apart, my only real concern is what the purpose of the wires are and how I am interpreting the instructions. I have the wiring diagram below, I prioritized information first on the Viper wiring, then put the information on the iDataLink then the TSX has the least amount of information on it. If anyone has any information, suggestions or thinks I should use different equipment let me know.
What gauge wire should I use for the install? Keep in mind I will be using a common 12V and ground, also I will be using my own wire and relay for the starter.
All relays have N400X diode between 85 and 86, stripe towards positive 86.
2010 Acura TSX Wiring
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~122599
Viper 4704 manual
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CDIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.12voltdistributors.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F09%2FViper_4704V_Installation_Guide.pdf&ei=QUaMUYeYLIONygHVxYDABg&usg=AFQjCNGtTXubc4jN4DNGyae3aUYKYn8LZw&sig2=rZIgX4ZdYtsDIYyFCb2Z_A&bvm=bv.46340616,d.aWc
iDataLink ADS-AL CA
http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA3/ADS-AL(DL)-HA3-EN_20130305.pdf
TSX
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 2, 12V Constant, 50 amp:
Inline 50 amp fuse then use for all 12V
Can I use this for all 12V in the install?
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 1, YELLOW (+), STARTER:
Cut wire, key side to 87a, car side to 30
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 5, BLUE (+), IGNITION 1:
To Viper
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 3, ORANGE (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1:
To viper
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4, RED (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2:
To viper with flex relay
Immobilizer , pin 2,,Ignition +:
To iDataLink
Immobilizer , pin 3,Dark Blue,CAN low:
To iDataLink
Immobilizer , pin 4,Pink,CAN high:
To iDataLink
Immobilizer , pin 6,Green,Immobilizer Data:
To iDataLink
HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11, GRAY (-), PARKING LIGHTS ( - ):
To viper
Drivers dash fuse box, 33 pin plug, pin 23, Lt Green, Horn:
To viper
Drives fuse box, 20 pin plug, pin 3, Lt Green, Trunk:
To Trunk relay, 30
Create a ground wire with a bolt
Viper 4704
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1,RED,(+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT:
To 12V
H1/2,BLACK,(-) CHASSIS GROUND:
To: Ground
H1/3,BROWN,(-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT:
To Drivers dash fuse box, 33 pin plug, pin 23,Lt Green
H1/4,WHITE/ BROWN,LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relayH1/:
H1/5,WHITE,PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY:
To HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11,GRAY (-),PARKING LIGHTS ( - )
H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:
Starter relay 85
Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1,PNK/WHITE,(-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT:
H2/2,BLACK/ WHITE,(-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT:
To iDataLink 10/9, Green, E-Brake Status - Output
H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT:
To defog relay, pin 85
Does this latch or pulse?
H2/4,GREEN/ BLACK ,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/4,Brown,Disarm - input
H2/5,RED / WHITE,(-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT:
To Trunk relay, pin 85
H2/6,GREEN,(-) DOOR INPUT*:
To iDataLink 3/2,Yellow/Black, Door Status - Output
Is iDataLink NC or NO?
H2/7,BLACK / YELLOW,(-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT:
H2/8,EMPTY,------------------------------------:
H2/9,DARK BLUE,(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 4/1,Blue/White, GWR - input
Does this ground before ignition? What is menu 3/11 saying? I copied it below the wiring diagrams.
H2/10,PINK,(-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT:
H2/11,WHITE/ BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT:
H2/12,VIOLET,(+) DOOR INPUT:
H2/13,WHITE/ VIOLET,(-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT:
H2/14,VIOLET/BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT:
H2/15,ORANGE / BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT:
H2/16,BROWN,(+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT:
To iDataLink 6/2,Grey/White, Brake + Output
H2/17,GRAY,(-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO:
To iDataLink,3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output
Should this be NC or NO for iDataLink?
H2/18,VIOLET / YELLOW,(-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT:
Clutch relay, pin 85
H2/19,BLUE**,FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity):
H2/20,GRAY/BLACK ,(-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT:
H2/21,WHITE/ BLUE,ACTIVATION INPUT:
H2/22,ORANGE,(-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT:
H2/23,VIOLET/WHITE,TACHOMETER INPUT:
To iDataLink 10/10,PURPLE / White, Tach (AC) - Output:
H2/24,GREEN / WHITE,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/1,GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input
Not confident I need to do this
Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1,PINK,(+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 5,BLUE (+) ,IGNITION 1
H3/2,RED / WHITE,+12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT:
To 12V
H3/3,ORANGE,(+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 3 ,ORANGE (+) , ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1
H3/4,VIOLET,(+) STARTER OUTPUT:
To Starter relay, car side, pin 30
H3/5,RED,+12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT:
To 12V
H3/6,PINK/WHITE,IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4 ,RED (+) , ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2
Program flex relay to close with accessory
H3/7,PINK/BLACK,FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY:
H3/8,RED / BLACK,+12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT:
To 12V
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1,BLUE,(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/2,Blue/Black,Unlock - input
2,EMPTY,NOT USED:
3,GREEN ,(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/1, GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input
iDataLink (counterclockwise, top left corner)
4/1,Blue/White,GWR - input:
To Viper, H2/9, Status Output
Is this right? The iDataLink needs ground before ignition.
4/2
4/3,Black,Ground:
To Ground
4/4,Red,12V+:
12V
10/1,GREEN/ Black,Lock/Arm - input:
To Viper
10/2,Blue/Black,Unlock - input:
To Viper
10/3,RED / White,Trunk - input
10/4,Brown,Disarm - input
To Viper
10/5,Purple / YELLOW,Left Sliding Door - Input:
10/6,PURPLE / Black,2 Possible Applications:
10/7
10/8,BLACK/ White,Starter + input:
To Starter relay, car side, pin 30
10/9,Green,E-Brake Status - Output:
To Viper
10/10,PURPLE / White,Tach (AC) - Output:
To Viper
6/1:
6/2,Grey/White,Brake + Output:
To Viper
6/3:
6/4:
6/5:
6/6:
7/1,Pink,Ignition + input:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 2,,Ignition +
7/2:
7/3:
7/4:
7/5,ORANGE / Black,Key data:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 6,Green,Immobilizer Data
7/6,BROWN / Yellow,CanL:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 3,Dark Blue,CAN low
7/7,BROWN / Red,CanH:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 4,Pink,CAN high
3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output:
To Viper
3/2,Yellow/Red,Trunk Status - Output:
3/2,Yellow/Black,Door Status - Output:
To Viper
3/1,White,Ground -:
To Ground
3/2:
3/3,WHITE/ Black,Output -:
iDataLink mentions connecting to drivers door pin to turn off headlamp, why? How does it work?
Clutch Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/18,VIOLET / YELLOW,(-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
86 - Positive:
12V
30 - Common:
Clutch switch
87A - NC:
87 - NO:
Clutch switch
Assuming NO switch
Starter Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
86 - Positive:
To Viper H3/1,PINK,(+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
30 - Common:
Car side starter wire
87A - NC:
Key side starter wire
87 - NO:
Rear Defrost Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
86 - Positive:
12V
30 - Common:
Defrost button
87A - NC:
87 - NO:
Defrost button
Trunk Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/5,RED / WHITE,(-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
86 - Positive:
12V
30 - Common:
Ground:
Assuming the wire needs ground, will test
87A - NC:
87 - NO:
To TSX Drivers fuse box, 20 pin plug, pin 3,Lt Green,Trunk
     
I'm also confused about this option in the Viper. It is referring to wire H2/9 but then it is referring to the rear defogger which is H2/3. I would like some guidance on using H2/9, H2/3 and the GWR input on the iDataLink. The iDataLink needs ground when running before the ignition.
11. Status 2 Output (Dark Blue H2/9 wire)
1. Status: the output will activate before the ignition outputs turn on, and de-activate after they turn off
during remote start
2. Latch rear defogger: the output activates 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature is below
55F. It turns off after 10 minutes or upon remote start off
3. Pulse rear defogger: the output activates (for 800mS) 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature
is below 55F.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 11, 2013 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged  

Wow!  Very good job. 2010 acura tsx viper 4704 -- posted image.   You did your home work on this.

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 2, 12V Constant, 50 amp:

Inline 50 amp fuse then use for all 12V
Can I use this for all 12V in the install?    Yes

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4, RED (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2:

To viper with flex relay      ***Set Viper Flex Relay to ACC2   Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2

HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11, GRAY (-), PARKING LIGHTS ( - ):

To viper    ***Set Viper Jumper/Fuse to (-)

Drives fuse box, 20 pin Lt Green Plug plug, Pink wire @ pin 3, , Trunk:

To Trunk relay, 30          Don't think you will need a relay.

H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:

Starter relay 85    Also see Viper programming Menu 3, Item 13 for Anit-Grind

H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT:

To defog relay, pin 85
Does this latch or pulse?   See Viper Menu 3. Item 11, Option 2
Rear Defrost  BROWN / WHITE (-) LATCHED  DRIVER FUSE BOX, GREEN 33 PIN CONNECTOR, PIN #6

H2/6,GREEN,(-) DOOR INPUT*:

To iDataLink 3/2,Yellow/Black, Door Status - Output
Is iDataLink NC or NO?    N.O. - just like normal door triggers

H2/9,DARK BLUE,(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT:

To iDataLink 4/1,Blue/White, GWR - input
Does this ground before ignition?    Yes
What is menu 3/11 saying?   Menu 3, Item 11 is for H2/3

H2/17,GRAY,(-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO:

To iDataLink,3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output
Should this be NC or NO for iDataLink?   N.O. - just like normal door triggers 
Signal present only if vehicle has factory hood pin.

H2/23,VIOLET/WHITE,TACHOMETER INPUT:

To iDataLink 10/10,PURPLE / White, Tach (AC) - Output:    Yes.  Manual Trans must run in Tach Mode

H2/24,GREEN / WHITE,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT:

To iDataLink 10/1,GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input
Not confident I need to do this    Correct, not needed.

iDataLink (counterclockwise, top left corner)

4/1,Blue/White,GWR - input:
To Viper, H2/9, Status Output 
The Viper has the coIs this right? The iDataLink needs ground before ignition    The Viper has the correct timing.

Bonus info for Clutch bypass :

Clutch Pedal  RED / GREEN (-) N.O.  CLUTCH SWITCH - YELLOW 2 PIN CONNECTOR PIN #1
If this is a thin wire, you might get away with just running the Vipers (-) 200mA Starter Output wire
directly to this RED / Green wire, no relay needed.

As always use a DMM to test and verify each and every wire.

Verify that the ADS AL CA is flashed with the DL HA3 firmware.  You won't get much help from either

iDatalink or Viper as a DIYer but it looks like you have a good understanding of all that is involved.

Proper planning pays big dividends....   2010 acura tsx viper 4704 -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!
nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: May 11, 2013 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:

H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:

Starter relay 85    Also see Viper programming Menu 3, Item 13 for Anit-Grind

Thanks for looking it over, I feel much more confident about the install now and am going to start purchasing equipment soon.
I am really confused how the anti grind works. I understand on the 5704 with the starter kill because you are cutting the starter wire and using an internal NC relay. How does the the anti grind interupt the starter circuit?
When I originally did this I was looking at the iDataLink Multi line because it is what came up first on their search. Does it offer any benefits over the Solo line, ADS-DLSL CA2? Both seem to need the same firmware of DL-HA3. If I buy a Solo ADS-DLSL CA2 does it always come with the proper firmware or do I need to makesure it is correct?
You mentioned that I could likely run the trunk and clutch without a relay. I'm nervous just giving it a shot because I don't want to fry the Viper. Is this a valid concern? Could I run the defogger without a relay too?
Any suggestions on gauge of wire? I am concerned with the common 12V and ground. Normally I would just match whatever I am connecting to but I want to have everything purchased before I pull anything open.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 11, 2013 at 4:17 PM / IP Logged  

Starter Kill and Anti-Grind both work on the same vehicle wire.  Starter Kill prevents the

engine from cranking when the alarm system is armed.  Anti-Grind prevents the engine
from cranking when the remote starter is ON ( the engine is already running ).

As for the iDatalink bypass module, it is an excellent choice.  However, the difficult part

is obtaining one that has been flashed ( loaded ) with the correct / desired firmware.  There
are on-line sellers that will do this for you on request ( and sometimes for an additional
charge ).   Try to get the multi ADS AL CA flashed with the DL HA3 firmware rather than the
Solo module ( same thing but more available / logical ).

Using relays for the trunk, clutch bypass, etc, will not hurt anything.  It would be extra work

and perhaps over-kill but definitely a viable option.

The Vipers' ground wire is adequate.  The White +12V constant wire at the ignition switch

harness is rated at 50A and should be fine for the demands of the 4704 and ADS AL CA.  You
can always run a direct line to the battery but that is a long run that breaches the firewall and
includes additional risks.

Soldering is fun!
nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: May 11, 2013 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  
So if I just turn on the anti grind feature it will work how I plan on wiring it up?
On the relays, I mean if I wire up the clutch directly to the viper without a relay and it turns out I should have used a relay would that hurt anything? If I can wire the defogger, clutch and trunk without a relay and I don't need one for the starter that would be nice.
dasbogie 
Silver - Posts: 514
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 30, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 13, 2013 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  
For the negative start output from the viper to the cars clutch wire, you will need to put a diode inline to protect the viper.  the rear defrost signal in the vehicle is negative so that usually means it's just switching the factory relay that's in the fusebox, so basicaly you're relaying a relay.   Like Kreg say it doesn't hurt anything but it's just a little extra work.
Advanced
nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: May 20, 2013 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  
I should wire the diode stripe towards the Viper inline right? I'm going to wire the clutch, defogger and trunk direct to the Viper. Should I wire a diode with the trunk, defogger or any of the other connections?
nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: May 28, 2013 at 8:29 PM / IP Logged  
dasbogie wrote:
For the negative start output from the viper to the cars clutch wire, you will need to put a diode inline to protect the viper.  the rear defrost signal in the vehicle is negative so that usually means it's just switching the factory relay that's in the fusebox, so basicaly you're relaying a relay.   Like Kreg say it doesn't hurt anything but it's just a little extra work.
I cut the Viper's H2/18 wire and soldered a diode inline with the stripe facing the Viper. Before I install it this weekend is this right?
Also any word on if I should do the same on the defogger, trunk, horn or parking lights?
nathan1465 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2013
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: June 01, 2013 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  
I have all the wires hooked up and triple checked. I am getting a flashing light on the idatalink but the LED on the antenna for the Viper isn't flashing. This leads me to believe the Viper isn't running. I have checked the voltage at the 6 pin main harness connector and it is getting 12 volts like it should be.
Anyone have any ideas for things to try or how to test the Viper unit at all? I'm hoping I didn't get one dead on arrival. I'm guessing it will be a pain to get resolved if so.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 02, 2013 at 4:59 AM / IP Logged  
A few thoughts :
Triple check your chassis ground wire connection. It should have a soldered-on terminal
ring and be securely fastened to a clean, solid frame ground.
Triple check that the antenna harness is completely seated at both ends.
The antenna light blinks ( blue LEDs ) when the Viper is Locked.
I believe that the newer Viper systems come with the remotes already paired so with everything
connected, a Lock button depress should make the Viper's brain click and the Parking Lights
flash once. Does that happen? If not, you could try pairing the remotes to the Viper.
Did you set the idatalink modules Install Mode ( Standard - 2 blinks ) and lock it in prior to
performing the actual bypass module to vehicle programming?   Did it program / respond
properly? Being as the iDatalink module works hand in hand with the Viper and supplies
many signals and performs several functions, if it is not programmed it will cause problems
that could appear like a Viper issue.
With a manual transmission vehicle, there are several things that must be done prior to attempting
a remote start. The Viper must be in Tach Mode and Tach Learned.   The Door Trigger Input, Brake
Input and NSS to Input to ADS AL CA Emergency Brake Output must be connected and working.
Does anything happen when you try setting Reservation Mode?
Soldering is fun!
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